New Guy here, anyone seen my paddle

[Gary Lewis]

I don't think it was deleted from the MPC, although I can check my late 80's MPC to see.

But I found this entry for the fuel sender, which has some implications:

[Gary Lewis]

I couldn't wait.  E3UZ 9H307 ID # crosses to E0UZ 9350-C part #.  And, I think I hit pay dirt:

[26ftcobraBBF]

Not sure about the sender, I never seen the guage move while on this tank.. go figure all the holes in the float. To be honest , I've given it all the time I can afford but just can't seem to decifer the electrical schematics.. something just hasn't clicked yet. I did make it all the way from always hot to hot with key in run. I've good up to the oil sending unit, but couldn't wrap my head around the relay, and transfer switch..I'm a carpenter moon lighting as a mechanic....I'm inquisitive, and read a lot about what I'm doing here, you-all have been a tremendous help.
So with that said I had a 50/50 chance here to be a parts thrower, or a troubleshooter. I think I got lucky deciding to just pull the tank and pump without verification that there was indeed power to that circuit. I couldn't run the rig, and had nobody to crank it over while I checked for power, and I couldn't come up with any solutions on how to do that. I'm sure if I jumpered this or jumpered that it would have worked out, but again I couldn't make sense of the electrical schematic
In my uneducated opinion the inside of the tank didn't seem to bad, I think it'll clean up. What's this red kite? On a Google search I come up with an antibacterial farm spray for livestock🤷.
The sock was intact but extremely brittle. I got it coming out the tank, the the weight of itself being wet almost ripped it off the rest of the way. Looking forward to hearing about fuel pump options, I'd like to just drop a whole new unit in it it's still available.

[26ftcobraBBF]

Hallelujah, I was on the edge of my seat as well. Eagerly waiting to hear what I can use. Thank you so much for finding that info.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, if you want to try and salvage the tank you have, Damon has been making this stuff for decades.
Be sure to let it thoroughly dry before putting into service.

http://damonq.com/red-kote.html

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's good to see how many hits there are on that assembly.
Sometimes (like in my one year wonder) the sender/pickup assemblies are virtually unobtainable.

[26ftcobraBBF]

Because my opinion was uneducated I thought twice, and bought a new tank $90 bucks, I would be dumb not to. Thank you

On a side note for some reason I have to reset my password everytime I log into the forum   ugh!! Wonder why

[ArdWrknTrk]

When you navigate to the forum are you using the link at the bottom of an email notification?
Do you have the 'keep me logged in' box checked?
Do you have Nabble whitelisted to allow cookies on your device?

It is a valid question to ask how you would go about reconditioning the tank for use.
But as Gary said when he first saw your pump/sender assembly,"Ugh, I don't think I've seen one so bad"

Sometimes Spectra offers a complete drop in unit.
Tank with pump, sender and roll over valve installed. straps included.

Having replaced both tanks and senders in my truck by piecing the bits together: trying to make sure X strap fits X tank with X stone guard in X chassis can be a challenge.

Since you have two tanks and a generator we need to look into whether your switching valve functions properly.
With a new pump in the tank the one on the frame rail can probably be swapped for a fuel filter.

[26ftcobraBBF]

Yes I'm using the link in the email. Since I asked the question it hasn't asked me for a password. Weird...
I think I checked the box, I usually do, and I don't remember being asked about cookies. But I'll keep an eye out.
I've asked a couple of local Auto parts stores and neither O'Riley's, nor Napa were able to come up with a complete assembly.  Napa so far had the best options for cleaning up what I had and rebuilding it, (new pump, new strainer, new float to clip on the sender), but is still looking for a sender. I told them id check to see if I was going to need one .They seemed a little high on price. 70.00 for the good life time warranty pump, then 20,00 DOLLARS FOR
0 THE LITTLE REPLACEMENT FLOAT, 15 DOLLARS FOR THE STRAINER Do you know what the values would be with I assume an ohm meter? Resistance on empty, then on full?
I always thought that the Generator ran on the front tank, but after pulling it out there was only 2 hoses, the supply and return. So the rear must have three hoses.
 Kinda of unrelated, but is there a inline check valve I can put on the generator line? The crank time I feel is excessive between starts because the fuel line drains back to the the tank.

[Gary Lewis]

Have you tried Rock Auto?  I've had problems with them, but for the most part they are one of the most complete suppliers around.  And don't miss Jim's comment about buying a complete system.  I did.

As for the check valve, this search turned up several.  And the assortment on Amazon looks good.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The listing right below it (9350-D) says aft axle E-350 including cutaway... with 3 ports.

I'm going to suggest that this is the one for the generator.
If the third port is connected to the pump, and not just a suction line, I don't see why you would need a check valve.

But I'm unsure of how the generator is wired.

[26ftcobraBBF]

Update here, I'm sure a few of you are wondering if that guy ever found his paddle....
So I've went ahead and dropped the rear tank also, I was going to wait till I got the new front tank, and the new  pump assembly installed in it, but in my research I've  found it's been tough finding decent quality parts. For the front tank I actually found a whole complete pump/ sender assembly.  O'rileys couldn't find it, Autozone showed one, but was unavailable. Napa couldn't find it either.  They all could get just the pump, but not the entire assembly. I found for online purchase only, from Advanced Auto parts a Spectra Premium  pump/ sender assembly.... $169.00... they gave me $45.00 bucks off as a promo if I signed up to receive there news letter... no brainer there. Also with my purchase confirmation email,  they sent me a 25% off coupon to be used in 72 hours.
As for the condition of rear tank...pristine,  I was shocked at how the front and rear tanks differed, not a speck of rust , or dirt. Just afew small pieces of deteriorated fuel hose from the generator pickup tube. The rear tank sending unit was in better shape, and still functioning so ill just be replacing the pump alone. One of the challenges I found was finding  a suitable GPH pump. Most of the ones that they said were an OEM Pump  lacked the required volume. All the parts ordered Stay tuned they'll be arriving Friday.
P.S. a bench test revealed both old pumps were bad, and wouldn't power up.

[Gary Lewis]

I thought we had the paddle and used it on the newbies.  

Anyway, you are certainly making progress!  Finding the whole assembly was a huge blessing.  And finding the rear setup in such good shape was a blessing as well.

And that bench test confirmed what you already thought - time to replace the pumps.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

You might consider replacing that pump on the frame with a large fuel filter...  💡

[26ftcobraBBF]

I'm planning on it, just haven't decided which one.  There's a Holley I seen that has a clear canister with replaceable element    (which is expensive) or maybe just a regular metal one with 3/8 in and 3/8 out. Probably the cheaper option this project has gotten quite speedy. I also went and replaced all the hoses.. I wish I would have priced the tank filler hoses before I cut the old ones off. Yikes!!! They needed replaced, but dam there expensive. Ended up going to the wrecking yard this morning and pulled some off random vehicles. Napa wanted about 90.00 in hose, got them for 5 bucks.

[ARM Ashby]

I have a F350 7.5 with all smog and fuel system in stock form and operating with no problems. I use Airtex E2088s in main tank (4)m wire. Rear tank is factory plastic tank with small hole I use Airtex #E2091s (2) wire. Make sure that the fuel lines that run on top of the frame in the engine compartment ( Pressure and return) are as far away from exhaust manifold as possible. I used fuel line heat sleeves on both to stop vapor lock.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The reflective heat shield is a very good idea!  💡

I think Gary has some on his fuel lines too.  

[ARM Ashby]

Also Fuel pressure is 2.5 to 5 psi.

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, I have reflective insulation on the fuel lines, but supply and return, where they cross the exhaust - even though they are several inches away from it.

[26ftcobraBBF]

Hi all,
UPDATE:
I've got the Cobra MH all back together, 2 new fuel pumps, removed universal pump that was hanging off the frame rail, removed the romex that someone ran from the fuse panel to the universal pump.
With all properly installed and grounds clean, I still have to power to the pumps.
I have power in and out of the inertia switch,  so where do I go from here? Jumper the solenoid? Jumper the oil pressure switch? Help!