New 351W engine

[Andre]

Since my last post of the Bronco being ready for the road again I mentioned that the engine remained with low oil pressure, and a bearing rattling sound when driving about 45. Did some checks and added some oil additive to see if this would change something, but the rattle remained, although oil pressure increased a little. Another sound in the back was indicating either loose flex plate bolts or converter nuts. Decision was made to order another engine, as this would come with warranty, and I can use the old 351 for another project for next year. This involves a 1969 Ford Ranchero, but for this project I will overhaul the old 351 first.
Engine has been installed, all rattles are gone, even the suspected flex or converter noise, what most likely came from bearing end play. Oil pressure is now at 60 psi when cold, and remains at 35 psi when hot, tested with external pressure gauge. It was also noted that the 750 cfm carb that was installed at the old engine is way to big for this engine, therefore a new 600 cfm was installed, and makes the car pick up from idle to driving steady and instant. While the engine was removed I overhauled the steering column, that had some play on bearings and bushings, this is also much easier on handling now. As I do have a tilt column, some play remains, but this normal on the tilt unit, but this is nothing compared to what I noticed before.


As its raining a lot in Holland at the moment, I need to use the wipers anytime I drive, and a strange effect started, when switching off the car, the radio would remain on. I suspected the ignition switch, and while overhauling the steering column, the ignition switch and ignition key was changed, with the same result after starting the car with the new engine.
With some measuring and looking for information in Gary's library, I came to find out that the radio and wipers are on the same 12 volt power source, and the fuse would remain hot when the car was switched off. Playing with the wiper switch would drop the 12 volt power from the fuse and the radio switched off as well. This indicates that the delay switch under the dash, and installed to return the wipers to neutral after switching of the car would keep the power on to the wipers and radio, but when I turned the wipers to on and directly off again, it would trigger the relay to drop the 12 volts.
So another thing to change for the future, the wiper switch with delay module, as this would have to resolve the issue.

While the engine was out, we also painted the main brake cylinder, as without paint the new unit started to corrode a little.

Project to come to an hold for this year, as I will be going to Spain for the winter, and cannot take the Bronco due to restrictions in winter time with oldtimer cars, so time to relax and prepare parts for next year again.

The bullnose site is great to find important information, especially drawings etc.

Have a great winter all.

[grumpin]

Nice work!

[Gary Lewis]

Excellent job, Andre!  The new engine looks fantastic, and the steering column work had to have helped a bunch.  

But I don't agree on the diagnosis on the windshield wipers.  As shown in the schematic below, the wipers should only be getting power in Accy or Run.  So if you have power to the wipers and the radio when the key is off then there's a problem either in the wiring or in the ignition switch itself.

One test for the ignition switch would be to pull the connector off the switch when the key is off and there is still voltage on the radio or wipers.  If the power goes away then the problem has to do with the switch.

Did you adjust the switch with the instructions shown on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and the Ignition Switch tab?  Maybe it is just out of adjustment?

Anyway, good luck in Spain.  We are reading here that cases of COVID-19 are growing rapidly in Europe, as they are here.  Stay safe!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Andre,
Your new engine looks fantastic, and it seems drives much better with an appropriately sized carburetor.

The Bronco itself is stunning.
I hope that even though your Ranchero doesn't quite fit in here as a Bullnose you will keep us updated on your return from Spain.

Another of our members -George, from Louisiana- has a cherished Ranchero as well.

Please enjoy your sunny winter home.
Perhaps share some vacation photos with us!  

[Andre]

Thanks for the nice words, but Gary I agree to disagree, when the Bronco first drove again, there was no issue with this at all, but was raining a lot at the same time when I drove it a month ago, this is when it started, radio would not switch off when removing the key. When I did the steering column, replaced the switch and ignition mainly to have a new key and not possible to rotate without key. As the column was out, it was perfect to adjust the ignition switch, and all is working fine, but still the radio would remain on when removing the key.
After doing some trouble shooting and measuring at the fuses, I found out that the power at the fuse to the radio remained on, but when switching the wiper switch to on and off again, it would kill the power at the fuse.
As both are on the same fuse, and doing some googling, the power remains on at the ( my guess ) internal governor until the wipers have returned to the neutral position. This to not have the wipers sitting half way the wind screen.
How I am so sure, as when I leave the wipers on, or on interval, and shut down the car and remove the key, the wipers return to neutral, and radio switching off, as supposed to do.
I just need to figure out if this is the wiper switch or internal governor, or maybe do best to replace both.

Other then that, the car has massive power now, and acceleration is as never before. Looking to buy some fender flares, as with this set up on tires, mud and water is flying everywhere, as the wheels at the front are sticking out a little to far. Also have received new door hinges, as they are sagging a little.

Fuel consumption is also horrible, but that I knew, and is not an issue for the reason I have the car, it wont be driving 100.000 a year.

I'm happy with spending the extra buck on long block and steering column, as it makes all the difference, only need to connect the cooling water hoses now from the engine to the heater coil, as I am freezing my feet of now when driving, I left them off to make sure the engine was fine, but connecting them to the heater coil is no issue, as this was replaced for new as well.

Thanks again for all the help, and great information on the site.

[Sac79]

A nice Spider behind the Bronco there... Can't quite tell if it's a Series 3 or 4, looks like 4?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I noticed that too, in the first photo.
But not the car you'd choose in a cold rain.   😅

Don't discount the wiper motor.
63 -park- is live all the time and known to go bad often enough.
I'd have to look at the radio page to see if it is possible for that to feed the radio

[Gary Lewis]

Andre - I haven't tested Big Blue, but I thought that when you turn the key off the wipers stop where they are and don't continue running to the Park position.  If I'm right, yours is wired differently that the norm

All - Can someone confirm that?  Do your wipers stop when you turn the key off?

Andre - I'll check Big Blue tomorrow if no one else beats me to it.

[Sac79]

Yes, the wipers stop wherever when you turn the ignition off...

edit - that could just be the way mine is wired now, but I'm reasonably sure it was that way before too.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If you have your wipers on and shut the truck off the wipers don't park?
They just stop mid stroke?

[Gary Lewis]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

If you have your wipers on and shut the truck off the wipers don't park?
They just stop mid stroke?

Yep.  Pretty sure Big Blue is the same.  Will confirm in the morn.  Which fits with the schematic.

[Andre]

Funny thing is, I checked today, they will stop anywhere when switching of the ignition, but with the wiper on, the radio will switch off too. When the wipers are off, and I shut down the engine, remove the key, the radio remains on, until I switch the wipers on and directly off again, for this is doesnt matter if this is to the delay function or normal function. I did remember to read somewhere online, that the wiper remain powered to return to park when switching off, but those years dont do that yet. Strange thing. I do hear the relay at the wiper switch to make that sound that relays do when they are bad, and after this tiny noise, the radio shuts off. Best maybe to replace the wiper switch little control box when I am back in March,

[Gary Lewis]

That reminded me to test Big Blue - his wipers shut off with the key.  Is it possible that your radio is backfeeding?  Can you unplug the radio and test?

A Mini Pickup!  That's cool!

[Sac79]

Very cool! Nice color too. But I'd rather have a Spider... Series 2 though.

[ArdWrknTrk]

This may sound crazy, but is it possible the capacitor holds enough to keep things powered for a bit even though the truck is switched off?

Giving it a path to ground would allow it to discharge, and if the timing were slow enough it would not be long enough (i.e. flipping the switch quickly) to recharge.

Putting a resistor across the output would solve this.

[Andre]

All, Thanks for the advice, but it all has to wait until spring, Bronco will be washed top and bottom today, and set back in the shop with a custom made tarp for its winter sleep. Time for me to head to spain before all borders close again, and to see my wife again after I have seen her last in March due to all the corona restrictions and us both be on different parts of europe when it all started. Did help me a little with this project that she was not around, as it keeps attention to the project a little easier. ( I wont tell her that tho)

All the best for the winter, and to continue in spring time.

[Gary Lewis]

You must miss her!  I spent 3 months in London decades ago and the wife and kids didn't get to come.  It was LONELY!  But I had London and parts of England to explore, so I kept busy so I didn't have time to remember.  I'm sure the Bronco was something like that for you.  But don't tell her.  

Have a safe journey.  Everything I read says it is getting worse in Europe just like it is here, so please be careful.  And I look forward to picking this conversation up in the spring.

[Andre]

Goodmorning Jim,

While in my winterhome in Spain, I had the time to scan through the entire electrical section on the site, and when looking at page 16 of the 1985 EVTM the constant 12 volts to the radio I installed is coming from the sigar lighter, and the switched 12 volts is coming from its normal source. If the radio would have an internal problem, it could maintain a 12 volt power source back feeding into the switched 12 volts, and in this same circuit the window wipers are powered. With me switching the wipers quickly on/off, there could be enough power drop to switch of the radio.
As I have removed most of the wiring involving the EEC, I noticed there is a lot more I can remove. Therefore I think that when returning home I will remove the entire dash again, and start from scratch and remove anything I dont require anymore. This would make things a lot easier for the future.
Just dont know if the 1895 EVTM is accurate for the 1982 Bronco I have, and I will see if I can find a specific manual on the 1982 Bronco, with initial EEC installed, this would give me the proper color codes etc on wires and connectors. As I noticed that many of the wires as mentioned in this document are not applying to my car. As I no longer have the EEC installed, the wiring could be a lot less complicated.

The weird thing is, all worked fine until a certain moment, and now its not. That makes me think something has changed at the radio. Side note is that since this started to happen, the clock is not working at all anymore.

I will also remove the shunt wire that would make the amp meter work, as this needle is not moving any direction, and the shunt is creating a lot of heat at the alternator. As I have installed a alternator with internal voltage regulator, there is no need for a external regulator, but to make the amp meter work I needed to install the shunt wiring, instead of going directly to the battery. Better to install a voltage meter in the system, and remove the amp meter from the circuit.

The capacitor as you mention I don't have in the system.

Thanks again for the tips.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Andre,
The clock not working is quite a clue.
I would perhaps unplug it, and see if the problem can be solved.

You can take the large yellow wire (cab feed) and go directly to the fuse after your alternator.
This way the ammeter wiring and shunt can just sit there until such time you upgrade to a voltmeter.

Ford was very good about keeping color codes over years and across product lines. (i.e. the oil pressure sender in my '87 truck is going to be the same W/R as found in a '74 Pinto)

Perhaps Gary has an '82 EVTM he can post more of in the documentation?

[Andre]

Thanks for the reply, and in the mean time I will look for a proper wiring diagram for this year.