Need Some Help - Front Axle Bushings

[Gary Lewis]

I'm working on Dad's truck and was going to install the front swing arms.  TTB's?  (You can see the illustrations thereof on the new section I added today on the "Front Drive Axle" from the factory shop manual: Driveline/Axles & Differentials, and then the Front Axle tab and then the Instructions tab.)

Anyway, I'm using Prothane bushings and just pulled out the instructions shown below, and they call for installing these bushing inside "the original outer metal shells".  My issue is that I don't remember any metal around the rubber bushings that were in the TTB's.  And I don't have them laying around.  Were there any?

The bushings measure 1.677" OD with the inner metal sleeve installed.  And the TTB's measure 1.668" ID.  So even w/o a metal shell there's already going to be a .009" compression of the bushing.

I can call Prothane on Monday, but wanted to get a bit done over the weekend.  

[85lebaront2]

Gary, I wouldn't know on them. The ones I installed on the rear of the konvertible retained the original Chrysler shell (also polyurethane) and were a PITA to get in even with the lubricant the manufacturer provides. I do have a bit left over from them and the ones I used on the front bumper.

[Steve83]

Removing the old bushings (even if they're shot) from those sleeves would be difficult.





I prefer black Energy polyurethane.

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah, but I have the Prothane - in back.  I see that yours need that shell, and the Prothane may as well.  Guess I'll call them tomorrow.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I called Prothane today.  Turns out that the metal shells are still in the swing arms.  

That's actually good 'cause they've been powder coated and are ready for the bushings.  

See Dad's truck thread for the progress.

[FuzzFace2]

Steve83 wrote

Removing the old bushings (even if they're shot) from those sleeves would be difficult.





I prefer black Energy polyurethane.

To remove the rubber part but keep the shell in the arm or beam or what ever you want to call it I used old gas & fire.
Mine was a 4x2 truck so the bushings were in smaller end of the beams. I hung the beams from the rafters in a can of old gas and soaked for a few hours.
I removed the arms and 1 match they were on fire. As the fire would die down I used an old screw driver to "stir" the rubber and it would flare up some. I kept this up till the rubber was all gone.
A little clean up with a wire brush and paint everything before I installed the new bushings.
Threaded rod, large washers and some nuts pressed the bushing into place.
I cant remembered if I had to use the inner shell but if I did a little clean up on the bench wire wheel and were good to go.

I have heard of others that drilled the rubber out but it was work.
Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Apparently it is really difficult to get that rubber out 'cause the Prothane instructions suggest burning as well.

I don't remember what I did, but the shells are nice and smooth, and powder coated.

[FuzzFace2]

My rubber bushings did not look that bad but "when in there" is why I replaced them.
Burning them out was pretty easy and would tell others to do the same.

When looking for the washers, see your other thread, I found an inner sleeve so thinking no inner sleeve with the harder bushing.

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, saw the comments on the Dad's Truck Build thread.  Thanks.

But the Prothane bushings do have the inner sleeve.  And for anyone doing this, the tech at Prothane said to press the bushing into the outer sleeve w/o the inner sleeve in it.  Then press the inner sleeve in.  But use plenty of the special grease.

I did and they went together quite nicely, although that grease is the stickiest stuff I think I've seen/felt.

[85lebaront2]

Gee, that sounds like the same grease Poly Bushings sent me for the Chrysler bushings, is it green? BTW, that "burn out the rubber" is exactly the procedure Johnny Spiva recommends for his suspension bushings and the "insert the sleeve after the bushings are in place" also is in his instructions.

[Gary Lewis]

No, this stuff is clear.  And I'm going to have to go over things with a rag and alcohol to see if I can get that stuff off.  It seems impossible to get all the pieces in place and the parts shoved into the bracket on the frame w/o getting some on your hands and, therefore, onto the axle.  

[Steve83]

The grease is probably common silicone, which doesn't dissolve in anything common.  Auto paint suppliers usually have aerosol silicone remover.

[Gary Lewis]

That's good to know.  I haven't tried yet, but I found some spots of it today while pulling those retainers.  Very gooey.