My '85 F150 XLT recently bought

[IowaTom]

Hello Gang!  I live in western Washington state, tho originally from Iowa.  My neighbor sold me his neglected '85 4X4 with the 300 c.i. six and four speed manual, and for the past few weeks have been working to freshen things up.  New brakes & hoses for one, since it's more important to stop than go...
First I want to thank Gary for creating and hosting this forum!  I know I'll be a regular.  My main interest has been restoring tired iron; mostly Studebakers although I also have a '59 Rambler and a '54 Kaiser that's currently for sale on Hemmings.  I've owned a few Rangers over the years and always loved them.  My "new" F150 has the 8' bed and recently I cleaned it up and gave it a coat of Herculiner.  If nothing else, it sure looks better!
At the moment, I have an electrical issue.  I replaced the ignition lock cylinder in the column because the old one was sloppy and the key very warn.  As many of you know, it's a simple procedure but now, for whatever reason, when I go to start her, all I get is one click from the solenoid.  Lights don't work until I disconnect the battery and re-connect it, then try again and get one click with lights going out.  I replaced the ground cable and know the battery connections are tight.  Could my solenoid have died?
Anyway, thanks in advance for any help and I'm seriously having more fun than an old guy should, under this old beast.

[Gary Lewis]

Tom - Welcome!  Glad you joined.  

But, before we get started, who are you rooting for at 2:30 this afternoon?  

Seriously though, where's home?  We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu above) and we could add you if we had a city or zip.

On the electrical problem, you'll want to start a thread in the main section as it'll get more attention.  But have you seen the alignment directions on the Ignition Switch tab at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition?

But it is possible the starter relay, aka solenoid, can go bad.  But it is rare for that to happen when you are working on the ignition switch.  It is more likely there's something wrong with the switch or its installation.

[IowaTom]

Thanks, Gary!
Using your instructions with a small drill bit, I believe I was able to readjust the switch.  Still have the same issue with the relay clicking once and no engine cranking.  I know my battery cables are good and connections are clean and tight.  Engine is not stuck because it was running before.  I have even used a good jumper cable on the posts in addition to the truck's cables to see if there wasn't a short someplace.  Maybe it's time to replace the starter relay.

[Gary Lewis]

If you put a jumper cable from the front big post to the back big post the engine cranks?

How 'bout if you go from the front big big post to the little post where the red/light blue wire is?  That should pull the relay in and cause the engine to crank.  If not, then the relay is bad.  If it does then you aren't pulling the relay in with the ignition switch.

[IowaTom]

I tried them both, Gary, and no crank.  Going to replace the solenoid relay!  Thank you!

[Gary Lewis]

If you jumpered across the two big terminals and it didn't crank then the problem isn't the relay as you bypassed it.  The problem is either the battery cables/connections or the starter.

[IowaTom]

I was thinking about the starter too, since the relay clicked when it should.  I'll take it off and over to an auto electric guy near me for testing.
Now once that issue is behind me, I'm onto a wiper motor situation.  Can't get a new motor to run and I know the switch is good.  As Roseanna-danna used to say; it's alllllways something!

[Gary Lewis]

These trucks are like onions.  You peel and cry, peel and cry.  But soon you have enough onions to have a Bloomin' Onion!  

On the wipers, don't miss the page at Documentation/Electrical/Wipers.  And see the Troubleshooting tab.

[IowaTom]

Boy, you nailed it!  I've got so many things apart - it's a mess.  I have checked out your fixing the module page and plan to do that surgery soon.  I live in the PNW and definitely need my wipers!
Thanks again, Gary.

[grumpin]

Welcome!

[85lebaront2]

Welcome to the forums! Glad to have you and yes, as Gary put it, it is like peeling an onion, one layer at a time.

[IowaTom]

Thank you guys!

I will take the starter to my auto electric guy tomorrow.  As for the wiper control box...ugh, another contortionist approach to removal.  Doesn't help I'm Lurch...6'5" with XL hands.  I see it's right behind my headlight switch.  A reach-behind and gentle tug tells me it's fast in there.  Gotta get it out, tho!  Any suggestions would be great.

I got the mid tank sender plug popped off and dragged it out to empty it of "shellac" old gas.  I was first able to siphon about 5 gallons out and in the process, got a mouthfull of the most vile stuff I've ever spat 175 times to get the taste out!  ha ha ha!!  

[Gary Lewis]

Oh man, that taste won't go away for days!  

On the wiper control box, I think it will unplug and come out w/o taking the switch out.  It is tight up there, but it can be done.  And it isn't actually screwed down as popping off the emergency brake has enough impact to cause problems with the box, so it sorta dangles by its wires.

[IowaTom]

Believe it or not, mine was screwed down.  One screw held it to the plastic that holds the dash in.  I removed it, with the plugs, of course, and using a magnifying glass, couldn't see any solder cracks or breaks.  What I did see is a loose wire from the back of the black connector.  I re-seated it in the slot that corresponds to the same B&W wire in the harness plug.  Hoping it solves my power issue to the wipers.
Now when I replace the module, I'll wrap it in foam and secure it with a zip tie.
Well, if I have to buy a new one at least I can navigate under there.
Thanks again for your help & encouragement, Gary and all!

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you found a bad connection.  I'll bet that fixes it.  And padding it and hanging it is a good plan.  

[IowaTom]

Darned if it didn't.  Plugged everything back in and still nothing.  Going to try to squeeze the plugs together a little tighter before I throw in the towel and buy a new module.
Oh well, if everything were easy, there'd be no fun in it.  

[IowaTom]

The wiper works!!  I gave the plugs a squeeze, but also used my jumper cable to better ground the motor.  More often than not I've discovered bad grounds when things don't work right.  

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, bad grounds are the scourge of the Bullnose trucks.  There were changes to the grounds over the Bullnose era, but the big changes came around 1990.  So when I re-wired Big Blue I added a bunch of grounds.  So far, no problems.

But glad you got it figured out.  Now you just have to fix the ground.