My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

[Rembrant]

Steve83 wrote

Rembrant wrote

Now I have to remove some rivets.

This TSB is Ford's procedure for that:

Oh...thanks for this by the way. That's very handy to have.

[Rembrant]

Steve83 wrote

But everything will work better if you replace them (& all the other rubber on the truck) with black Energy poly.

I got the spring and shackle bushings all removed this morning. I've been looking at the Energy Suspension kits, and there are three versions for the F150.

4.2114G
"w/Common frame shackle bushings"

4.2122G
"w/Plastic frame shackle bushings"

4.2140G
"w/Molded in frame shackle bushings"

I thought my original rearward bushings were rubber until I got them cleaned off and removed. They are a hard white plastic. See below:




The front leaf bushings are the typical metal sleeved ones, but the rear leaf and shackles are these hard white plastic.

I assume this means I'd need the Poly kit 4.2122G for plastic frame shackle bushings (if I decide to go with Poly).

[Oz Econoline/F100]

Some of those kits from energy suspension need the outer steel shell left in the spring and you just use the new bush and centre pin with the horrible sticking lube.

[Gary Lewis]

Darin/Oz is right, some of those kits expect you to use the existing metal shell.  But since yours is plastic that must be why they now have a kit for the plastic ones.

And, I think you'll want the poly bushings rather than rubber.  But get them in black, and use lots of their lube.

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

Darin/Oz is right, some of those kits expect you to use the existing metal shell.  But since yours is plastic that must be why they now have a kit for the plastic ones.

And, I think you'll want the poly bushings rather than rubber.  But get them in black, and use lots of their lube.

Well, I might end up with rubber just for the simple fact that I was planning on buying new hangers and shackles, and it looks like they come with the "common" style bushings. I'm hoping to get it all sorted out today so I can get some parts on order.

[FuzzFace2]

That snow ball is rolling along pretty good
Keep up the good work.
Dave ----

[Rembrant]

So I ordered a whole bunch of parts today...we'll call them early Christmas presents for Rembrant.

I'm sure I'll disappoint a few folks here, but I did not go with the Poly bushings (for a couple reasons)

I ordered these Dorman complete kits for the front and rear mounts:

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-46308-722-100.aspx

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-28824-722-002.aspx

Also ordered a new fuel tank, fuel tank sender, new straps, new cap, and of course a new RedHead steering box.

So, now I have to drill out some more rivets in the frame, and get grinding and painting in preparation for the new parts.

[Gary Lewis]

No disappointment on my part.  I think the truck will ride better on the rubber bushings.  I've wondered about using them on Big Blue since he rides so poorly, but I think the real problem is the rear springs.

Anyway, you have a lot of work to do!  Have fun, but I'm sure it will be.  

[Steve83]

The bushings don't bear the weight of the truck, so it doesn't "ride" on them - it rides on the springs, so the bushing material doesn't affect ride smoothness.  It DOES affect handling, though.  Poly gives much-better handling.

Your truck will ride better if you spread the rear leaves, clean, & grease them (or paint them with graphite).

[Rembrant]

Steve83 wrote

It DOES affect handling, though.  Poly gives much-better handling.

Gotcha. In my case, the truck handles fine...well, it could handle better, but it's current limitations are the sloppy reman steering box and the lack of swaybars. I currently can't drive it to the point where I'd be taxing the leaf spring bushings. With a new RedHead steering box this winter, and newly installed front and rear swaybars, and all new suspension bushings throughout the whole truck, it will be miles ahead of where it is now. I have no intention of carving corners with this thing anyway...it's just meant to be a summer weekend cruiser.

[Steve83]

It would still feel safer & more-functional on poly.  But new rubber is probably an improvement over those old plastic bushings.

[Rembrant]

Some more progress on the rear half of the frame this morning. I've drilled and chiseled the heads off 24 rivets in total, 12 down each side. This is how she looks after the first pass with the wire cup wheel.




I think it will clean up OK. Going to require several passes to get all the gunk and rust cleaned up. I hosed it down with brake clean when I was finished.

Two perforations that need attention:

One spot, that didn't pass the "Reamer Test" was dead center of the three mounting holes for the driver's side upper shock mount:



The other is a small hole where the driver's side front leaf spring bracket mounts. Small hole next to the lower left hole. The area itself is a bit thin there, so the repair will be quite a bit bigger than the hole itself.



They are both bad areas where water, dirt, salt, etc will collect and just sit. Passenger side is pretty much OK. Driver's side is always prone to rust earlier anyway, so nothing surprising here.

A few more cleaning passes, then some Ospho treatment, and if all goes well I will be painting next weekend.

I have the rear end, leaf springs, and a few other bits and pieces all loaded on a pallet to go out for sand blasting.

[Steve83]

Rembrant wrote

One spot, that didn't pass the "Reamer Test" was dead center of the three mounting holes for the driver's side upper shock mount...

Instead of patching that hole, consider boring it out & leaving it open so trash can't collect there any more.  Just make sure it meets all the criteria near the middle of this caption:



I also recommend adding holes to the bottoms of the rear leaf brackets so they don't hold water/mud.

[Rembrant]

Good ideas Steve, especially on the new rear leaf brackets.

For the shock mount, I was going to patch/fill the frame hole properly, and then drill a little hole in the bottom of the shock mount itself for a drain. That was my plan at least.

[Steve83]

There's less metal in the shock mount to bear its loads, so I wouldn't remove any of that.  The frame has some extra metal, if you obey the limitations in that caption.

[Steve83]

There's less metal in the shock mount to bear its loads, so I wouldn't remove any of that.  The frame has some extra metal, if you obey the limitations in that caption.

[Rembrant]

Lots of progress on the old F150 this week:

Got the two bad spots on the frame all fixed up.

Got a bunch of miscellaneous stuff blasted clean...




And made it over to the US border to pick up my new RedHead steering box:



Some more grinding and wire wheel work on Friday night and Saturday am, then some rust treatment, then I'll pop the new bushings in the leaf springs, and if all goes well I'll be painting on Sunday.

[Gary Lewis]

That's great news!  And great progress!  I'm envious, for sure.  

[PetesPonies]

I would STRONGLY suggest painting all those parts with Master Series Silver. It is a moisture cured primer, that is fantastic. It can go over clean new metal as well as rusty metal. It will take any topcoat your choose. I have been using Master Series for 20 years now in restorations. I have not been let down.

[Ford F834]

PetesPonies wrote

I would STRONGLY suggest painting all those parts with Master Series Silver. It is a moisture cured primer, that is fantastic. It can go over clean new metal as well as rusty metal. It will take any topcoat your choose. I have been using Master Series for 20 years now in restorations. I have not been let down.

Pete, is this paint a sealer? As in does it require an immediate top coat or can you use it and leave it until you are ready for paint?