My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

I think you have to adjust the door latch when you install new seals.

Gary,

I'll give them a little bit and see if they settle in better. I remember reading the thread below on the topic...

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Door-seal-tp24618.html

I think part of the problem is the aftermarket driver's door...it doesn't quite fit as well as the original. I'll get it sorted out eventually. Now that I have the truck driving nicely, I'm on mission to get the interior finished (and quieted down).

[Sac79]

After installing the new seals in SC, my truck sat for 3 years with the doors closed. It made no difference. I've adjusted the latch as far out as it will go and I'm able to slam the doors shut now while still having acceptable body lines. Before adjusting the latch I could only close it to the first 'click', at which point the doors aren't lockable.

I hope you get the doors/seals to a point where you are happy with them.

[Rembrant]

Sac79 wrote

After installing the new seals in SC, my truck sat for 3 years with the doors closed. It made no difference. I've adjusted the latch as far out as it will go and I'm able to slam the doors shut now while still having acceptable body lines. Before adjusting the latch I could only close it to the first 'click', at which point the doors aren't lockable.

I hope you get the doors/seals to a point where you are happy with them.

Thanks for the feedback. That's interesting. I guess I'll wait and see what mine do. If they don't settle in, I'll go around the whole thing and see if I can find the real tight spots and maybe then trim them if I have to. I don't think we have much in the way of options do we? I bought the complete kit by Fairchild. I kind of assumed that everybody is selling the same kit, but that was just a guess.

[Rembrant]

Hey Rob and Ray, do you remember where you bought your door seals? Just curious what brand they were (and if they were the same as mine).

I did some reading last night, and one thing I found to try was to brush/rub baby power on to the seals and the door. That guy said it had more to do with traction than compression. I believe it's both, but he reported good results with that.

Another guy that restores cars said that he cuts them (or trims them) in the tight areas, or cuts a slit in the rubber bubble part. This is what I had in my head as my biggest issue is that the gap/space is really inconsistent, especially on the driver's side with that aftermarket door I have installed.

Other's recommended leaving the truck outside on a hot day to soften up the gaskets. I suppose that might work a little closer to the equator...lol, I'm not sure about here...maybe in August.

I might try a little dual action, with the heat gun and baby powder...that is, if they don't soften up on their own.

       

[ArdWrknTrk]

Rubber is a vulcanized product.
Heat may temporarily change its durometer but shouldn't affect its shape once it's fully cured.

We couldn't have things like car tires if it weren't that way.

[Rembrant]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Rubber is a vulcanized product.
Heat may temporarily change its durometer but shouldn't affect its shape once it's fully cured.

We couldn't have things like car tires if it weren't that way.

Yes sir. You just reminded me of something. Another comment that somebody made was that the original door seals were some kind of rubber coated foam? This is why they complied much easier...obviously this issue didn't exist on the assembly line, right? So, one thing somebody suggested was to go buy new OEM door seals from a current model vehicle, and that they'll work much better (and of course be much more expensive).

I don't think the heat was meant to change the shape of the rubber per se, but to help it find it's shape when compressed by the door. If the door seals never change shape, then there will be no choice but to cut and trim them. Going by some reports of the replacement seals never complying, then that may be the only solution.

[FuzzFace2]

I went with the Fairchild kit based on what you posted.

Now I did adjust the latches but they were removed for painting and installed to keep the doors from flying open when moving the truck around till the seals were installed.

My drivers door closes pretty good its the passengers side that I have to slam. I use the door as much as the drivers door as I throw my lunch cooler & work tools in on that side.

But I think it is more because the door is bent a little. I say this because I can see the upper rear inside of the window frame has hit the cab door opening and chipped the paint.

Some day I will see about bending it back a little with the "body man's trick" and see if that helps on closing. The opening lines are not show truck but pretty good for a driver and I hate to go messing them up or chipping paint if the door hits the opening or fender.

I don't think I could bring myself to cut the rubber just to get the door to close better where adjusting the latch may do the trick.
Dave ----

[kramttocs]

FWIW, I am using Precision DWP 2110 80 and don't feel like I need to slam them. The latches were removed for painting so I can't say how much they are moved from before but the body lines are good. I shut the doors with the same force as I do with any [new] vehicle. I do have lightweight sound mats in the door also.

Also, this is likely common body shop knowledge but I didn't know about it and was happy to make the discovery after installing the weatherstripping - if the interior door panel is off there is a hole in the latching mechanism that allows you to loosen the striker bolt, pull the door so the body lines match and then tighten it up.

[Sac79]

I'm 99% sure it's a kit from Fairchild. I think from RA, but not sure. Weirdly, in addition to the door seals being stiff, the driver's side is about an 1" too short. I should probably take them out again and compare the two pieces. Also, I'm not happy with the vent window seals, the fit was terrible from the start and hasn't improved. The rest is fine. I hope you have better luck. I would not cut the door seals either if I was you, at least not as anything other than a last resort.

[Ray Cecil]

Dont remember exactly where I got mine....but good chance it was LMC. So whatever brand they carry.

[Rembrant]

Sac79 wrote

I'm 99% sure it's a kit from Fairchild. I think from RA, but not sure. Weirdly, in addition to the door seals being stiff, the driver's side is about an 1" too short.

Oh wow. Mine were actually about 8" too long, I had to cut them to fit. They're actually a little better today. I'm going to give them a little time to see if they settle in better.

[Gary Lewis]

Have you tried the talcum, Cory?  That lets the thing slip a bit when it hits rather than just being squished.

[Sac79]

It's entirely possible that mine came too long to and that I cut one poorly... They both fit fine while the truck was sitting(which happened after a hasty install). It's only once I removed them to clean that the one was too short after the proper install.

[FuzzFace2]

Rembrant wrote

Sac79 wrote

I'm 99% sure it's a kit from Fairchild. I think from RA, but not sure. Weirdly, in addition to the door seals being stiff, the driver's side is about an 1" too short.

Oh wow. Mine were actually about 8" too long, I had to cut them to fit. They're actually a little better today. I'm going to give them a little time to see if they settle in better.

Yep so were mine, had to cut the end or they over lap and you cant have that under the door sill as it would not fit.
Dave ----

[Oz Econoline/F100]

Hey Cory!  Do the after market door rubbers have small relief holes in them to let out the air as the rubber gets squashed as the doors close because the one's on our truck has.

[Rembrant]

Oz Econoline/F100 wrote

Hey Cory!  Do the after market door rubbers have small relief holes in them to let out the air as the rubber gets squashed as the doors close because the one's on our truck has.

Hey Darin, what's going on down under? I wasn't aware of the holes until you asked, but they are indeed there.



Something else I didn't notice until I looked closer at my scrap piece is that the seal part actually is a rubber coated foam (I read this elsewhere).



I think it is just the nature of the beast that they are difficult to close for a while (or forever). However, I have read of Bullnosers that did have good luck with them and the seals did relax and form after a while. I think even now only a couple days later, mine are a little better than they were.

[Oz Econoline/F100]

All good here thanks Cory - I'm just chasing up some parts from the New Year when we visited the US.

That's good that they have the holes. Maybe as you said, it needs to be left in the sun a bit so they can soften up. Keep in mind that your doors have been adjusted to the old rubbers and may have to be readjusted to the new ones.

[Rembrant]

The Blue Mule and I had a sensual Meguiars session last night before going out for a drive. As much as I love my Flaresides, they're a little more of a pain to clean compared to a truck with a Styleside bed!

In any case, I thought I'd let you guys know that my doors are already a little easier to close, especially the driver's door that obviously gets used 100x more than the passenger side. One thing that is a big help is to roll the window down before closing it. Once I do that, it closes pretty well now.



Filled up again this morning an got 16.7 mpg on this recent tank. That's a half a dozen tanks now all within 0.5 mpg of each other, so that's nice and consistent.

Going to pick up my cans of SEM Color-Coat in a little while, so I'm pretty excited about that. Going to try and get my door panels all RE-installed this weekend.

[ArdWrknTrk]

A nice massage with a happy ending!  

Your truck keeps looking better and better, Cory!

[1986F150Six]

Rembrant wrote

In any case, I thought I'd let you guys know that my doors are already a little easier to close, especially the driver's door that obviously gets used 100x more than the passenger side. One thing that is a big help is to roll the window down before closing it. Once I do that, it closes pretty well now.

The old VW Beetle was like that [air tight].


Filled up again this morning an got 16.7 mpg on this recent tank. That's a half a dozen tanks now all within 0.5 mpg of each other, so that's nice and consistent.

Very, very good gas mileage!