Little Blue 82

[Ray Cecil]

Im stopping to get oil and a new battery tomorrow. Sold a wood stove someone gave me so I have some cash. the battery is 5 years old. Better take care of it before it dies this winter.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I keep telling you guys that QC inspection is not some hungover human.
It's a computer algorithm that measures 20 points on ten pieces a second through cameras in different spectrums.. -and DOES NOT miss-

[salans7]

I get all my filters from RK and haven't had one without a drain back valve. I've thought about picking up some of their cheap quarts for my leaky Ranger until I fix the timing cover leak, but I've been skeptical due to the price. So I just stick with $6 quarts of CARQUEST High Mileage in between oil changes.

As for batteries, I can't seem to get one to last more than three years here in Florida. I've been buying Motorcraft branded batteries ever since I bought the truck nine years ago due to their warranty, and am on number four or five at this point. Luckily most have failed before pro-ration ends so I haven't had to pay full price except for the last one that put me out of the time period due to a prior warranty claim. I blame the heat because I keep the terminals clean and clear.

[Ray Cecil]

I used to buy Diehard from sears. Id get 5 years out of those no problem. I think the quality of batteries has either fallen or I am driving vehicles that are more demanding on the batteries. Cant seem to get more than 3 or 4 out now.

The one in the blue truck was there when I got it. Its an Autozone duralast.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The original battery in Lil' Red lasted 11 years!
And gave no sign of slowing down, until I hit a huge bump and once I shut it off, there was nothing.
A cell had broken loose from the terminal.

The Advance Group 65 'Gold' that is in there now was installed 1/15, and has lost much of its reserve in the past (almost) five years.
If you figure, that's $1.80 a month over 60 months time. I think my cost was $108 OTD.

(***Better figures)

[Ray Cecil]

Yeah, the cost of a battery, even if all you get is 3-4 year out of it, ain't all that bad.

[Ray Cecil]

Alrighty......I had lifter noise, Harvest King 10w-30 and a motorcraft filter.....

I changed the oil in Little Blue 82. So, I removed the Harvest King oil. By the way, the Castrol GTX oil I replaced it with has EXACTLY the same API SN ratings. Same weight 10W-30. Apples to apples here.

Soooooo......I had a spare Purolator Filter I found in the bronco....

What do you know? I changed to Castrol and a Purolator and the lifter noise DISAPPEARED COMPLETELY.

Shaking My Head....I don't get it. My wife nicknamed me "Raygyver" 12 years ago.....

[Gary Lewis]

Typically the lifters are the last thing served by the oil system, although I'm not sure about the 300.  So too thick of oil would slow it getting to the lifters and cause a tick.  But I would have thought it would have take really thick oil to do that.

Anyway, glad you got it fixed.

[1986F150Six]

So, was it the Motorcraft filter or the Harvest King oil?

[Ray Cecil]

1986F150Six wrote

So, was it the Motorcraft filter or the Harvest King oil?

Good question.

[Ray Cecil]

Drove Little Blue 82 yesterday. Ran good. But I am starting to notice some driveline slack. A clunk can be heard shiftine 1st to 2nd.

I think its time to check the motor mounts, as well as the transmission mounts.

Ive driven it hard lately, doing burnouts and wheel chirps everytime a Prius pulls up behind me at a redlight....mwuhahaha!!!

Maybe I broke something.

[Gary Lewis]

Check the u-joints and the splines on the driveshaft - if yours has them.  The easiest way to check the splines is to try to move the driveshaft side-to-side and the joint.  It shouldn't move, but those splines don't always get lubed and can wear badly.

[Rembrant]

Ray Cecil wrote

Ive driven it hard lately, doing burnouts and wheel chirps everytime a Prius pulls up behind me at a redlight....mwuhahaha!!!

Maybe I broke something.

lol. Be careful Ray, I've seen a lot of driveshafts land on the ground over the years doing burnouts and wheel chirps!

[Ray Cecil]

Gary Lewis wrote

Check the u-joints and the splines on the driveshaft - if yours has them.  The easiest way to check the splines is to try to move the driveshaft side-to-side and the joint.  It shouldn't move, but those splines don't always get lubed and can wear badly.

When I dropped the driveshaft a few weeks ago, I checked then all was good and tight. And I regreased everything.

[Ray Cecil]

Rembrant wrote

lol. Be careful Ray, I've seen a lot of driveshafts land on the ground over the years doing burnouts and wheel chirps!

I cant help myself. Everytime I see a prius, something comes over me. Its very immature.

[Ray Cecil]

How bad is this? Should I replace this immediately?

[Gary Lewis]

If I remember correctly, that piece actually goes through that bracket, so can't fall out.  But you are going to have some movement there, and will want to replace it soon.

[Ray Cecil]

This piece doesnt go all the way through. If its supposed to, its badly broken. I can take that ring and spin it all the way around.

[Rembrant]

Ray Cecil wrote

This piece doesnt go all the way through. If its supposed to, its badly broken. I can take that ring and spin it all the way around.

It's just a plastic ring with a little lip on it. It should have a relatively snug fit on there...at least the original Ford ones did. I found the Moog aftermarket replacements were a little loose, so when I did my bushings I reused the old plastic parts. With such low mileage on the truck they were like new anyway.

I'd make a plan to replace them and the bushings. Not urgently, but soon-ish.

[Gary Lewis]

I agree with Cory - soonish.  

As for the replacement part, I use Energy Suspensions or Prothane's polyurethane bushings.  They will give a stiffer ride but more control.