Little Blue 82

[Ray Cecil]

I just went through davids writeup on FTE linked on garys writeup here on this site.

I think I need to get those heat tubes setup first.

Here is my carb. Its probably a mess....

[ArdWrknTrk]

Certainly doing you no favors with all those lines crimped off, and the truck is always going to be cold blooded because with a header there's no heat to the intake plenum floor.

Do you have the stock air cleaner hooked up for preheat?

[Ray Cecil]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Certainly doing you no favors with all those lines crimped off, and the truck is always going to be cold blooded because with a header there's no heat to the intake plenum floor.

Do you have the stock air cleaner hooked up for preheat?

Runs just fine. Not cold natured right now. Might be once the temps plummet.

I see where the heat tube goes. Ill take care of that soon.

The rest of those ports drove the California emission system. Yes, I half assed plugging the ports.

If anyone cares to tell me what is important, and what isnt, id listen

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, the choke only closes as far as you set it.  And the spec's on setting it are here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/carter-yfa-1bbl.html

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ray,
Post a picture of your vacuum routing sticker on the radiator support.
I'm not sure how it was in '82 when it came off the line.

BTW, what factory did your truck roll out of?

[Ray Cecil]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Ray,
Post a picture of your vacuum routing sticker on the radiator support.
I'm not sure how it was in '82 when it came off the line.

BTW, what factory did your truck roll out of?

I think it was San Jose California. Ill get the sticker shortly. The truck spent most its life in cali and I think nevada. Then a few years in indiana before I got it.

[Ray Cecil]

[Ray Cecil]

Alright. Pulled the air cleaner just now. Choke is nearly closed. About 1/8" gap on the side. As far as I understand, that should be about right.

Ill get the heat tube hooked up today hopefully.

[Ray Cecil]

Here is what I found.

After installing the heat tube, then running for 10 minutes, the choke never moved.

It has heat. It has 7 volts to electric assist. I ran it with air cleaner off. What am I missing. Could the guts of the choke be bad?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Try loosening the three screws on the choke cap and turning it.

You may not have the pin in the spring inside.
It needs to go in the loop on the end of the clockspring.

So what have you removed from the engine in an effort to eliminate all that emissions crap?

EGR?
Factory air cleaner?
Charcoal canisters?
Thermal vacuum switches?
Climate control reservoir?
???

Need to know what you still have, before I can tell you what you need to keep.

[Ray Cecil]

The only vacuum I need is:
Brake booster
HEI distributor
And the vacuum diaphragm on the choke.

I have no other accessories that use vacuum. Heater is all cable driven.

I tried turning the choke to full open once it warmed up. I am letting it cool down now. If the choke plate is still wide open once it cools, I should know something is wrong.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well according to your schematic there is a vacuum reservoir.

What about the blend door motor by the passenger hood hinge?
(IDK '83)

[Ray Cecil]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Well according to your schematic there is a vacuum reservoir.

What about the blend door motor by the passenger hood hinge?
(IDK '83)

The blend door is cable operated.

[Ray Cecil]

It cooled down. The choke was still wide open. I removed the choke to inspect the coil on the back. Its intact. However, if you shake the choke housing I hear a bunch of rattling. I wonder if some solder on the contact came loose.

[Ray Cecil]

Went ahead and ordered a new choke just to rule it out.

[Ray Cecil]

I just had a thought. The 7volts to the choke has to go somewhere. Meaning, what completes the ground side? Usually, its grounded to the engine through the contact with the intake. I have accidently isolated the carb from comleting this circuit. I have an Ash carb spacer, and rubber hose connecting the fuel line. The air cleaner bolts to the block....so there is that....

I may make up a ground strap just to make up for any lack of carb grounding.

[Ray Cecil]

Nevermind, I am an idiot. The carb mounting studs should ground the carb to the engine.

[Gary Lewis]

Ray - Some of the chokes did have a ground stud that has a wire to the carb itself.  4 bbbl Carters/Edelbrocks do.  But illustration of the YF doesn't show one.

Check the bi-metallic coil to see if it works by setting the choke cap aside and letting it get to room temp.  Then mark where the hooked end of the coil is and hold it over something hot.  The end should move.

And with the cap off check that the linkage works the choke smoothly.  It may be binding.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Put it in the freezer too.
What really matters is that it holds shut in the cold.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Nvm, I'm on my tablet now and see it is used for the bypass valve.

So, I think you should probably keep the thermal vacuum switch that provides manifold vacuum to the distributor in case of overheating.
If this is just a toy, no need, but if stuck in traffic it's nice to raise the idle (increase fan and pump speed)