Issues With Big Blue!?!?!

[Gary Lewis]

I saw the bit about trimming the bumper and also assumed that is where they accommodate the longer SD spring.  But, I'm thinking that with the Warn winch bumper I won't have to make any changes to it.

As for height, I forgot the 2" for going to an F350 from a 250.  Sure going to need the grab handles inside.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Then you can leave the rear end alone and have a level truck?

Maybe the nightmare cross member was a blessing in disguise.
You'll gain trail clearance, ride comfort and turning in one fell swoop.
(the pedant in me won't allow turning *radius* as it is actually reduced)

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, the turning radius is "improved".

But the rear is way too stiff.  Right now, with the sway bars disconnected, the front is rough and the rear is ROUGH!  So I need to take some leaves out of the springs.  Guess I'd better measure to see what the height difference is right now.

I'll be back - after two cups of coffee!

[85lebaront2]

I have grab handles in Darth because a 2WD crew cab must sit higher, probably to keep from high centering the frame. I saw one a number of years ago with no running boards or steps and it looked like you would need short ladder to get in. I know I can be alongside a lot of stock height 4WD trucks of most makes and be level with them in Darth, roof height is roughly 7' from the ground which still lets me get the car/light truck fare on the Chesapeake Bay bridge tunnel, break point is 8' high or commercial truck.

[salans7]

Gary Lewis wrote

Shaun - Good to know.  So, any 1986 to '94 4wd F350 w/a 460 or diesel would give me both the cross member and the suspension with king pins, and from '95-'97 would give me the same but with ball joints.  Right?

But, is there much reason to prefer either ball joints or king pins?

And, do we know that the cross member stayed the same for all those years, or is that something I'll determine with the MPC?

Exactly.

As was previously said, there is no real benefit to king pins versus ball joints. There are people who prefer kingpins, and those who prefer ball joints. If you were rock crawling with this axle, kingpins all day long. But for what you're intending to do, ball joints are fine. Your biggest issue with a ball joint axle is that it will cost you slightly more since you will have to buy new calipers. With the kingpin axle, you can keep your current calipers, provided they are the dual piston. Otherwise, the axles are the same. Just watch the rot on the passenger side u-bolt plate. Mine seems to be solid, but I still don't trust it. I'll probably end up with either a u-bolt flip, or welding on the replacement plate/panhard mount that Sky sells. Pitting is a real issue on axles from up north.

You'll have to check the MPC on the crossmember. Overall I'm sure it's the same, but there's probably an extra hole here, one less hole there, etc.

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - I don't mind the height at all, so welcome the 2 - 4" of lift this is likely to give BB.

Shaun - That's the problem with the MPC.  They change the part number, which means there is SOME difference in the part, but there is no way to tell what the difference is, nor whether it will interchange in spite of the difference.  But, I'll check out the part number about this time next week when I get the new MPC.

As for the king pin vs ball joint debate, I'm guessing that and the brake caliper question will be decided for me when/if I find a donor.  I'll take whatever it has.

And, toward that end, Craigslist doesn't show anything in a 200 mile radius from me that will work.  The only thing I've found is a running '93 F350 DRW for $3200.  But, it isn't 4wd.  So, the search continues.

[85lebaront2]

There is a very active batch of Ford groups on FB as you know, post a request in a few of them.

[Gary Lewis]

I will, but I want to know what the catalog says will work before I do.  Does that make sense?

[salans7]

I wish you were looking for one when I bought mine, the guy had a whole flatbed full of Ford Dana 60's, most were kingpins. I could have picked up one for me and one for you.

With that said, are you open to just an axle or are you trying to source the axle with a truck?

[Gary Lewis]

The main issue with Big Blue is the cross member, and it must be replaced.  So the suggestion has been to source a whole truck with both the cross member and the front suspension - and the correct 3.54 axle ratio.
 But, if that proves to be like finding a 1996 460 with SEFI and MAF, then I might turn to piecing it out.

What I'm really leery of is getting a cross member that has already been removed.  But I won't know how it was removed and, therefore, if the holes have been enlarged or a torch used.  So I want to remove the cross member myself.  Which sounds like I need at least a section of the frame or a whole truck.

[85lebaront2]

So you are now hunting unicorns?

[Gary Lewis]

Big Blue's front wheel well opening is ~36" and the rear is 39 3/4" off the ground.  But I plan to take leaves out of the rear, so it'll come down some.  I wonder how much?

[Gary Lewis]

85lebaront2 wrote

So you are now hunting unicorns?

Yep.  

[Nothing Special]

Gary Lewis wrote

....  So the suggestion has been to source a whole truck with both the cross member and the front suspension - and the correct 3.54 axle ratio....

I wouldn't sweat the gear ratio too much.  If you are planning on putting a locker in it you'll be pulling the ring gear out anyway.  It's not a ton more work or expense to put a new ring and pinion in (but sure, get the 3.54 of you can find it)

[Gary Lewis]

Good point. So here's my thinking of priorities:

1. Cross Member: I have to have that, so if I can't find a whole truck that has it as well as the axle and suspension then I'll try to buy just a cross member.
2. Front Axle/Suspension: If I can find a truck with the right cross member and the D60 front axle, regardless of king pin/ball joint or F350/SuperDuty spring I'll go with that.
3. Ratio: I want a 3.54 if possible.
4. Springs: If the truck has the SD springs then that's even better.

Does that make sense?

[85lebaront2]

Gary, try a friendly junk yard, their Hollander interchange may show what crass members will work.

[Gary Lewis]

Good idea, Bill.  But, I called back to the one I went to last week and they said their's doesn't cover cross members.  

[salans7]

Gary Lewis wrote

<li> Springs: If the truck has the SD springs then that's even better.</li>
</ol>
<p>
Does that make sense?

SD springs stands for 99-04 Super Duty, as in 1999-2004 F350. You're not gonna find a truck with those already installed unless you buy a truck that has an RSK installed. Should be pretty obvious if you come across that.

What if one of us happens to come across an axle that is out of your 200 mile range? Are you willing to travel?

[Gary Lewis]

I don't understand what you mean about not finding a truck with those already installed unless you buy a truck that has an RSK installed.  But, I think what you are saying is that by '99 the cross member won't be what I need, so I'll be looking for an earlier truck, which isn't likely to have those springs.  Am I right?

As for an axle, if it an axle and springs, meaning everything I need save for the cross member, then I'd seriously consider hooking up the trailer and heading out - depending on the price.  But, I don't want to be hasty as I really haven't started looking here yet.  So it would depend on price, content, and timing.

Does that make sense?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary,
I think you are looking for an '86 to '91 Truck for kingpins or a '92-'96 truck for ball joints with bolt on calipers.
The Super duty series didn't begin until the 1999 model year.
But a truck this late would have an incompatible metric bolt circle for the front hubs.

So you would never find a compatible D60 front axle with the Superduty springs on the same stock truck.
You might find an F-350 where someone has already done an RSK and converted to the better riding Superduty springs.