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I understand in a general sort of way that (after cleaning) the brittle ABS type plastics should receive SEM "sand free" which slightly melts the plastic and you apply the color before it's dry, and all the softer plastics should receive the "adhesion promoter" type primer...
My question is about the dash shell. It is a brittle ABS type plastic, but they are painted from the factory rather than molded out of colored plastic like the A pillar trims. So I am painting over paint. Do I use sand free or adhesion promoter? Trying not to get too derailed on my 81, but if I have to pull the dash shell to get to the HVAC controller, blend door etc., I might as well paint my "good" dash shell and put that back in...
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD
STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2 |
I have painted a lot of plastic over my restoration years. Hard plastics, I prep just like metal, either prep solvent or lacquer. Soft vinyls, I use acrylic enamel reducer. So, I will use lacquer thinner to prep hard plastics. I use Colorbond paints and they stick like the dickens. On a dash, I clean it with lacquer thinner. Then I use a UV protectant clear after the color has been sprayed.
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance 1982 F100 Flareside 1983 Bronco |
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In reply to this post by Ford F834
If I remember correctly, SEM says to test the part to see if it softens with Sand Free. But you already know it is brittle ABS, so I guess there's no need to test. As for the fact that it is painted, I'd still use Sand Free. However, if you want you could call SEM and ask. I did some time ago and found them easy to talk to.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Ford F834
With my door and dash face I follow this rough process
- Wash - Dry - Acetone wipe - SEM 77723 XXX Adhesion Promoter light mist to sit 5 mins - SEM 77723 XXX Adhesion Promoter spray to sit 10 mins - 2-4 coats of SEM Canyon Red Spray - Light mist of SEM 77723 XXX Adhesion Promoter and sit till the next day. I sanded where it was needed and cleaned it up where I had to. If you look at my photo gallery you "should" be able to see the door panels throughout. I haven't posted and pictures of the dash yet. It's still in pieces. For my dash I have all the materials and will follow this LINK. That's probably going to be December when I start. I have most of the materials except the dash pad filler, primer and rubber undercoat. I want an OEM dash and not a JDK dash from LMCTruck. They aren't the same dash. Hopefully this helps people and doesn't confuse. If needed I can get more pictures of my current work and post. Just let me know.
1986 F150 XLT Lariat, 4X2, 351W, 1406 Edelbrock Carb - Currently going through an engine rebuild through a "Father/Son Project"
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I have been working on & off, mostly off lately, on my dash pad.
You can read what I used and what I found did not work and did work here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1410881-new-owner-1980-f100-flare-side-24.html Goes for a few pages and has other stuff in between as I let it setup before working on it again. What I started with, the worst of 2 I have so if it turned out junk just no big loss. After a few failed tries I am at this point. I was looking for something to add "texture" before painting and may of found it in the links. Looking forward to your dash pad work. Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1 81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100 |
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Subscribed, because hopefully I'll have a few interior '90 parts from Gary's 'huck' when he parts it.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Fuzz, let me give you the downside of what you are doing. The problem is the way the different materials will contract and expand. The different rate will cause the cracks to show up again. You may still be happy in the long run. But trying to use similar materials, to the material of which you are repairing ,will pay dividends later.
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance 1982 F100 Flareside 1983 Bronco |
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Put Your wants in so I don’t trash or break anything. 😉
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by PetesPonies
Thanks for the responses! I painted the dash shell today and did two small trial spots one using the sand free and one without. The main difference that I saw was the area without sand free was less even and seemed to have pin holes where the paint did not want to stick. The sand free did not melt or soften the surface that I could detect. It dried extremely fast and did not leave a film like the adhesion promoters do (clear primer coat). After the test spots dried I sprayed it with sand free one section at a time and top coated it. I did a total of three top coats and overall I'm pretty happy with the results. It was a color change from medium blue to black. I used Duplicolor vinyl and fabric top coat because it is half the price of SEM, it's available locally, and I like the satin sheen when finished. It is not too glossy nor too flat. I have no idea how it will hold up since I did not buy and use every step of the SEM system. But I wanted to get it done, and the dash is pretty low wear and tear. I have a black glove box door, black ash tray, black kick panels and black door panels. My A pillars are charcoal. They will get sand free and black Duplicolor tomorrow.
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD
STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2 |
The dash is low wear and tear, true . . .but extremely subject to UV torture and throw in some heat for god measure.
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance 1982 F100 Flareside 1983 Bronco |
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gary,
I told you I want the pad that goes above the radio and glove box. And the drivers side seat belts. And the wiper switch and speed governor. I'm going to find a cheap motor on eBay or somewhere else.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Yep, but nothing else?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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SEM also make a prep for vinyl, I believe
1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Maybe the filler/valance between grille and bumper if it is straight.
I found my wiper problem. A pin backed out of the lower plug.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Glad to hear that Jim. Probably been that way for a while.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Jim - Glad you found the problem.
I have the following out/off. Let's see if that's what you want: Driver's seat belts. These things are nasty as the mice have had a good life in the huck,
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No A pillar trim or corner trim in this cab?
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance 1982 F100 Flareside 1983 Bronco |
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Yes, but it is a '90 and that stuff is different. I'm not sure of what all the differences are, but one is that the shoulder belt winder is at a different location. However, I can post a pic of the Bullnose one by this one if you want.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I guess it couldn't hurt, how about the A pillar? different too?
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance 1982 F100 Flareside 1983 Bronco |
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Yes, the A pillars are different as well. I'll try to remember to take pics of both, side by side, and post them tomorrow. But, I don't think the later ones can be used, although it would be cool if they could be. On Sat, Nov 4, 2017 at 8:26 PM, PetesPonies [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote: I guess it couldn't hurt, how about the A pillar? different too?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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