Inspect Your Drip Rails!

[ArdWrknTrk]

You've got a multiprocess welder now.
You'll be finding all kind of 'wishes' & 'want's'
The white goatskin Hardy driving gloves are nice for MIG and TIG at $5.99.

I was looking at the Titanium and Vulcan welders the other day when I stopped into Horrid Fate to stock up on sundries and look at multimeters.
Of course not on shelf and the pick tag didn't even have info for it on the back (only the clamp meters?)
They had a good closeout on 5" H&L purple sanding discs, but I couldn't find anything over 120.

[swampedout]

Ooo I like the looks of that patch weld! As some of these guys know, Ive been itching for a budget MIG box and seeing some clean body work accomplished is good to know.

I will buy a lot of stuff from HF but not their blades, bits or discs. Ive burnt through some of their expendables way too quickly, even for how cheap they are. I was looking through the Cripe site and saw a lot of stuff I could use at home and at work.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Sam, The purple Admiral paper seemed too good not to give a try, but generally I agree.
Usually I get the 50 pack of Mirka paper from Amazon, because my local supplier dropped Klingspor.
Certainly Horrid Fate grinding/cutting discs are not great if you spend more time changing them than they last.

You'll like Cripes for things like Bosch blades, Williams, Armstrong and Gearwrench combinations and sockets.
Multi pack DeWalt cutting, grinding and flap wheels are a real bargain... especially if you combine shipping.
And check those prices on stout Hobart welding F-clamps!

I got a set of casters at HF because I'm making a dolly for my new spindle chapter.
Another pair of those gloves and a couple of spools of ER-71 because I got into my last one the other day.
A cheap pack of hex chucking drill bits, the orange handled pullsaw because I hit a screw in a cabinet.
Big zip ties, convolute wire loom in a couple of sizes,adhesive shrink tube, couple of tubes of epoxy, a Storehouse assortment of e clips and roll pins.
$100 doesn't go far anymore.....  

Honestly, I don't need any more tools.
HF are really stepping up their game with the ICON hand tool line though!

(sorry for the hijack)

[1986F150Six]

I just ran across this and thought it would be appropriate to post here. Swallow hard,,,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-97-Ford-F100-F150-F250-F350-80-96-BRONCO-COMPLETE-Drip-rail-Moldings-ASSEMBLY/223009901870?hash=item33ec6d0d2e:g:SUEAAOSwTbVbGfW5

[CRittaler]

I'm happy with it!  I don't think I did too badly considering it's literally my 3rd time welding with my setup and the second time with gas (the first gas one being test welds on scrap).

The passenger side is a lot rustier so I've put things on hold until I can get some rust converter on Payday.







Thankfully I was able to get the bright work off without damaging it.

A common downfall of the welder I bought is actually the regulator for the gas.  They are known to be crappy based off of the reviews I've read.  I'm running it on 110V as my garage doesn't have 220V.  I have a couple 4" flap discs from HF and they have been fine so far, though they have not seen much use.

[Lima Delta]

Well this thread had me inspecting my drip rails last night and they'll need a little work this summer. Just to clarify - after cleaning them up, should they get paint then sealer? Or is it better to put the paint on clean metal and then paint over the sealer?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I always put sealer on bare metal, or in rare cases over acid etch epoxy primer.
I would never trust it bonding to paint (or even regular sandable primer)

[Lima Delta]

I wonder... Instead of sealant, what about putting down a couple of coats of POR-15 rust preventative coating?
I've used it here and there and man, does it stick to a well prepared surface. It takes paint well and once cured, it's a hard polymer. I've never seen it crack or come off.

[Machspeed]

Lima Delta wrote

Well this thread had me inspecting my drip rails last night and they'll need a little work this summer. Just to clarify - after cleaning them up, should they get paint then sealer? Or is it better to put the paint on clean metal and then paint over the sealer?

Epoxy primer, sealant, 2k sandable primer and finally paint. That was the process I used under the advise of some very knowledgeable paint and body friends. Regarding POR-15, not sure I'd go that route on an open body panel. I've read so many mixed things on it that I'd use it only in relatively hidden areas. I'll be using it inside my doors very soon.