Inspect Your Drip Rails!

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I borrowed the gun.  It worked well, but the adhesive is pricey and the gun is expensive.

[Machspeed]

Jim, I think I gave around $55 for mine off Amazon several years ago. It's gone up in price. It is not the 3M gun though, rather an aftermarket, but one of good quality.  

[MarkF100]

I just did the area under the cowl on my 83. Dug all of the old seam sealant out, sanded and, sprayed rust inhibitor. I resealed with All Around seam sealant and sprayed again with rust inhibitor. After seeing this post, I dug out the drip rails.  Oh wow! Big holes. I used what was left of the seam sealant. It rained today and no water up front. Did see a few drips in the back of the cab. Will have to go further with repairs on the rails once the cab is off of the frame before the paint job. That 3M seam sealer may be the way to go. The price doesn't seem to be so high when you consider what is at stake. Thanks for the heads up

[Rembrant]

This truck just popped up for sale in Canada. Check out the drip rails...

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/st-catharines/1980-ford-f-150-4x4/1544318790?undefined

[Gary Lewis]

And that's just the damage you can SEE!  

[ArdWrknTrk]

I had a spot on my passenger side B-pillar rust out because the doubled up rear of the door opening was not caulked at the top.

That may be because my rack hangs beyond the drip rails and more water than usual would fall into the seam.
It was more challenging to fix because you can't get at the back of it.

[Machspeed]

Glad I didn't have that mess to clean up. For sure, I'd still be working on it.

[1986F150Six]

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-EOTZ-1051700-RAIL-ROOF-SIDE/dp/B000O0P1R8

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-84-91-F-250-Roof-Drip-Rail-Right-EOTZ1051700A/164598530706?epid=1228282869&hash=item2652d64292:i:164598530706

[CRittaler]

I just dug the sealant out of my driverside one.  Hit a couplerust spots near it with the wheel and poof! Instant hole.

[Gary Lewis]

So, what's the plan, Chris?  How are you going to fill the holes?

[CRittaler]

I have a Titanium 200 multiprocess welder from Harbor Freight that I bought over a year ago to use on my Samurai that is still in the box.

I have welded exactly once in my life and it was on exhaust, and it leaked badly lol.  I plan on ordering some 18GA sheet metal that I will practice with just doing some tack stitching to get the welder dialed in before cutting out the rust.

Once I have it welded up I am probably going to get a can of rust converter or encapsulant and a cavity spray nozzle to coat the inside of the A pillar and whatever I can get at inside the layers of metal above the doors.  Have to do it after unless the end coating is weld through, which I doubt.

Passenger side has fewer holes so far, but is encroaching on the windshield.

[Gary Lewis]

Welding thin metal isn't easy, and it is especially difficult if the metal might be rusted on the back side.  Good luck!  

[ArdWrknTrk]

 Brazing might be a better answer if you have oxy-fuel.
I imagine that will be difficult with only a multi-process machine.

For sure brass won't rust through in the future.

[CRittaler]

no oxy fuel here, I don't even have air tools, it's all hand tools or electric.  I don't even have gas for the welder, it's just a simple flux core.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's going to be a challenge to piece that back in with FC.
You can't really get behind it with a copper spoon or another heat sink.

My only advice would be to ding it down with a pick and make a bunch of tacks.
Then brush all the flux and smoke off before adding more tacks.
Eventually getting the whole thing welded in.

Two other ideas.
Use antispatter to keep from having to chip a bunch of bb's off.
Be SURE to completely cover the windshield and any other glass.

[CRittaler]

Yeah, I fully expect it to be like 900,000 tack welds.  The metal there in general is too thin to risk pulling a bead.  I've considered getting gas just to take advantage of the tig feature instead of mig, but I'm going to practice on some scrap metal of roughly the same thickness first.

[ArdWrknTrk]

"MIG" -just like tig- is X Inert Gas.
MIG is a process using solid wire with (usually) an argon/CO2 mix.

Flux Core seems to get a lot more penetration for the same amp settings as MIG, but I assume that's down to not having slag insulating the pool and bead.

Granted, my FCAW is the lunchbox Titanium 125 but I definitely can't run a bead on body metal and still get decent fusion, even with .030 wire.
Not that I make any claims at being a weldor.    

Practice, practice, practice and don't be afraid to experiment with the settings.
I'm not sure if your machine is synergetic or not.

[CRittaler]

Finally had some time to practice the welding.  I don't think I did terribly, but there is room for improvement.

My setup is a Harbor Freight Titanium Unlimited 200 multi-purpose welder.  I picked up some 75/25 mix gas from a local welding supply and some 0.023 solid core.



After some practice getting used to the welder I decided to dive head first.







A grinder and paint make me the welder I aint.

[ArdWrknTrk]

You did a great job!
I don't think I've ever seen a roof rusted out like that, with the drip rail still solid.  

I might suggest that flap wheels make blending in the weld a lot easier than a grinding disc.
The ones that are already mounted on a 5/8-11 boss are real handy.
I get mine from Cripe Distributing in Idaho.
They offer great deals on cutting, grinding, sanding disposables.
Drills, blades, welding clamps and hand tools.
If you purchase multiple items ask them to combine shipping.
(They also have an eBay storefront, but can't offer quite the same deals)

[CRittaler]

Thanks!

My grinder has a sander attachment, so that was with a 50grit 4" disc because I only have the 4" grinder.

I did the cutting with a dremel and a 1" cutoff wheel lol.

The whole top of the roof is rust so once I can get the truck back outside I plan to hit it lightly with a 180 grit to knock off the scale and then spray it with a rust converter and some paint.

My plan for the inside of the roof is to use some of the eastwood internal chassis sealer to hopefully encapsulate any remaining rust in those corners.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&gclid=CjwKCAjwvMqDBhB8EiwA2iSmPByCmt2oWTMCLuApVFmxlItRiXksyvkWRV01rE8ft1nQdWPmy0v5LBoCmBEQAvD_BwE