Ignition Coil input voltage engine running

[Jesse3877]

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The author has deleted this message.

[Jesse3877]

<nabble_embed>https://drive.google.com/file/d/10oT7Uv3OkQAzbSPH5YctgTDbDYo9-tLF/view?usp=sharing</nabble_embed>

I may have goofed the first link. Try this one please.

[Jesse3877]

<nabble_embed>https://drive.google.com/file/d/10oT7Uv3OkQAzbSPH5YctgTDbDYo9-tLF/view?usp=sharing</nabble_embed>

[ArdWrknTrk]

What are you trying to show us Jesse?

Is it a photo or a file?

[Jesse3877]

Hello,

I tried to delete the post but it appears I just removed one comment and not the whole topic. I tried, unsuccessful, to embed a link to a google drive video I made. I referenced the FAQ on how to attach links and embed but I obviously don’t know what I’m doing. 

Basically the video shows this:

1. Start wire on “S” terminal starter solenoid disconnected (engine off tests)

- key in run position = 7vdc at coil 

-key in start position= 11vdc at coil 

-key snaps back to run= 7vdc at coil 

This appears normal. Resistor wire drops voltage in run position, granted there is no load as engine is not running. 

2. Reconnect “S” wire on starter solenoid (engine on tests)

- key in run position= 7v at coil

- key in start position- 11v at coil

- key snaps back to run position= 11v

As you can see, when the engine is running, I’m getting full battery power at the coil +. It’s acting like it’s not going through the resistor wire. I know the resistor wire exists as shown in value above. I thought maybe the ignition switch was out of sorts but it functions normally with engine not running. 

So there is something that is happening in the system that when it has a load the resistor wire is acting like a regular piece of wire...

If anyone has any ideas I appreciate your time. I’m assuming it’s not ideal for the ICM and coil to be getting 11v all the time while driving around. 

On Jun 5, 2020, at 3:05 PM, ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <ml+[hidden email]> wrote:

What are you trying to show us Jesse?

Is it a photo or a file?

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[ArdWrknTrk]

No, it's not ideal.

One thing Gary has pointed out is that with time the key return gets gummed up.
You might check that if you manually return the key to 'run' you're still getting the resistor wire bypassed.

The contact shoes in the ignition switch do seem to have some overlap.

[Jesse3877]

What is interesting is that i can play with the key as much as I want by going from Run, Start, and back to Run, and it always works as suppose to. There is resisted voltage drop(7Vdc) in run position after starting. I isolate the starter while doing this so i'm not shutting engine on and off. This test should mean that my ignition switch is working correctly right? Does the switch care if the engine is actually running?

[ArdWrknTrk]

The switch doesn't care, but the ignition is sinking current, so you will see 12v in run (with no spark) but around 7.5v with the engine running.