ID 2150 carburetor

[jdavidsmi]

I believe I have fixed the fuel delivery problem, new pickup and float in tank, cleaned inside the tank, new fuel pump and all new flexible gas lines and clamps. so now I want to give the carburetor a good cleaning and put in a kit.
The problem I have is my carburetor does not have a tag hanging on it any where I can find. There is a stamp on the choke housing E3TE-AA, so I'm guessing its a E3TE

There is also a stamp number left side of the base where it mounts to the manifold. looks like 223

And a stamped number on the right base behind the linkage. 4TA
 
Here are a couple  more photos.

Front

Right Side

Top

Left side
I could not get a good picture of the back.
since I'm not sure about anything other than its a Motorcraft 2150, which rebuild kit should I go with?

David

[Gary Lewis]

David - I think the E3TA-AA is the number for the choke pull-off, not for the carb.  It looks like it is stamped on the pull-off.

As for what kit, I would think you can find a kit that matches your application, meaning what year the truck is, what engine, etc.

But, I don't know that info.  If I did, like if you had it in your signature, I might be able to find your carb's number in the catalog.  However, if you could find the calibration number, which is usually on the valve cover, it would be easy.  The calibration # looks like 4-51D-R0D.

[85lebaront2]

Since you do not say what truck or engine, I will tell you what I can. E4TA is the prefix number for the carburetor, there should be a - x letter, so the complete number would be E4TA-9510-x. Example here:

[Gary Lewis]

The first hit in the catalog that I have for a 1984 F-series w/a 302, which is what my memory says we are dealing with, is as shown below.  The actual part number starts with E4TE, but the number on the part would be E4TE.

So, David, can you find a number like that on the carb body itself?  Not on a bolt-on part as that number goes for that part.  If not, can you find the calibration number, which will probably be on a sticker on the valve cover?  And, if both of those fail then tell us everything about the truck, meaning year, engine, transmission, 2 or 4wd, and if it was a CA truck or high altitude.  (And if that were in your signature we wouldn't have to ask again.  )

[jdavidsmi]

I have updated my signature with everything I know, and I think I may have found the calibration sticker but its on the back end of the valve cover. Could not get a picture that was clear enough to see. I will get an inspection mirror and try again tomorrow. Same for looking for a casting stamp on the carburetor. I may end up just pulling them off and looking.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm guessing that someone swapped the valve covers.  The sticker is usually on the front end of the passenger's side one, so is it on the back end of the driver's side?

If you can find the calibration # I can tell you a lot about the carb.

[Gary Lewis]

Unfortunately your signature hasn't shown up yet, so maybe you could just tell us the details about the truck?

But, hopefully you found the calibration code today.  To give you an idea what can be found if you know the calibration code, let's use code # 4-54R-R12, which is for some of the 1984 & 85 CA trucks.  I have a book called 1985 Car & Truck Engine/Emissions Facts Book Summary, which has the information shown below for that calibration code.  (Note: I'll be placing the pdf's of this calibration code as well as the 11 others I scanned today on pages on the website.  And the pdf's are very sharp/crisp.)




And then from the catalog I have the calibration parts list for that calibration code:




And then if someone really needs the deep detail on one of the carbs I can post the 4 pages from the catalog that give the scoop.  For instance, notice that the parts list shows the carb # as 95.2AP.  So, you go down the AP column on this page and following ones from the catalog.

[jdavidsmi]

Sorry its been a few days, we have been straight out for the last week getting the corn harvested.
Anyway, I purchased the truck a couple of months ago, the kid I got it from had no idea about the motor or really much of anything else. He just needed the money, but I did check and he did have a clear title. It had a key-off electrical short that you guys helped me straighten out.

 Its a 1984 F150 XL, Red and primer. With a 117 wheel base, 4x4 with 4 speed manual, and I believe a ford 8.8 rear end. 302 v8 with 2 b motorcraft carburetor. factory AC. the odometer says 76250 so it could be 176250 or more.
 
 I found the original owners manual stuffed under the seat in a box of "used parts". The original owner had written the Vin # in the book. On the back inside cover was the "note" bought motor 1-27-03, motor had 76000 on it, truck had 55,500 when motor put in. but nothing saying what year the motor was.

After looking all over the carburetor and not seeing any more Numbers, I pulled the carburetor off and still could not find any new numbers anywhere. I used a mirror and looked at the sticker on the drivers side valve cover and its completely unreadable. And the same for the one on the pass side.
So I'm back to where I started, the local NAPA "ford" guy has ordered me a gasket kit for 1984 302 2150, and we will go from there.

[Gary Lewis]

These carbs were very consistent in their gaskets, needles and seats, power valves, etc. So I think that kit will work.

[PetesPonies]

Was going to say the exact same thing. With the parts you will be replacing, along with cleaning, most any of the 2150 kits will work.

[jdavidsmi]

It's been a while but I got the kit installed, and it started right up. According to the instruction sheet mine is a 2150A, with feedback control.
I was surprised by the amount of dirt, the needle-screen was all but stopped up, and there was a bunch in the bottom of the bowl. my guess is the PO had removed the filter.

I have a question about the "pump relief valve assembly"  as you can see in the picture the top is broken off, since it is not being used should the hole in the top be plugged?

[Gary Lewis]

David - Glad you got it going. But I don’t know what that valve does. Some online suggest it keeps the accelerator pump from working Whalen vacuum is supplied, but I haven’t found a definitive answer. Perhaps Bill/1985LebaronT2 knows?

[Ken Blythen]

It doesn't prevent the accelerator pump from working as such, but changes the amount of fuel discharged, according to engine temperature.
When cold, the pump discharges it's full volume; then when warmed up the pump volume is reduced, via a PVS.

AFAIK, any dirt that gets in that hole cannot go further, as long as the diaphragm is intact.

My truck originally had a feedback 2150A carb, on a 302.........and as well as having that valve, it also still had the three linkage holes for varying the accelerator pump stroke.

[Gary Lewis]

Ken - Thanks for the info. That makes sense. 👍

[jdavidsmi]

As far as I know the diaphragm is intact.  So I'm going to leave out alone.
On to the next onion layer.

[Gary Lewis]

Good plan, Stan. Hope you like onion rings. 😉

[LARIAT 85]

From the emissions diagram, I see that cold fast idle is to be set at 2000 RPM.  

Why would Ford set it so high?  I would *think* that cranking up a cold engine in the middle of Winter with an immediate idle of 2000 RPM would be bad for the engine?

I have mine set to 1500 RPM, and sometimes I think even that is a little high.  I was thinking about trying it at 1250 RPM.  This way, fast idle at cold start isn't so high, and the fast idle steps will be even at 1250, step down to 1000, then dropping to normal idle at 750 RPM.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, 2000 for a cold fast-idle isn’t unusual.  And yes, it couldn’t be good for the engine. But if your engine gets along with lower RPM at each step then that has to be better.

[85lebaront2]

From what I remember about fast idle specs, Ford used to call for the setting on the second step (on 2100 and 4100 models where the arrow is) to be @ XXXX rpm hot. Darth specified 2200 rpm on the highest step with the engine warmed up and the EGR disconnected and the hose plugged.

[LARIAT 85]

How can you set the cold fast idle speed when the engine is HOT?

I set mine by quickly adjusting the fast idle speed screw as soon as the engine was started cold. You have to hurry, because the idle speed will quickly increase as the engine begins to warm up.

I just went out and drove Lucille and this is my observation:

My cold fast idle is set at 1500 RPM.  That is, it initially *starts* there, but then the engine will slowly climb up in RPM if the engine is allowed to run without disturbing it.  In fact, it will usually climb up to 1750 RPM within 30 seconds or so, which is when I go ahead and gently blip the throttle to get the idle speed down to the next lower step of 1000 RPM.  (This is usually when I drive away.  As the engine warms up even more, the idle speed will return to the normal curb idle of 750 RPM.)

The 2000 RPM "hot" setting must be what Ford used to get an easier, more consistent adjustment without rushing through the process? i.e. if the "hot" setting is set to 2000 RPM, then perhaps the engine will start at 1750 RPM when the engine is cold?

Is that how it works?