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TJmac has no divider bars on his sliding rear window so can't lock the window closed. And it'll leak in the rain. I have a pair of them, as shown below, and they came off the spare sliding window I have quite easily. But they left behind what looks like a plastic "U" that is adhered to the glass and is NOT coming off.
I can't find that "U" in the catalog, nor can I find a mention of it in the shop manual, although maybe I'm missing something. The glass measures .130" and the channel measures .120". So what might he use to attach the dividers to the glass? I'm going to tag several people that I think might have suggestions, but please give us your thoughts even if you aren't tagged.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Not to be captain obvious, but we're sure that the existing windows are stock or at least OEM? Not that I have much experience, but I have seen aftermarket sliding windows as an upgrade for plain windows.
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Good question, but other than the radio and tires/wheels having been changed out this thing is pretty much stock. It is a very well optioned base level with A/C, speed control, underhood light, gauges not idiot lights, bumperettes, and even auto-locking front hubs. So I'm pretty sure that the rear window is from the factory as it looks just like the one on Big Blue.
I'm wondering if some adhesive squirted into the dividers might do. Maybe an epoxy?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I would just use some clear silicone Gary. They'll never come off again, even if you want them to;). Trick is to get the right amount...
I'd probably over do it just a little and wipe off the excess.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold. 1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021. 1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995 |
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Interesting, Cory. I wouldn't have thought that RTV would hold it. But TJ just bought a new mirror glass for the right outside mirror and it was mounted with RTV. So maybe it holds well?
Cool! Thanks. That should be easy and even if he doesn't get all of it off it won't be obvious.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gary, you're not going to send him that crappy plastic latch (are you?!? )
CRL Dvl2 is under $10 and you can Amazon Prime it there if they are in your addresses.... 💡 Silicone will be fine. Thoroughly clean with isopropyl alcohol first, and make sure it doesn't get squished into the tracks...
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Ok, two votes for silicone. Sounds good to me.
Jim - You are spoiling my surprise, although TJ probably wouldn't have known the difference. The metal CRL latch will be here Friday, and I'll install it before sending the package. When I cleaned the plastic latch up it was wobbly, so I knew it wasn't long for this world and ordered the CRL one. Easy peasy as it was in my Orders/Returns list since I have one on Big Blue 'cause the plastic one did as all of them do and broke off.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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He would know the difference about a week after he installed the latch bars!
I can see why you'd want to do it 'in house' I can't imagine how valuable I've found that thing over the years since I changed it out.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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In reply to this post by ratdude747
Larry, you can tell the difference from a factory slider because the factory one goes all the way into the gasket (groove is maybe 9/16"?)
Aftermarket sliders (like my CRL) have a flange that fits the stock single glazed gasket.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Yep, I'm sure he would have found out how weak the plastic latches are quite quickly. I was expecting it to break off as I cleaned it.
What happened with us was that one of us reached back and used the plastic latch to pull the window closed. But the latch came off immediately. Unfortunately we were on a trip and had to figure a way to latch it for the rest of the trip. It wasn't easy but it worked.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Darth's slider is a single section and doesn't have a latch, I guess with the motor and cable it isn't needed.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I have the same divider bars in my back window, I tried to remove them, eventually using both hands to prior them off the glass. "No way", it was like they were caulked in there.
I removed them from the glass by separating the lower portion of the divider, at the very bottom, they just peeled off, only a dab of caulk at the very bottom of the glass and divider. Reinstalled them, tried to remove them as one piece again and they held in there tight. One more thing, the glass had a gasket around it, like the quarter glass have.
1981 F150 4x2 C6 Flareside 302
1986 F150 4x2 Flareside T170RTS 302 Efi |
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Bill - Do you read lips?
dionden - I'd wondered about pulling the glass out, but then discovered that these dividers came off very easily. So I'm thinking it'll be easier to put them on with RTV and call it a day. As was said, clean things extremely well, apply the RTV sparingly, and put them in place. Then push them together by pushing on the outside edges of the sliding glass, making sure they line up well and the glass seats fully. Let it set overnight and they should be good to go.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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