Fog Light Bezel, Switch, etc

[LARIAT 85]

Another option would be to use a Fog Lamp switch from a 1979 - 1986 Mustang.  While it's not entirely correct, it *is* a period-correct Ford piece, and uses the exact same script as the 1980 - 1986 bezel plate AND the exact same switch cap.  

http://www.foxresto.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/muCScvgv8MgA7Us2Cc_1_Eg.jpg

https://photo.cargigi.com/adam/Dealers/65560/118013070/photo/201709270920-1fabp27m3ef171229-72.jpg

http://image.mustangmonthly.com/f/9995906+w750+st0/mump_0806_05_z+1984_ford_mustang_GT_convertible+.jpg


The Mustang switch bezel has a nifty light that illuminates when the fog lamps are turned on.  This will look right at home mounted under the left side of the dashboard, just as it was on the Mustangs.  

In fact, the late 1970s full-size trucks used a very similar switch, but without the indicator light.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/870873-pics-of-factory-fog-lights-and-dash-switch.html

[Gary Lewis]

Rick - That actually looks like a good option.  Especially if the bezel doesn't turn out good or we can't find a replacement switch.

On the switch, I've looked the tank switch over closely (pics below) and don't see an easy way to make it work.  It mounts with an arm off to the side, and I can't figure out how to make that work.

However, you can see in the pics that the arm is spot-welded to the face of the switch.  So it is possible we can un-bend the tabs that hold the face on, then drill the spot-welds out, tap the face to take something like a #10 screw, and put the face back on.  Then open up the D-shaped hole to take the rocker on the back of the arm, drill two holes, and mount the switch.  And, the recess on the back of the dash looks to be just the right size to take that switch.

But, all of that is if my other efforts are in vain.  I've contacted the following:

Grainger Industrial Supply: Sent them an email with Jonathan's pics and explained what we need.

Allied Electronics: ditto

Digikey: ditto and they've already responded that they don't have what we need, which didn't surprise me as they are mostly electronics, meaning miniature switches.

[reamer]

Gary
in the 6th post back, (your last drawing with measurements)
the lower stud (by the "on" position) is correct,
the upper stud, flip your measurements (left side measurement to the right side).
Right side measurement to the Left and we may be good to go!

Just looked up Foxresto....no listing of an independent "fog light" switch...

Thanks
Ron

[Gary Lewis]

Good catch, Ron.  Try the one below, although things shifted a couple of thou, I think they are close enough.  Agree?

Also, how long are the studs on yours?  And, how thick is the rubber?  My measurements say that the instrument bezel is .125" thick, and a 1/4-28 nut is .183, so that's .308".  With the studs at .500" that leaves maybe .10" sticking out of the nut, but it appears there's plenty of room.  What do you think?

And, are we ready to convert this to .stl?  That was the file format you submitted last time - right?

[reamer]

Overall height (from bezel face bead to end of stud) is 0.47"
The rubber gasket is 0.042" thick

[Gary Lewis]

Then the studs will be overly long.  However, there's more than enough room below the instrument bezel to accommodate the length, so I don't think it will be a problem.

Can you get me some dimensions on the rubber?  I could at least draw it up in case someone wants to make them.

[reamer]

Update for all interested...

The .stl file has be uploaded to the printer, they say 4-5 day lead time.
I should have a sample around first of the year!

[Gary Lewis]

Wonderful!  Do you have a guestimate on what it'll cost?

[FuzzFace2]

Any one look over this site for the switch
https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/toggle-switches/201
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nkk-switches/M2011E3S1W01/360-3237-ND/1049250
Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

I recently posted:

  But, all of that is if my other efforts are in vain.  I've contacted the following:

Grainger Industrial Supply: Sent them an email with Jonathan's pics and explained what we need.

Allied Electronics: ditto

Digikey: ditto and they've already responded that they don't have what we need, which didn't surprise me as they are mostly electronics, meaning miniature switches.

Subsequently Allied came back and said "We have 2,048 switches.  You can pick the one you want and order on-line."    I've ordered a lot of stuff from Allied over the years, but I'm done.  As for simple help and you get a response like that!?

So we still have Granger as a possibility.  Beyond that, I think I'll try to modify a tank switch.

[reamer]

I'm thinking we can use any switch you want.... We don't have to "play by the rules" meaning having to use a FORD style plug and a particular mount.
A flat handle toggle will do, and with some minor grinding to fit the Ford chrome knob, should be good to go?

Gary has already ed-u-macated us on the use of relays, so "what happens behind the dash. stays behind the dash" (as long as it look good from the front).....

Here's one with a long throw, grind the sides down so the factory knob fits....
https://www.delcity.net/store/Bat-Handle-Toggle-Switch/p_789184.h_789189

[Gary Lewis]

Ron - I agree we don't have to use a stock-style switch, especially since none are available.  But, I'm not sure how well the switch you linked would work.  My concern is due to the handle appearing to be an add-on over the original handle.  So, if you grind it down to the width that the knob needs will the add-on then fall off?  Or, maybe you mean just grind the end down, the part that the knob slips onto?  In that case it should work, although you will see the larger handle behind the knob.




Another very minor problem is that the hole in the dash is something less than 1/2" and that switch is 1/2" where it goes through the dash.  However, that isn't a big problem as the hole can be enlarged.  But it will have to be enlarged to the right as the hole in the dash doesn't align perfectly with the hole in the instrument bezel, as shown below.  This shot was done with the camera as close to straight out as I could get it, and you can see that the hole in the dash is to the left of the one in the instrument bezel, and presumably the one in the fog lamp bezel.

[reamer]

Just so has it, I do have an extra complete interior in Grey, (mine right now is Tan, but if I change my mind)
complete with a grey dash super structure.

Got one of those switches coming and can mock-up the dash, instrument cluster bezel, fog bezel, and switch for fitment.

Yes, I will grind, or "finish" the lever and paint it black for the original look.
(by the way look closely at the shots of the original, it looks like a regular "slide" switch with a lever extension)......

[Gary Lewis]

Ron - That may work well.  But, you may not have to grind very much.  Here's a shot of the backside of a knob.  For reference the arm that goes in that spring retainer is .070" thick and .155" tall, although the opening is slightly bigger.

And the knob measures:

.510" x .510" on the back

.340" x .450" on the front

.560" long

.25ish opening if the spring retainer were removed

handle goes in .440"

So, if you could thread the handle and put threads in the knob it would be easy.  Don't know the shaft diameter of the handle, but the OD of #10 is .190", #12 is .216, and of course 1/4" is .250.  I'm thinking that you could remove the retainer, place a lubed screw in there, and run JB Weld in around it.  Pull the screw out when the JB Weld sets and screw the knob on the handle using a nut to lock it in place.

[Gary Lewis]

Oh, and I should also say that Granger got back and doesn't have a switch like the original fog lamp switch.  So, we do need to improvise.

[reamer]

Good insight! I did get a NOS knob in the kit!

[FuzzFace2]

FuzzFace2 wrote

Any one look over this site for the switch
https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/toggle-switches/201
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nkk-switches/M2011E3S1W01/360-3237-ND/1049250
Dave ----

Would this switch work better to fit the knob on?
Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Dave - That one wouldn't work because the actuator length is less than 1/2" - 11.40mm to be exact.  Jonathan said the arm on the correct switch is 1.15", which is about 30mm.  In addition the actuator is flat on the end, which wouldn't work to thread.

What we need is a toggle switch with a 30 mm long actuator that is 1/4" in diameter.  That would make threading it easy.

[FuzzFace2]

It looks longer than what is posted and I don't do metric
I was thinking with the flat you could grind it down a little and then slide the knob on it just would not be up/down but side to side or left the way it is.

Well I tried and will keep looking to see if there is something else comes up.
Dave----

[reamer]

My "long throw" switch should be here next week, (along with the 3-D bezel on Tuesday)