Fog Light Bezel, Switch, etc

[ArdWrknTrk]

Point or Pica is height.
Kerning is the space*ing* between letters.
Fonts can be "extended" (stretched) horizontally.
Or, a 'bold' font will usually be longer, not only because the lines are thicker, but because the Kerning will be wider to make it not looked cramped.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's an over simplification, but if you want to geek out with someone who sold commercial art supplies and more Letraset than you can imagine from the age of 10, bring it on...




Lol

[PetesPonies]

Can they be attached with speed nuts?

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - I stretched those characters to get what you see.  But when we get the real measurements then I'll go back and try bold and other options.  Just did that to get something to show.  But if you, or anyone else, knows what needs to be done to the font then please let me know.

Pete - Speed nuts are a good idea. In the pic below you can imagine the stud there, which will be ~.250" in diameter as the holes in the instrument bezel are ~.275".  So, a speed nut would probably fit w/o hitting the arm of the switch.  Good idea!  

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Your letters need to be more bold.
Look at the amount of space inside the G or the P.

latest iteration (at bottom of previous page) is too stretched.

Stroke width will help a lot in making it look right.
And, yes the font is a good match.

[reamer]

I will have precise letter measurements for you once my NOS one shows, maybe this week!

[Ford F834]

Gary, I took more measurements with calipers, so hopefully this will be everything you need...

Bead width = 1/16"

Bead height from bezel face = 3/64"

Letter thickness from bezel face = 1/32"

Inside edge of left bead to left side of slot opening = 1/8"

Right side of slot opening to inside edge of right bead = 1-1/32"

Lower slot radius to inside edge of bottom bead = 17/64"

Upper slot radius to inside edge of top bead = 5/8"

Space between inside of left bead and upright leg of the "F" = 13/64"

Space between the right edge of the "S" in fog lights and the inside edge of the right bead = 7/32"

Space between the upper bead and the top of the fog lights script = 23/64"

Space between the inside edge of the upper bead and the top of the "on" letters = 58/64"

... to the top of the "off" lettering = 1-9/16"

Space between the right side of the N in "on" and the inside edge of the right bead = 13/32"

Space between the right side of the F in "off" and the inside edge of the right bead = 23/64"

Space from right side of slot to the O in "on" = 3/8"

Space from right side of slot to the O in "off" = 21/64"

"Fog Lamps" word length = 1-5/64"

"ON" word length = 1/4"

"OFF" word length = 21/64"

Distance between centers on the mounting studs on reverse of bezel = 1-11/16"

Naturally I don't think you will want to use ALL of these measurements, but hopefully I have made enough reference points to be able to position everything. What you have already looks really close even viewed side by side, minus the bold facing of the font.

Another minor detail in case no one noticed, the lettering is white, not chrome like the bead...

[FuzzFace2]

Gary Lewis wrote

Jim - I stretched those characters to get what you see.  But when we get the real measurements then I'll go back and try bold and other options.  Just did that to get something to show.  But if you, or anyone else, knows what needs to be done to the font then please let me know.

Pete - Speed nuts are a good idea. In the pic below you can imagine the stud there, which will be ~.250" in diameter as the holes in the instrument bezel are ~.275".  So, a speed nut would probably fit w/o hitting the arm of the switch.  Good idea!  

Where on the instrument bezel does it go?
Is the bezel made just for the fog lights or can the holes be drilled to fit the fog light switch bezel?
Anyone have a picture of one installed?
Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Jonathan - Good job!  Thanks!  I'm going to re-draw the whole thing in a day or two using those measurements, and will be able to get it really close to "right" this time.

The only thing we won't have will be the studs on the back, but when Ron/Reamer gets his maybe those are measurements he can get for us since yours is installed and, therefore, hard to measure.  And, adding the studs to the otherwise-completed bezel will be easy.

As for the color of the lettering, I'll make it white this time.  

Dave - Here's Jonathan's pic, and the bead to the left surrounds the headlight/wiper switches.  So the fog lamp bezel sits between there and the steering column.  And, you can drill any instrument bezel to accept the fog lamp bezel.  I have a factory instrument bezel with the holes, so can measure it at some point when we get that far and detail out exactly where the holes should go and how large they should be.  

[FuzzFace2]

That would be good, that way everything is in 1 place when someone is looking for it like me when the time comes.

edit I:It looks like the fog bezel is a little longer than the light/wiper one?

edit II: Looking at the back side picture and taking about studs to hold the bezel what holds the switch?
Any way someone has a picture of the back side with switch and all?
Dave ----

[PetesPonies]

It is longer and that doesn't look right . . whether it is correct or not. No way it should be longer. Seems to be a disconnect between departments in regards to engineering design or manufacture.

[Gary Lewis]

I wonder if there were differences in the instrument bezels.  I may get a chance to look mine over tomorrow to see.

[Ford F834]

Dave, the switch mounts through the dash shell, not the bezel. I have a switch and it's just a flat toggle with a threaded ring on the front side.

I'll have to measure the headlight switch area to see if the fog bezel is actually bigger or not. It stands out from the face which exaggerates that appearance.

[Gary Lewis]

Houston (Jonathan), we have a problem.  Originally the slot was to be 19/64" wide.  But, with your latest measurements it should be 23/46" wide.  I get to the latter by:

Width of bezel          = 1 41/64"
less width of bead         = 8/64" (2 x 1/16" = 1/8" = 8/64")
less left bead to slot      = 8/64" (1/8" = 8/64")
less right bead to slot = 1 2/64" (1 1/32" = 1 2/64")

What's left for slot      = 23/64"

So, please re-measure the slot positioning as the slot on the first one I drew looked pretty good.

[Gary Lewis]

Here's another pass, although I've left out the slot since there is some confusion on my part with it.

The bezels on the left and right are my new drawing with the dimensions Jonathan gave me, including the bead width of 1/16", although that may be slightly too wide.  And, I've tightened the radius on the corners and I think they are correct now.

The left one has the lettering at 1/8" tall and stretched to fit Jonathan's dimensions.  Note that I tried bold, but it didn't work well at all, although I have a shot of it below if you want to see it.  And the drawing on the right is with the letters 5/32" high and again stretched to fit Jonathan's dimensions.  Personally, I think the letters on the right look closer.

Anyway, what do you think?




And, here's the bold one:

[1986F150Six]

The one on the right is quite good!

[PetesPonies]

Gary, because I have nothing to do ( yeah right LOL ) I started drawing the bezel as well . . just for kicks. I ran into a problem with the measurements as well . . so lets see what happens next  :)

[ArdWrknTrk]

I agree.
The one on the right is very close.

Bold is way too much.
Not sure what this font is and I'm not going back to look.



It would probably be a lot easier to just scan the original.
But I know how much you love a challenge Gary.  

[FuzzFace2]

Ford F834 wrote

Dave, the switch mounts through the dash shell, not the bezel. I have a switch and it's just a flat toggle with a threaded ring on the front side.

I'll have to measure the headlight switch area to see if the fog bezel is actually bigger or not. It stands out from the face which exaggerates that appearance.

So if I under stand it right there would be 3 holes in the dash.
1 for the switch held on with the ring and 2 for the bezel.

Learning all the time.
Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Pete - It will be interesting to see what you come up with.  What software are you using?

Jim - it is Kasse FLF.  And, I never said I do things the easy way.  However, what I've been told is that scanning doesn't give a good of results as from a drawing.

Dave - No.  There are three parts involved.  The fog lamp bezel fastens to the instrument bezel with two studs that pass through holes in the instrument bezel.  And, the plan is to use speed nuts on the plastic studs to hold it on, as Pete suggested.  But the switch fastens to the dash by passing through a D-shaped hole and being held by a nut on the barrel of the switch.  Then the arm of the switch passes through a slot in the instrument bezel and a slot in the fog lamp bezel.

(I think I made that complicated.  )