Fixing Eddie

[firefire]

Hi.
I imported this 1986 Bronco from Colorado to Norway two months ago. Though the seller said it was in excellent condition, it has its flaws. So before I can get it checked, approved and registered  in the spring I have to fix it up. Most important is issues related to safety and reliabillity. Second, personal preferences  But the Bronco took me from the harbor in Drammen ( south Norway) to Skodje ( west coast ) without any serious problems. An 8 hour drive. So far I have replaced all tie rods. They were shot. The fuel pump. Got 2 Carter pumps where the pump lever did not return fully. The first got the return spring for the lever stuck, ( tried it before installing) and the second did not return the last 10 mm. Mounted it, and it made a ticking sound as it hit the cam in the engine. The third was Delphi , which was good.Thanks to RockAuto, who replaced these pumps at no charge. New stabilizer bar bushings at front. New pistons and seals in brake calipers, front. Pumped through 2 bottles of brake fluid , front and rear. Replaced leaking hoses for transmission oil cooler.Accelerator pump leaking gas, due broken threads for one screw. Rethreaded for 5 mm screw. Taken out the carburator for cleaning, new seals. Now its out  again since there was no vacuum at the EGR port. Which is the tiny pipe sticking upwards beside the choke. Had to split the carburator to clean up the almost invisible hole down in the carburator.
This is ported vacuum. The other one is were your distributor is normally hooked up. Another tiny hole beside the other idle needle. Now I am waiting for a new gasket for the egr plate under the carburator. It was of course broken. Had to drill out the soot inside the pipe for the egr. Almost blocked. Have removed the smog pump and its pipeline. The evap system did not work. Stripped it down to one canister. Will probably work now when I found a purge valve that was ok. And fixing the ported vacuum. New temp. ( water temp )sensing valves for the vacuum system. The vacuum system is really complex. And it takes some time and effort to understand. Got the throttle kicker, heat valve system to work. Got to get the carburator back on so I can start the engine again. Its hard to remember everything.... I got oil leaking out of the oil pan, where the dipstick enters.Solutions ? Oil leaking from the oil pan gasket at the rear of the engine. Take the pan down , new gasket ? Have tightened the bolts, but it will probably not help. I now I will find more as I work my way through the truck. Will post some pictures later.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Wow, that's quite a list.
You've obviously taken care of years of neglect.  

The vacuum systems were complex, because there was no other implementation of 'logic' back then.

Vacuum can be used to monitor throttle position, load, or change the ignition timing.
It can be ported with temperature dependant switches to control inlet air temperature or within the ventilation/climate control ductwork to modulate doors that direct heat and cold.
It can be bled through an orifice to act as a timer.

The oil pan is problematic.
It's near impossible to remove in a 4x4 vehicle.
Though you could -probably- install a new multi-piece gasket in situ without completely removing it.
Those bolts up inside the front crossmember are a bear.

[1986F150Six]

Welcome, firefire!

[Gary Lewis]

I agree with Jim, replacing the pan gasket in the vehicle is REALLY difficult.  I've done it and vowed to never ever do it again.  But it was best said by a guy on FTE, who said something like "If I ever decide to replace the pan gasket in the truck again I'll just pour gas on the truck and light it first."  My sentiments exactly.

What emissions testing do you have in Norway?  What tests will the truck have to pass?

[firefire]

Hi.
The gasket I am waiting for will be here over the weekend.
The Bronco has to meet emission values set for 1986. If they will test is not certain. A value of 4,5% CO at idle. Then it is of course brakes, lights, rust, steering, suspension, documents. Luckily we can now keep the original american lights. A car older than 30 years have to be checked like this every 5 years. I will get help from Amcar of Norway with all necessary documents. I have the original Title, which is very important. And I have found the VIN number on the frame :). Newer cars are tested every second year. It is very much the same all over Europe. The EU sets the standard for most things in Norway too. Even we are not members. Its much about trade agreements, free flow of people.
Thats it for now. Its been well under freezing point this week, but now a little storm is approching with a little warmer weather. Sleet or rain ....

[firefire]

My comments to the pictures are missing.First 2 pictures of clogged and cleaned pipe in egr block. Under carburator. Than oil leaks. Ported vacuum hole for EGR in carburator. Than opened purge valve.Pipe "3" connects to your egr block under the carburator. Pipe "3" had crack inside the valve. See spit when i blew in at same time closing pipe with fingertip. Probably result in engine sucking in gas fumes and air from evap canister all time it was running. Which is wrong. Pipe "2" is connected to canister. Pipe "1" is to ported vacuum, same as EGR, will suck spring loaded diagram away from from "3". To allow gas fumes from "2" to enter pipe"3" and intake under carburator. Only when cruising and also when engine has reached the a temperature.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Unfortunately comments don't accompany photos on this forum.

But I do see them in the email notification of your post.

Are you able to source the new EEC valves there in Norway?
Can your importer help with this?

I'm glad you have the title and VIN for your truck.
There is a company here in America that maintains archives of all the old Ford documentation.
If you need something 'official' like a build sheet, Marti Auto in Arizona can supply a 'report' with all the factual information about your particular Ford vehicle (where it was sold, the date it was built, etc, etc)

[firefire]

Hi.
98 % of the parts I buy is from US dealers. They have an incredible offer of parts. The shipping costs is reasonable too. I have tried to seal the leak in the purge valve. See photo. There is also a photo of a Vacuum Delay Valve. The valve was mounted on the ported vacuum line to the Purge Valve. Which way should it be mounted, and what is its purpose ? You can only suck air through it from one side, marked "dist". Natural for me would be black side " carb" towards Purge Valve. But they were mounted the other way.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think it was mounted correctly.
It is a delay valve, so it takes time under vacuum to develop any suction on the other side but should release vacuum almost immediately.

We have here some discussion of the different colours, their activation thresholds and amount of restriction

[firefire]

Hi.
Yes, I think you are right about which way they shall be mounted. I don`t have a vacuum pump, and I don`t manage to suck through them with my mouth. And I really suck hard. My wife says I smell/taste gasolin, wonder why . Next stepp is getting the carburator back on, so I can test  for vacuum at the EGR vacuum port.

[firefire]

Changed steering coupler, Lares 206. Tips ? Notice how its put together before dismounting. Two of the included screws are to short. I had longer myself as they were 8mm size. You need an 10mm Unbraco screw to replace the original mounting screw. There is not room for the head of the original. In the photos you can see how soft the old coupler was. 6mm play.. This helps for the steering. Used a nitril working glov to cover the old cracked rubber around the joint.

[firefire]

Putting the carburator back in. Cleaning the intake carefully to avoid getting debris inside engine.  Moderator, please tell me if there is to many photos. Does somebody recomend using a sealant under the gasket against the intake under the erg block ? And if so, which one ? I believe there must be some extra heat and pressure there ?

[ArdWrknTrk]

No sealant, but the updated pink plastic Motorcraft gasket holds up much better than 'foil' gaskets.

I'm just an admin, but you are welcome to post as many pictures as you like.
Our software has a limit of 1Mb per image though. That's why we recommend using the "large image" option, as it automatically resizes your file.

Yesterday someone posted a rubber boot that fits your steering shaft.
I will try to link the post. 👍

[ArdWrknTrk]

Here is the thread:     http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Steering-shaft-boot-tp85554.html

Evidently it is in stock at Amazon in the U.S..

[Gary Lewis]

Jim is right on both counts.  No such thing as too many pics.  And no sealant.

But, on the pics, there are a couple of options.  The best approach is to edit your file to make it less than 1 mb in size.  That will make your pic as sharp and clear as possible.


Or, as Jim said, you can use "Big Size" if your files are large.  But then your picture itself won't be very large, as you've see.  However, if you want you can adjust the width to make it larger, although if you make it too large it can be blurry.  Here's one of your pics and here is the code for it w/o the < & > in front and behind it, and I've made what I've added to it to make it large bold so you can see:

nabble_img src="IMG_20210117_122501_4.jpg" border="0"width="100%"/

[ArdWrknTrk]

Interesting how the 5.8 controls the plenum exhaust crossover.

My 460 never had anything like that. Just a restriction in the "Turkey pan" intake gasket.  

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, the 351W had a different way of controlling the crossover.  Straight out of Chrysler's playbook as the Super Bee's 383 had a similar valve.  But the Chryslers had a single valve and the 351W had two.  I've never understood the need for the 2nd one.

[firefire]

Hi.
Thanks for your feed back. This evening I removed the rusted oil lines from the automatic transmission.I will replace them with copper lines. I bought a Hayden 698 oil cooler.  Should I route the oil lines only through the Hayden oil cooler, or via radiator and oil cooler ? Whats your opinion ? There will be no towing, and the summer temperatures are rarely more than 20`C / 68`F  For fun I bought a Glow Shift Gauge so I can monitor oil temperature. I will also mount a transmission oil filter. Have a nice day.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Mark Kovalsky (former Ford transmission engineer) says to have the transmission cooler lines plumbed through the radiator header last.
Because the transmission is meant to operate at fluid temperatures found there.

Too cold is almost worse than too hot, and having them in the radiator warms the fluid up faster and maintains a stable temperature.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, that's the best way.  That way if you ever drive the truck in cold weather, and I know it can get really cold there, the coolant will help warm up the transmission lube.