Ive rented and watched the Bad Shoe production video for rebuilding the C6. Pretty good step by step video. Ive torn down the tranny and have made my list of replacement parts that I believe I will need.
I was planning on purchasing the rebuild kit from Bad Shoe - wondering if anyone has purchased his kit before? I am going to replace the torque converter - any suggestions for where to purchase that? I have an auto zone, advance auto parts, NAPA and Oriellys all close by. Anyone with C6 rebuild experience care to chime in with their 2 cents worth of advice before I start the build? I have NEVER built a tranny before - built an engine before but never a tranny - it is kinda scary honestly enough - like a bajillion moving parts in this thing. Thanks in advance for ANY help!
My current collection consists of nine projects in various stages:
1986 F350 6.9 4x4 C6 regular cab long bed - I bought this from the ORIGINAL OWNER! 1986 F350 6.9 4x4 C6 regular cab with a Knapheide Service Bed 1985 F250 6.9 4x4 C6 regular cab dually with a steel flatbed with a gooseneck hitch in the bed 1987 F350 7.3 4x2 E4OD regular cab dually 10ft wooden flatbed. 1981 Mercedes Benz 300D with OM617 Diesel - my current daily driver 195? Willys CJ3B - my future project - Not sure what I am going to do with this. 1985 Mercedes Benz 300TD diesel station wagon - had plans to pull the motor for a Jeep build or something. 1975 GMC C20 with big block 350 - bought this for the motor - not sure what I am going to do with it. 1978 Mercedes Benz w116 with OM617 diesel - bought this to chop the body up and make it look like the bat mobile - this project is on the way back burner. |
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I've not rebuilt an auto tranny. But I have some knowledge of torque converters. I don't know what engine you have (no signature), nor what use you are going to make of the truck. But trucks and high-stall converters aren't a good combination. Trucks take torque at low RPM's to move heavy loads. High-stall converters allow the engine to wind to make power high in the RPM band, but they slip a lot at low RPM where a truck engine will be running.
And, the slippage in a C6's torque converter is always with you as it doesn't have a clutch to lock it up. So, if you do go with a high-stall converter you'll have really poor MPG as the converter will be slipping a bunch, continually. For me, I'd go with a towing or RV type converter. Hughes makes/used to make one called the Mile Master that was said to reduce slippage and increase MPG. If you have enough engine then I'd go with something like that. And by that I mean, a little engine like the 302 needs to wind, but the 300 six or even a 351 has torque at low R's and doesn't need to wind. Just my $.02.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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What Gary said.
Here's one I've had my eye on. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-443630
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
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In reply to this post by MagooInFL
A C6 is actually a pretty simple transmission to build and they're pretty tough. Darth's original had around 125,000 miles when I switched over to EFI and the E4OD. I usually get a friend with a transmission shop to order mine, he will get it for me at his cost, I believe they are Dacco converters.
I think I have rebuilt every Ford automatic except some of the newer ones like the 5R55 and 4R10. FMX, Cast iron Cruise-o-matic, 2 and 3 speed Ford-o-matic, C3, C4, C5, C6, AOD, E4OD, 4R75W, Lincoln Turbo-Drive (monster iron cruise-o-matic) I have done. Go to NAPA and buy an ATRA manual on it, get a shift kit for the valve body and clean everything thoroughly, especially the governor.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
Oops - sorry I forgot to mention this is going back into my 1985 F250 with the 6.9 diesel with a dually rear end with 4:10 gears
My current collection consists of nine projects in various stages:
1986 F350 6.9 4x4 C6 regular cab long bed - I bought this from the ORIGINAL OWNER! 1986 F350 6.9 4x4 C6 regular cab with a Knapheide Service Bed 1985 F250 6.9 4x4 C6 regular cab dually with a steel flatbed with a gooseneck hitch in the bed 1987 F350 7.3 4x2 E4OD regular cab dually 10ft wooden flatbed. 1981 Mercedes Benz 300D with OM617 Diesel - my current daily driver 195? Willys CJ3B - my future project - Not sure what I am going to do with this. 1985 Mercedes Benz 300TD diesel station wagon - had plans to pull the motor for a Jeep build or something. 1975 GMC C20 with big block 350 - bought this for the motor - not sure what I am going to do with it. 1978 Mercedes Benz w116 with OM617 diesel - bought this to chop the body up and make it look like the bat mobile - this project is on the way back burner. |
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Wow! LOOK at all those vehicle, many of which are Bullnose!
Since the converter is going behind a diesel, which turns at low RPM, it is even more important to go with a converter with little slip. One article I read said "In general, the desired stall speed should be 500-700 RPM below the engine RPM at peak torque." The 1983 dealer facts book says that your engine produces peak torque at 1800 RPM. So that rule of thumb says you need a torque converter that has a stall speed between 1100 - 1300 RPM. That's low.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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good info - thank you - yes - its a collection that is too long and varied - I am trying to pair it down to JUST F350 4x4 diesel BULLNOSES only. Ive discovered that I have vehicular ADHD or ADD or something like that whereas I want to do waaaayyy more than my time will actually allow. And I am a sucker for what I feel is a steel. This weekend I am buying two more Bricknoses because I just can't refuse the prices! $300 for a 1990 F350 with a nice all steel flatbed and complete drivetrain! Cmon - how do I NOT buy that?
My current collection consists of nine projects in various stages:
1986 F350 6.9 4x4 C6 regular cab long bed - I bought this from the ORIGINAL OWNER! 1986 F350 6.9 4x4 C6 regular cab with a Knapheide Service Bed 1985 F250 6.9 4x4 C6 regular cab dually with a steel flatbed with a gooseneck hitch in the bed 1987 F350 7.3 4x2 E4OD regular cab dually 10ft wooden flatbed. 1981 Mercedes Benz 300D with OM617 Diesel - my current daily driver 195? Willys CJ3B - my future project - Not sure what I am going to do with this. 1985 Mercedes Benz 300TD diesel station wagon - had plans to pull the motor for a Jeep build or something. 1975 GMC C20 with big block 350 - bought this for the motor - not sure what I am going to do with it. 1978 Mercedes Benz w116 with OM617 diesel - bought this to chop the body up and make it look like the bat mobile - this project is on the way back burner. |
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That is a steal! I paid something like $800 for Huck, the 1990 F250 half truck. The frame was cut at the back of the cab, so I didn't get the rear axle nor bed, but I got the drive shafts, tanks, fuel lines, 460 and EFI system, E4OD, etc.
So you are getting quite the buy. But, you are also getting quite the inventory. You need to meet Ray/NotEnoughTrucks. I think you and he are cut from the same cloth.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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