First Ford

[hubcityford]

I’m in Hattiesburg, MS and decided to get my wife’s grandfather’s truck running (hopefully). I can change oil, battery, etc but never tried anything like this. It was last driven maybe 15 yrs ago. Nothing was wrong with it, just got forgotten and neglected. It has been sitting in her uncle’s garage. Bought a Haynes book and just starting my research. Trying to determine how to best approach this project. Any help, advice, warnings, prayers would be appreciated.

Thanks

[FuzzFace2]

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum.
You will find some of us are on both forums, we just cant get enough Bullnose information
You will also get good information here as well so I will not copy & past my reply just yet LOL
Dave ----

[Rembrant]

Welcome aboard Hubcity,

That's a great lookin' project. I started with one just like it a little over 2 years ago, but it was already running.

If you get a chance, post up a picture of the certification label so that we can see what exactly you have there. It will be on door jamb on the cab, right next to the striker post where the driver's door latches when it closes. That label will have all of the information on the truck.

[Gary Lewis]

Rembrant wrote

Welcome aboard Hubcity,

That's a great lookin' project. I started with one just like it a little over 2 years ago, but it was already running.

If you get a chance, post up a picture of the certification label so that we can see what exactly you have there. It will be on door jamb on the cab, right next to the striker post where the driver's door latches when it closes. That label will have all of the information on the truck.

Or, if you'd like to decode your own you can do so here: Documentation/Specifications/Certification Label.

[hubcityford]

[Rembrant]

OK...so the truck was originally equipped with the small 255 cubic inch V8, a C4 auto trans, and 2.75 rear end. Do you know if the truck is all still original? The "D" engine code is the 255 isn't Gary?

That 255 V8 is fairly rare I think...only available for one year, maybe 2? I know nothing about this engine and have no idea how much support there is for it. However, if it's there and still runs OK, then you're all good.

This should be a fun project.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, "D" in 1981 & '82 was the 255.

As for support, there's not much of it.  They discontinued it pretty quickly as it wasn't very popular.

But, it has the Windsor perches and bolt pattern on the transmission, so a 302 or 351W would be an easy swap.  I think it would be bolt-in save for the exhaust, which is different because the manifolds are farther apart on the bigger engines.

[hubcityford]

VERY original. Less than 80K miles I think.

First thing I plan to do is pull all plugs, remove belts and add oil in plug holes. Then try and turn over by hand to see if I have something to work with.  Any diagrams regarding belts? I can draw out and take pics but always like a fall back plan.  Also do I just loosen pulleys and belt come off?

[Gary Lewis]

We don't have any diagrams on the site for belts, and I'm not finding anything in the master parts catalog that helps.  But tomorrow I can see if I have a factory shop manual that helps.  So make sure you take pics.

To remove the belts, you probably have a smog pump either above or below the alternator.  One or both of those things will loosen to let the belt go slack.

On the other side the power steering pump usually has a sliding bracket on it where you can loosen two or three bolts and slack the belt enough to get it off.

So you shouldn't have to remove the pulleys.  The belts should come off over the fan, and have to go back on in the reverse order.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Welcome to the forum!  

Both Gates and Dayco have belt routing diagrams on their websites and in their mobile apps.

I am familiar with the NaviGates application, find it is accurate, and includes part numbers.

[old55pete]

Nice looking pickup. Welcome to the club, there is a lot of smart and good folks here. From what Ive seen, you can get almost any question answered here. In some cases, if they dont have the answer right off of the top of their head, they know where to find it.

Just a heads up, pouring oil in the cylinders is a good idea, but let me take you a step farther. If it has been sitting fifteen or so years, the rings may be stuck in the pistons. Taking in account for the humidity in MS, I wouldent call this an unreansable assumption. In stead of using oil, use PB Blaster or WD 40, Or even a healthy dose of good ole fashion diesel fuel and let them soak for a few days. Just fill them up and put the put the plugs back in hand tight to keep any more moister from getting in and leave it sit for a spell. Take the plugs back out and then try to turn it over by hand with a braker bar and a deep socket

[ArdWrknTrk]

ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil are good choices also

[FuzzFace2]

hubcityford wrote

Mine being 1 month later 11/80 and also being a 81 model year I see your wheels (rims) are wider than mine but I have 14 lb more rear GVWR strange?
Mine has the 300 six and a T18 transmission

Dave ----

[salans7]

At first the two paint codes confused me, but now I can see the secondary color on the roof. That's referred to as the Regular Tu-Tone, and it looks like you also have a tape stripe that outlines the body panels. Interesting combo.