Factory AC conversion thoughts?

[Rembrant]

Ok, I've been taking stuff apart and cleaning this evening trying to see what parts I'm going to need, and what parts I need to fix. So now I have a few more questions:

1. Where do you buy the little vacuum cylinders? The one I'm going to need for sure is the one for the recirc door (The vacuum motor in the engine bay on top of the heat/AC box).

2. Can the recirc door be removed and recovered? Has anybody done this before?

3. Does anybody know if the bearing can be replaced in the idler/tensioner pulley for the compressor V-belt?

4. Can anybody take a picture of the plugs/wiring in and around the resistor pack in the heat/AC box? I have the wiring pretty much sorted out (I think), but just curious where a couple of the wires go that in near/between the resistor pack and the plug on the AC pressure switch.

Edit:

5. Did the trucks with factory AC have different radiator fans? I mean different than the one that is currently on my non-AC truck?

[kramttocs]

1. YH-362.Mine had a rusted hole in the bottom and I didn't readily find any online so I pulled a nice one off a jy truck. I did find some later year 1 port ones that might fit or be made to fit. Planning to head to the jy tomorrow to pull a couple connectors so can keep an eye out for a good one in case you don't have any luck.

2. Yes, well removed at least. I pulled mine out to powdercoat the rod. It isn't terrible to get out and in although took a little work to get the rod back into the clip on the door.  Not sure about recovering it though. That one is thick (hence why the mice go to town on them) so wouldn't be as easy as putting foam tape on it like the other doors.

3. -

4. Definitely can tomorrow if someone doesn't have one handy

5. -

[1986F150Six]

This is a copy of an old post, but might provide some helpful information.

 
NumberDummy
 
Ford Parts Specialist


Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 86,668


Quote:
Originally Posted by parr4  
Thanks Bill. If you can get the part # of the single-stage vac motor that controls the register panel-door, I'd be obliged. I understand the Function control switch.....huge pita to deal with....btdt.
There are three different vacuum motors with factory A/C / There's also the A/C Vacuum Selector Valve I mentioned in post #9.

1) D9AZ-18A318-C (Motorcraft YH-350) / Obsolete

A/C Heat Door-Located on Plenum Chamber-One Port.

1980/86 F100/350 & Bronco / 1979/89 LTD/Crown Vic/Mercury Grand Marquis.

20 available NOS from FoMoCo Dealers/obsolete parts vendors.
------------------------------------------------------------
2) EOTZ-18A318-A (Motorcraft YH-362) / Obsolete

Recirculating Fresh Air Door located on Evaporator-One Port.

1980/89 F100/350 & Bronco.

29 available NOS from FoMoCo Dealers/obsolete parts vendors.
------------------------------------------------------------
3) EOTZ-18A318-B (Motorcraft YH-363) / Obsolete

Defrost Door-Located on Plenum Chamber-Two Ports.

1980/89 F100/350 & Bronco.

21 available NOS from FoMoCo Dealers/obsolete parts vendors.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
EOTZ-19B888-B .. A/C Vacuum Control Selector Valve Assy (Motorcraft YH361) / Obsolete

This little charmer (a notorious POS!) mounts to the backside of the A/C Heater control panel, all the vacuum hoses connect to it.

When you slide the lever on the control panel, this valve opens one blend door and closes another.

This valve also has the A/C 'kicker switch' mounted to it. Turns on the A/C (an audible CLICK is heard) by sliding the lever to A/C.

1980/82 F100/350 & Bronco.

139 available from FoMoCo Dealers/obsolete parts vendors.
--------------------------------------------------------
Pick the part(s) you want, let me know, I'll list the sources closest to you.

Check the ends of the vacuum hoses where they connect to these motors. When they age, they crack, allowing vacuum to escape.

Check the vacuum hoses to make sure none are kinked.
 
__________________
Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager / SoCal Chapter Member / Part number research: 1928/89 FoMoCo vehicles.

[Gary Lewis]

Or, you could go to Documenation/HVAC/HVAC Systems and on the Part Numbers tab you'll find:

[Gary Lewis]

And, I forgot - I'll take the pics around the resistor pack.  Big Blue is in just the right shape to do that.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary Lewis wrote

And, I forgot - I'll take the pics around the resistor pack.  Big Blue is in just the right shape to do that.

Let's see if this helps:

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

Let's see if this helps:

Gary, as Peter Griffin once said, you are as cool as the other side of the pillow! Thank you sir, that picture is exactly what I needed. One of the connectors was broken off, and it wasn't clear to me what it was supposed to be attached to, but now it is. The wiring for the AC is really quite simple, so this is going to be a pretty easy install. A lot of time, yes,...but not difficult.

The picture below are the two wires/connectors that I cut from the harness of the donor truck. These should be connectors C606 and C606A, and if I'm understanding the wiring correctly, these same two connectors should also be in my Non-AC equipped F150. Would you agree with that thought?




The only other stray if this one wire off the AC harness closer to the plug for the AC compressor clutch. It must be for the throttle kicker, which I hadn't planned on using. I might just delete that wire...it's burned and melted anyway.

[Gary Lewis]

Dad would have said "If that's a complement then I thank you."  

Looking at the 1984 EVTM (your pic is a bit small) I agree that C606 should be in the truck if it is non-AC, and C606A will be there if it is an AC truck.  Both are gray and have a single pin, and connect BR/O wires.  So, you should be good to go.

And that should be the throttle kicker, but if your idle is adequate you probably won't need it.

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

Looking at the 1984 EVTM (your pic is a bit small) I agree that C606 should be in the truck if it is non-AC, and C606A will be there if it is an AC truck.  Both are gray and have a single pin, and connect BR/O wires.  So, you should be good to go.

Oh, so you think that the C606A will not be in my Non-AC truck?

[Gary Lewis]

I think it is either or, but not both.  Don't know why, but that seems to be the case.

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

I think it is either or, but not both.  Don't know why, but that seems to be the case.

Ok, clarification...maybe...
I just went back through the EVTM again because it just wasn't making sense to me. I was looking at the "AC-Heater" page thinking it referred to both AC and Heat, but that is not the case. I found the Heat (only) page that refers to my truck, and it shows connector C606.



So, correct me if I'm wrong here, but I should be able to disconnect connect C606 shown above, and plug each half into the two connectors on the AC/Heat controller, and then I have C606 and C606A?

The two connectors from the AC truck are reversed...the male and female ends of the connectors.



So I should disconnect the two dead/cut-off ends, and then the two halves remaining should plug into the two halves of connector C606 in my truck. Does that sound correct? They may not be in the 100% correct location, but electrically that would be correct, no?

[Gary Lewis]

This is getting scary - I pulled out my '84 EVTM and opened it to the right page on the first try.    (But if you'd stick width="100%" in the html generated for your pics I might be able to read them.  For instance: nabble_img src="SPOUT_Connector.jpg" border="0"width="100%"/ with the pointy things on each end taken off.)

And yes, you figured it out, there's a page for Heater and one for AC.

Anyway, I'm confused.  I thought I understood the EVTM such that the >> meant that the connector on the left is the male and the one on the right is the female.  So, C606 should be oriented the same as C606A.  But I think you are saying that they changed the genders between the two - right?

If that is the case you should be able to connect the cast-off C606 connector to the cast-off C606A connector and change the genders back.

Is that what you meant?

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

So, C606 should be oriented the same as C606A.  But I think you are saying that they changed the genders between the two - right?

Correct. The connector genders are reversed between C606 and C606A.

Gary Lewis wrote

If that is the case you should be able to connect the cast-off C606 connector to the cast-off C606A connector and change the genders back.

Is that what you meant?

Well, what I meant was, it looks like the harness in my truck was made to accept the AC harness. I should be able to open up connector C606 on my truck, and then plug both wires from the AC harness into each half of the C606 connector.

In other words, no splicing. Just plug and play.

I won't know for sure until I get in there and actually try it, but at least I know where to connect the two wires from the AC harness, even if I do have to splice them in (But I assume I do not).

[Gary Lewis]

If by "open up connector C606 on my truck, and then plug both wires from the AC harness into each half of the C606 connector" you mean pull the terminals out of the shells then I think I'm with you.  Maybe.  Can you say that another way?

[Rembrant]

Hang on a sec...I just deleted my reply because I worded it incorrectly...lol.

BRB...

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

If by "open up connector C606 on my truck, and then plug both wires from the AC harness into each half of the C606 connector" you mean pull the terminals out of the shells then I think I'm with you.  Maybe.  Can you say that another way?

OK, try this...

I disconnected the the plugs for an example.

Pretend the connector on the right is C606 in my Non-AC truck.

The two wires on the left are from the AC harness. One is brown/white, and the other is brown/orange.

It looks like all I have to do is simply open up the C606 connector in my truck, and connect the two halves to the two wires of the AC harness.

Does that make sense?



If you look at the two diagrams in the EVTM for heat only, and then heat/AC, the AC wiring simply inserts in between the fuse and the blower.

That should be all I have to do.

[Gary Lewis]

Dawn!  Marblehead!  Yes!  I agree.  

[Rembrant]

Ok, technically speaking, I'm all good on this swap now. Wiring, plumbing, mechanical, etc. I still need a few little odds and ends, but I have all of the big and important stuff now. This one is going to be fun, and it will look good as a full factory install. A lot of things won't raise the value of my little old Bull, but some nice cold factory AC will.

Couple questions though Gary that I asked above wondering if you can help with:

1. Did a truck like mine with factory AC have a different radiator fan?

2. Do you know if the bearing can be changed in the AC compressor belt tensioner?

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you are essentially "there".  Gotta be a good feeling.

On your questions, the one about the fan is certainly different between A/C and non-A/C trucks, and that is shown on the page at Documentation/Cooling Systems/COOLING FAN #'S & ILLUSTRATIONS.  The non-AC fan is 18 1/4" in diameter and the AC one is 19".  But there's also a difference in the clutch, which is also shown.  And, there's a chance you will need a different shroud, as shown on the page at Documentation/Cooling Systems/Shroud Part #'s.

On the idler pulley bearing, I don't know.  I do know that the serpentine ones can be replaced as I've done that.  But I've not tried the vee-belt ones.  I'll go look .....

[Gary Lewis]

I found two instances of idler pulley bearings, but neither fit your truck.  So from an MPC standpoint it looks like the answer is no.  But does yours look like it can be replaced?