Factory AC conversion thoughts?

[85lebaront2]

Rembrant wrote

Can the later 1994-1996/7 cab and firewall AC components be used with the 1986 style compressor? Is it just a matter of adapting the lines to fit between the two systems, or is it not so simple? Just curious.

Short answer is no, compressor end connections are entirely different. You could probably get some made with the later springlock fittings on the firewall and condenser ends and the screw on at the compressor ends or possibly find a replacement for the compressor service valves on the FS6 compressor.

The changes that were made in 1994 for R134a are: compressor changed from FS6 to FS10 (larger displacement), condenser changed to multipass design for better heat transfer, evaporator size increased for better cooling and the interior ducting was completely changed including the blend door. The other item on the 460 and Diesel models and maybe all, an insulating reflective wrap was put over the discharge side of the evaporator case, this is why I can get in Darth after a highway run on a hot day and have cold air almost immediately.

[Rembrant]

85lebaront2 wrote

Short answer is no, compressor end connections are entirely different. You could probably get some made with the later springlock fittings on the firewall and condenser ends and the screw on at the compressor ends or possibly find a replacement for the compressor service valves on the FS6 compressor.

Ok, understood. I heard that a '96 with factory AC just showed up at one of the local junkyards, so I was going to go investigate. I've been collecting the parts for Bullnose factory AC parts, so that is the direction I've already been going, and I would prefer to keep the stock V-belt arrangement if I can. I might be convinced to swap in a serpentine system later on, so maybe I'll go have a look at the truck anyway and see how cheaply I can get the parts.

[Rembrant]

reamer wrote

And yes swapping to an AC equipped cab is the way to go, I wanted to "install" AC into my stripped cab, The Owner of the JY that had a AC Cab said "if you want the spend hours trying the get all the blend doors wires vac lines ect, you'll never get it right in the stripped cab, Take the whole cab (completely rust free) and all components under the hood for $700.
Super glad I did!

Hey Ron,

Out of curiosity, did your AC cab come from a truck with a single fuel tank? In the little bit of searching I have done, it looks like almost every heat/AC control panel also has the dual fuel tank switch. I know they exist for trucks with single tanks, but they don't seem to be all that easy to come by.

Getting a whole cab was a good deal. I'd never find a cab like that, certainly not around here, and mine has already been painted, so I'll have to work with what I have. I've heard from at least a couple guys that have done this swap, so I can make it work one way or another.

[Ford F834]

Rembrant wrote

In the little bit of searching I have done, it looks like almost every heat/AC control panel also has the dual fuel tank switch.

Don’t forget to look in Econoline vans. Many had AC and only one fuel tank. That’s where I found the control panel for my ‘81.

[Gary Lewis]

That's interesting 'cause all of the van controls start with E?UZ where the F & U-series controls start with E?TZ.  So I'd assumed that they wouldn't work.

But that's the problem with getting all of your limited knowledge from a book.  You don't know what might work in spite of what the book says.

[salans7]

Rembrant wrote

 In the little bit of searching I have done, it looks like almost every heat/AC control panel also has the dual fuel tank switch. I know they exist for trucks with single tanks, but they don't seem to be all that easy to come by.

Worst case scenario, I can send you my A/C-Single Tank panel with the rest of the A/C small parts (two control switches, vacuum hoses, wiring harness, etc) I still have if shipping to you from FL/US won't kill you. I'm not gonna bother with factory A/C in my truck since my inner plenum was damaged so you're welcome to it if you can't find it closer or on Fleabay.

[Rembrant]

Thanks Shaun,

I may very well be interested in the parts if you're not going to use them. My sister in law and her husband just bought a place in Florida and are driving down in a couple weeks. I've already told him that I'll be sending him to the junkyards for me down there...haha, so I could get him to pick up parts for me if need be. What year are you parts from? There were some changes in them at some point no?

[salans7]

Here's what I have. The wiring harness would be for parts or repair since it looks like some squirrels or mice got to it at some point years ago. Definitely looks fixable, and it only looks to be lightly chewed in a few places. The control panel looks good aside from fading on the red part of warm. All the knobs move freely. The vacuum harness look to be in good shape with no broken sections. I may have both control cables as well, but I would have to look. I know I have at least one still hooked up in the truck.

[LARIAT 85]

Gary Lewis wrote

As for the throttle kicker, I don't think it is necessary.  Nice, but I think your engine will idle fine w/o it.

While it isn't absolutely necessary, the throttle kicker does serve a useful purpose.  Yes, your engine will idle fine without it provided that you set the curb idle speed higher than you would if you didn't have A/C.  The throttle kicker (Ford called the combination A/C solenoid/dashpot a solepot) will adjust for the extra strain on the engine that is generated when the A/C compressor is turned on.  

The solepot mechanically chocks the throttle linkage a bit whenever the A/C is turned on. This way, you can set the idle speed as low as possible under normal conditions, and then adjust the solepot to "kick up" the throttle lever just enough to maintain the normal curb idle speed. When adjusted correctly, there should be no difference in normal idle speed and idle speed with the compressor turned on.

For example, my truck has a curb idle speed of 500 RPM in gear.  When I turn on my A/C system, my truck will still idle at 500 RPM - thanks to the solepot.  Without it, I would have to adjust my curb idle speed up to 700 RPM or so to compensate for the extra load. Then I will end up with two idle speeds:  700 RPM without A/C turned on, and 500 RPM with the A/C turned on.

It's the details that count.

[Rembrant]

salans7 wrote

Here's what I have. The wiring harness would be for parts or repair since it looks like some squirrels or mice got to it at some point years ago. Definitely looks fixable, and it only looks to be lightly chewed in a few places. The control panel looks good aside from fading on the red part of warm. All the knobs move freely. The vacuum harness look to be in good shape with no broken sections. I may have both control cables as well, but I would have to look. I know I have at least one still hooked up in the truck.

Hey Shaun,

Let me know what you'd want for the stuff. You can PM on here or whatever...

[salans7]

Rembrant wrote

Hey Shaun,

Let me know what you'd want for the stuff. You can PM on here or whatever...

Email sent.

[Rembrant]

Guys,

I'm just spit ballin' some ideas here, but with the heat/AC plenum below, I could make my own distribution ducts if I wanted to, correct?



If I had everything installed for factory AC up to this plenum, I could then make a header of sorts to go over the AC door, and then run flex ducts to the passenger dash and instrument bezel, correct?

[Gary Lewis]

I think that would work.  Some of the dealer-installed A/C systems used flexible ducts.

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

I think that would work.  Some of the dealer-installed A/C systems used flexible ducts.

Yeah, that's what I thought. I'm just spit balling some plans on how to do this once I get my hands on all of the parts. I may end up with a hybrid system...that is mostly factory AC with the distribution/vents more like a dealer AC system. It would work fine and most people wouldn't know the difference visually anyway.

[salans7]

Rembrant wrote

Yeah, that's what I thought. I'm just spit balling some plans on how to do this once I get my hands on all of the parts. I may end up with a hybrid system...that is mostly factory AC with the distribution/vents more like a dealer AC system. It would work fine and most people wouldn't know the difference visually anyway.

I still have the ducting from my truck as well I could include with the rest of the stuff. It comes apart in a couple pieces so isn't too bulky.

[Rembrant]

So I finally picked up a whole car load of stuff tonight. Mostly the final pieces for a full factory AC conversion. The dash is in really nice condition, but the steel frame needs some repair work on the driver's side. I didn't need the cluster or bezels, but they came with the whole thing anyway.



So now I have just about everything, all removed from three different trucks. Dash/interior parts and all ducts/heater/AC box removed from a 1986. All engine bay lines, condenser, and wiring harness removed from a 1983, and compressor and brackets removed from a 1985 w/302 out in ND.

Couple little trinkets I still need, and I believe some misc parts that Shaun may still have, and I'm good to go here. It won't be happening right away, but perhaps I'll start a new thread later on about the conversion.

Thanks to all that have helped me get this far. Your patience has been appreciated.

[kramttocs]

That dash looks great.

[Gary Lewis]

Congrat's!!!  

By the way, those burled wood bezels are some of the best I've seen - save for the extra hole left of the steering column.  Must have either been parked inside or come from somewhere that doesn't have a lot of UV.

[grumpin]

Wow! That’s great!

[salans7]

That's great Cory! Glad you were able to find the whole package closer to home! Let me know what you may be missing when you're ready and I'll see if I have it.