It’s been 3 years I’ve dealt with low oil pressure, to the point of not driving the 84, except to haul the trash to the transfer station.
So I’m going to replace the engine and be done with it. I don’t want to get into rebuilding this one. I have looked at most of the online sites for a stock replacement. Just don’t know which ones to trust. Would you share your experience as to who to trust and who to stay away from. The engine is a 302 . David
David,
1984 F150 LX, 4x4 117 wheel base, Engine Code "F" = 302, 5.0 2/B, Transmission code "A" = 4sp manual New Process model 435 Axle code "19" = 3.55 (ford 8.8) manf. 08/1983, in Norfolk DSO code "21" AtlantaFactory Air Conditioner, Dash with Gauges 1990 Goldwing 1500 1986 F150 XLT, short bed, 5.0 automatic 2004 F53 Fleetwood Terra motor home 2017 Chevrolet Traverse Home town Viola Tennessee |
Are you looking at buying a crate engine, or having a local engine builder build you something, or getting something out of a salvage yard, or what?
I would guess you are looking at a crate engine. I very nearly pulled the trigger on a Blueprint Engines 408 (stroked 351w). My only concern was that the cam profile was more suited to a car than a truck - it favored higher hp over low end torque). They would not put a different camshaft in it, and if I did I suspect I would have voided the warranty. Were it not for that, I would have gone with them. Good quality stuff. I would watch out for bottom-end rebuilt engines. About 20 years ago I got a Chevy 350 for about $1000. It was ok and did not fail in the time I had the car, but I always had it in the back of my mind that the rebuilder used the absolute cheapest rings, the absolute cheapest bearing, the absolute cheapest oil pump, etc. So I never really trusted the engine when I romped on it. Maybe it was fine and it was all in my mind, but if peace of mind is something you want out of this, it's something to consider. In the end, I decided to build a stockish 351W for my truck myself. I know you said you weren't interested in rebuilding what's in there, but it might be the best solution for the money.
81 F150 Flareside, Edelbrock Pro Flow4 FI, hydraulic roller 351W, E4OD, 4x4, BW1356
92 F150 RCLB 351W E40D BW1356 mostly stock |
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by jdavidsmi
Did you ever consider simply throwing a high volume oil pump in it and keep driving? 🤔
Does it rattle, burn oil or have any pressure leaks? My engine has low(ish) oil pressure hot, and I took an Amazon deal for 10w60. It worked well for my last oil change but I'm not going to pay retail. And if I have to pull my engine to get the pan off and swap in my NOS Melling HV pump I'm not going to re-install a 15 year old reman even if it is reliable and doesn't show signs of burning oil.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Yes I was thinking about a remanufactured crate long block , even though I have rebuilt a couple engines in my life, I just don’t want to do it again. Let someone who has a lot more experience and knowledge do the technical parts, and I will do the grunt work .
I have been running 50 weight oil and had not thought about replacing the oil pump with a high volume. It’s not burning much oil, but there is a small leak around the rear crank seal, less than a quart use between oil changes.
David,
1984 F150 LX, 4x4 117 wheel base, Engine Code "F" = 302, 5.0 2/B, Transmission code "A" = 4sp manual New Process model 435 Axle code "19" = 3.55 (ford 8.8) manf. 08/1983, in Norfolk DSO code "21" AtlantaFactory Air Conditioner, Dash with Gauges 1990 Goldwing 1500 1986 F150 XLT, short bed, 5.0 automatic 2004 F53 Fleetwood Terra motor home 2017 Chevrolet Traverse Home town Viola Tennessee |
Edit this page |