Ok...now i have a problem at my own truck...
I can't move the tailgate window when the tailgate is closed. I already have bridged the limiter switch, without success. I only can move it, when the tailgate is opened and I'll close the latches or bridge the switch. If I try to close the tailgate, the window stops to work close before the tailgate is closed. Is there another switch? I only found one inside the tailgate on the driver's side. Thanks!
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
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Rene' I believe you probably have one or more broken wires where the harness bends entering the tailgate. This is not an unkommon issue on power tailgate windows.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
Hi Gary!
This is a good point...I already have had repaired two wires in the past. I should check it and replace the cable.
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
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Hi, Rene. But that was Bill that answered your question, not me.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Oh...maybe it's time to go the Ophthalmologist...
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
In reply to this post by 85lebaront2
Hi BILL!!!!!
NOW I answer the right person... I've found the problem exactly where you've said: Two wires were broken directly after my repair shells...now I'm changing all three wires completely to a 3x2.5mm² H07RN-F cable.
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
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No! That was me!
Actually, it was the old sage, Bill. Isn't he a wealth of knowledge? Glad you found it.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Having owned a couple of Fomoco wagons (1970 1/2 Falcon and 1971 Colony Park) I am quite familiar with broken wires at the tailgate hinge, particularly since both were dual action tailgates.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
So, I've fixed the problem:
Before: One of the wires was corroded completely after the connector behind the taillight. After: I'll change the complete wiring harness in the future. I'll also change the H07 cable again to one made for robotic applications, cause these are very reliable and flexible. But also by now the window already runs much faster.
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
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Those Scotchlok connectors w/o the moisture seal are a very poor choice in situations like that. Glad you got it fixed, at least for the moment, with a very good solution later.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by ReneH
You know your key also rolls the window up and down, right?
LittleBeefy aka Chad
“Dot Doitall”: 1984 Bronco XLT 460 (C8VE), Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4, ZF5, NP205, D44HP solid axle, 4.56 urban assault vehicle "Bebe": 2022 Bronco Badlands 2dr 2.7l, Sasquatch, Iconic Silver, Black Marine-grade interior, hard-top "Celeste": 1979 Porsche 928 4.5l K-jet, 5-sp, S4/GTS brakes, LSD, Pasha interior |
Yes, I know. I also have repaired the switch in the past, cause it was bad.
Currently I can use the key and my remote. When I replace all wires with durable double insulated cables and all connectors with distribution boxes, I will also bring the tailgate switch inside back to life. I will do a central distribution where the glove compartment is located. This is so small, I can set it aside. For this, I use industrial terminal blocks. For the tail power distribution, I'll use a 2x 5AWG cable to bring the power to the back of the car. All switches are only controlling relays, so I only need small wires from front to back for it.
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic |
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