Conflicting Battery Test results

[ratdude747]

While working on other things, I played with my battery analyzer this afternoon and got some conficting test results on my battery.

First, the battery is a 12/2017 Group 65 ValuePower made by Johnson Controls:



Initially it was failing the CCA test, but that's because like a moron I was entering the wrong CCA rating. Once I entered the correct value, it's saying all is well:



But when I do a starting test, it's showing "excessive" voltage drop:



FWIW I'm running a PMGR starter.

It usually starts fine, other than the cold snap a few weeks ago where it flat out wouldn't crank enough to start. But when it warmed up a few days later, it started no trouble... and I didn't charge it either

It's a relatively old battery... purchased by the previous owner. Good unit though, being made by Johnson Controls.

That said, should I be looking for a new one soon given these results and observations?

[viven44]

That looks like enough CCA. I'm sure you've checked the connections already, (negative to block, positive to starter solenoid)... maybe too much timing advance during crank. If the white wire on the duraspark 2 module isn't getting voltage, it won't do a timing retard during crank, maybe something to check.

[Gary Lewis]

I think you may have one cell that isn't up to snuff.  Have you checked the water levels?  And do you have a hygrometer so you can check the specific gravity?  That might tell you if you do have a low cell and which one.

[grumpin]

I would replace it.

Old batteries will start fine when conditions are good, but not when real cold or even when real hot.

Years ago I had a 68 C10, I was thinking this battery is awesome. Lasted a long time and always started the truck, it had a 307.

One day someone pulled out in front of me and I hit the brakes and the clutch but killed the engine, I think it got flooded and cranked for a bit then died.

Had to get a jump. The old guy that helped me asked about the battery, and I told him, he said to change it.

I miss that truck, not that engine!

[ratdude747]

No duraspark... this is an EEC-IV TFI setup. The power distribution wiring was redone about a year ago; part of it was removing the starter relay from the starter power path (direct lead to starter, secondary lead powers everything else to include the stater relay supply to the solenoid)

[ratdude747]

No I haven't. I keep forgetting these are technically serviceable.

I have a specific gravity tester for coolant but not for batteries.

[FordFETruck]

This is a good situation to use a battery charger with a battery recondition feature. I bought a HF Viking charger with the recondition feature and I tried that on my riding mower battery that's about 3 years old. Fully charged, it wouldn't even crank the engine over straight off the charger reading 13 volts. Ran the recondition process, let it sit 1.5 months through a couple of deep freezes and it cranked it over like it was summer time. My sister was complaining that her Tundra was cranking slow. I tested the cells with a hydrometer, it had 1 dead cell and another weak cell and tested about 50% of what the CCA and CA should be, this is a 2017 battery BTW. I ran the recondition feature for several hours before she had to go (it didn't even finish the process) and it brought the dead cell back to 100% and the weak cell was 100% as well. It's been several weeks now and it is cranking over like a champ.

[ArdWrknTrk]

FWIW, what kind of alternator do you have?
I'm pretty sure you have mentioned the condition of your cables and IIRC the battery terminals.

If a cold battery will not crank it's time for a new one.

I'm REALLY surprised a group 65 doesn't have enough 'berries' to crank your PMGR.
Mine is 1000A/850 CCA

Gary has the results of my PMGR "test" here on the site. somewhere.
It is not that much draw.

[Ifitaintbroke]

307 was based on a Pontiac/Oldsmobile block right?

[Ifitaintbroke]

Why not try one of these:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/fleet-heavy-duty/super-start-fleet-heavy-duty-battery-group-size-4dlt/ssbl/4dlt/v/a/5318/automotive-truck-1986-ford-f-250?q=8dlt&pos=0

[ArdWrknTrk]

MY battery works just fine, TYVM.

Besides that 4DLT won't begin to fit my battery tray, while the tray is meant for a group 65 that has the same CCA

Larry is the one with a problem.
I suspect it's because of chronic undercharging and lack of use.

[Ifitaintbroke]

I thought about trying to mount one under the truck and run the cables over the fender.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Why?  

[Ifitaintbroke]

I don't know.

[grumpin]

Ifitaintbroke wrote

307 was based on a Pontiac/Oldsmobile block right?

I don't know. GM put them in half ton trucks for some reason. Not for torque I don't think!

[Ifitaintbroke]

I know they were an oddball. I've dealt with a couple, partswise.

[ratdude747]

Stock 60A 1G (alternator and regulator are stock replacements). Working great, passed charging tests with flying colors. 14.5V @ idle in fact...

Battery is rated at 650CCA, 810A @ 32F.

It's back to daily driver status unless they start salting the roads again. It had been taken off due to salt and radiator issues, but the latter was fixed recently (and likewise, my Ranger is off daily use due to making suspension noise again )

[ArdWrknTrk]

Sorry to hear that the Ranger is acting up.  😟

They're great little trucks, but few and far between up here due to the salt.

That battery sounds plenty big enough.
Are you sure it's not the starter that's getting weird?

[ratdude747]

Starter was replaced last year. Duralast reman.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/What-s-the-current-recommendation-on-PMGR-starters-td130935.html

The ranger has quirks. Rough idle, especially when cooled down for 20 mins after being at operating temp (OBDII says it's a lean condition, which I've narrowed down to lower intake gaskets, sadly not the loose bolt issue Ford issued a TSB on). And is rustier than sin (was a Chicago truck; rare long bed with fully optioned interior combo). I'd love to body swap it with another (ideally a 1997 with a 4.0 so I'd get a 5R55E instead of my current 1995 4R55E), but suitable trucks are rare and out of budget. The existing body and frame honestly isn't worth fixing (due to the known history and long list of bad areas). I haven't dug into what the popping in the suspension is... I suspect tie rod ends as everything else up front has been replaced in the last 7 years. But it's the longest I've ever owned a vehicle (Just over 7 years, January 2017).

[ArdWrknTrk]

I remember
But I can't say I have high opinions of most big batch remans, even Motorcraft.

There is a saying that I can't repeat here.

Maybe try one from DB?