Clutch Lever Dust Boot for 302/SROD?

[Bronco638]

It seems that no one reproduces a clutch lever dust boot for the 302 with cast iron clutch housing.

I tried to find the boot in the diagrams and failed. I do know that the Clutch Housing is E0TZ 7505-C and the lever is E0TZ 7515-A. From the Shop Manual, I do know that the main part of the part number is 7513 (which the Manual refers to as a 'shield'). I just don't know the prefix and suffix.

I figured I'd try to find something that's close, dimensionally, from another Ford vehicle but without the Ford part number for the (discontinued) boot, I have to go by dimensions and/or appearance (which isn't easy because not all sites provide dimensions).

I measured the hole in the clutch housing: 3.125" x 2.5" (x 2.5" in height)

Can anyone provide the dust boot part number (and maybe explain how you found it so I can figure it out next time)? TIA.

[ArdWrknTrk]

What's the difference between 2 and 4wd bells in 1980?

[Bronco638]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

What's the difference between 2 and 4wd bells in 1980?

I do not see a distinction between two and four wheel drive for the clutch housing. I've looked in the site's documentation (LINK) as well as my 1980 Ford Shop Manual ), page 16-02-4. The illustration description reads; "Clutch installation - F-100-350 and Bronco with 4.9 (300 CID) and 5.0 (302 CID) Engine".

I know the illustrations in the shop manual are for reference only but the illustration on the previous page, which is for "Clutch Installation - One-Piece Flywheel Housing - E-100-350" shows the clutch housing with the four ribs and one vent hole. The F Series clutch housing illustration shows the clutch housing with nine ribs and two vent holes. Based on that, it would seem I have the clutch housing for the E-Series vans but the site's documentation (linked above) shows the same part number for 80-86 F100/350, U150 (w/o 351M/400) and 80-86 E100/350. The clutch housing part number changes in 1983.

Other things I do know; my clutch housing is cast iron and the transmission doesn't seem to want to come out of it (as if the input shaft housing is stuck in the housing or rusted to it).

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm thinking it must be C5TZ-7513-A, the same as any previous ones.
When I go into applications this is what I find for 1980... but I know it's the same for 82, & 3

It changed for '84 because that's when the Windsor pattern bell trucks got hydraulic clutch.

https://a.co/d/2OVYehi

[Bronco638]

Thanks Jim. It's Amazon so I'll give it a try. But, based on the dimensions, it's not going to work. The opening in my clutch housing is 3.125" x 2.5". The Amazon one is 3" x 3". But, we have Prime so if it's wrong, it can go back for free.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Amazon is weird with dimensions.

Sometimes it's the package size, sometimes it makes no sense at all!  

But it does say that it fits 1980, so if it's wrong they're good about returns. (Usually 😡!!!)

[Bronco638]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Amazon is weird with dimensions. Sometimes it's the package size, sometimes it makes no sense at all!  

Well, that's not helpful.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

But it does say that it fits 1980, so if it's wrong they're good about returns. (Usually 😡!!!)

[ArdWrknTrk]

I finally got a new phone.
Ordered some screen protectors and a case.
It went out for delivery, but was never delivered.
I tried to get reimbursed but there's no option for failed delivery.
There's no delivery  confirmation or picture of it on my doorstep but they demand that I return it within a window now expired.

I call BS but I can't be bothered to let this stuff frustrate me

[Bronco638]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I finally got a new phone.
Ordered some screen protectors and a case.
It went out for delivery, but was never delivered.
I tried to get reimbursed but there's no option for failed delivery.
There's no delivery  confirmation or picture of it on my doorstep but they
demand that I return it within a window now expired.

I call BS but I can't be bothered to let this stuff frustrate me

If you're a Prime member, that usually requires a phone call and you'll get a positive resolution. My wife has had to do that in the past.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I definitely have Prime, but no phone #.
I'm too easily frustrated with situations like this to bother over $15.
They've failed to deliver literally one time out of hundreds.
It's not a hill to die on when you're dealing with a leviathan.

[viven44]

Don't believe there is a phone number. You chat with them. Hope link below works when you are logged in.

https://www.amazon.com/message-us?ref_=fs_hub_gateway_mu¶digm=foresight&muClientName=foresightCsai

If above doesnt work then try the below

https://www.amazon.com/Live-Chat/s?k=Live+Chat

Click contact us --> Something else --> Some thing else

[Bronco638]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I definitely have Prime, but no phone #.
I'm too easily frustrated with situations like this to bother over $15.
They've failed to deliver literally one time out of hundreds.
It's not a hill to die on when you're dealing with a leviathan.

I totally get this and $15 isn't worth the time or effort. And, yes, maybe it is a chat session over the 'net. My wife always seems pretty pleased after one of those sessions so they must tilt in our favor. That said, pick your battles, Jim...

[Bronco638]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I'm thinking it must be C5TZ-7513-A, the same as any previous ones.
When I go into applications this is what I find for 1980... but I know it's
the same for 82, & 3

It changed for '84 because that's when the Windsor pattern bell trucks got
hydraulic clutch.

https://a.co/d/2OVYehi

I finally had an opportunity to drain the trans., clean the inside of the clutch housing and the outside of the transmission. I was able to confirm that the above part number is correct and fits perfectly. While I ordered it thru Amazon (from a company called Auto Krafters), the part came in zip top bag with a Dennis Carpenter sticker on it.

Now, I need to figure out what kind of lubricant to put back in the trans. The old lube has a red tint to it but I do not think it's ATF. It has a hint of the differential gear lube smell but isn't as viscous. Although, the FSM says it's supposed to be 80 weight.

I'm pretty sure we ran 80w90 gear lube in the GT-350s.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Could be Redline MTL....  💡

[85lebaront2]

I was just reading through some of the posts and saw your comment about running 80-90 wt gear lube in the GT350s. I ran that in mine, I actually never had the close ratio T10 as the transmission had been "stolen". I was told the police had recovered it and I should be able to get it back from them with the car titled in my name. Not quite, the Suffolk VA police never even had a report, they said he probably sold it.

The engine was out of the car and in a local machine shop (that's how I got the car, owner told me the car was for sale). I wound up with two different transmissions, a wide ratio T10 and a Ford toploader. For street use, the wide ratio was great. Detroit locker was gone, rear end gear was a 4.56, which did get replaced with a proper 3.89 gear and a new "silent" Detroit locker (if that was silent, I really do not want to hear the non-silent one).

I had the car for 11 years, 1970 through 1981, sold it because we had 3 kids and needed the money. Current owner is in Sidney, NSW, Australia, car was SFM6S2050. Here is a picture:

This was at a high speed event at an, at the time, unused portion on a local airfield, this a turn from one taxiway onto one runway. It was called "Corvette corner" because 19 of the first 20 cars spun trying to make it, car 20 was a GT350, not mine though.

[Bronco638]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Could be Redline MTL....  💡

Thanks for the reminder Jim. There's been a thread going on over at FTE and I recall Redline MTL was posted by one member. Of course, everyone has the 'magic sauce' for your application...

Is there anything that's 80 weight and made for transmissions (like the old SROD) anymore? Or, are there only modern lubricants that will work in old(er) gearboxes? I have no issue with using modern lubricants but would prefer something that won't attack soft metals (like syncros) and not breakdown. The SROD has a reputation for not being 'up to snuff' and I'd prefer not to test that.

[Bronco638]

Bill, I started an Early Shelby thread here: LINK. I've got some good stories, too. See you there.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's not the multi-viscosity thing that attacks brass, it's chlorine that eats zinc.
This stuff is usually added for limited slip fluid so the clutches stay clean and don't glaze.

I can't really say which gear oils have, or DON'T have it, but one whiff will tell you.
If there's an oil analysis over on BITOG you can know for sure.

I'm only getting 15 minutes for lunch today, so I can't look right now..

[Bronco638]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I can't really say which gear oils have, or DON'T have it, but one whiff
will tell you.

Would that be the distinctive smell of 80w90 gear oil? The fluid I drained had a hint of that but not as strong.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's a bit different, obviously you have the extreme pressure additive smell, but chlorine is a distinct overtone.  (?)

Maybe it's just that I'm old enough to remember the different refinery smells (and paint factories, and my dad's plastic plants, etc..) in northern New Jersey.

My neurodivergent senses and 'special' interest in energetic chemistry mean I'm well aware of danger!  

It's federal law that they have to provide you with an SDS at the point of purchase, so just ask the sales person, or look it up online.