Cam Break-In is done! So good, so far!

[ArdWrknTrk]

You need to actually put pressure on the rings to get them to seat.
'Babying' I new engine is not recommended.
Nor is keeping the rpm's at one speed.
You may not want to push it past 3.000 rpm for the first few hundred miles but you definitely don't want to glaze the cylinders and have to pull it apart to re-ring either.

[ReneH]

Ok, so you think I should also test if my kick-down cable works, when the engine is warm...

I have had to replace the old one, cause it was defective. I wasn't able to check if it works or if I have to adjust the setting...

[ArdWrknTrk]

The purpose of break-in oil and a break-in procedure is to get all the components of a new engine to lap into one another.

These are old style engines using old style metallurgy, machined to old style tolerances.
Your cam made it past the first 20 minutes, don't screw it up now.

Edit  The most important things are: don't lug the engine, vary the rpm, put it under load (either running it up through the gears or bursts of acceleration on the highway)
You want to make it work and then let off so surfaces can cool down and oil can bathe away any possible contamination.

Engine builders break in engines on the dyno every day.
It's not gentle, but it's respectful.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim is right.  You don't need to wind it up too much, but certainly get on the throttle and get some cylinder pressure up to seat the rings.

[ReneH]

Ok, I'll do so. It's also what I'm feeling it's the right way.

Back to my open cases:

1. About the breaks
I'll buy new pads from rockauto.com. I'm thinking about also to buy new disks, only to be sure. If my disks are ok...fine. the new ones can be put into my stock. If not, I have all them here to change it.

Can you recommend me a set or single disks and pads available at rockauto?
Here are some images of my breaks and front axle:





And the rear axle regarding the bearings:



As ordering the break-parts, I'm also thinking about to add new bearings to my order. Maybe someone also have a recommendation for front and rear wheel bearings?

Before the next trip, I'll check the idle vacuum and idle rpm, change the plugs and add some oil to my C6.
What amount of vacuum should I have and what idle rpm will be best for my engine configuration?

[ReneH]

So, I have found these parts...


Are they ok? Should I choose others?

About the bearings and according seals, I'm helpless...I don't know what I need for my front and rear axle...

[ReneH]

Ok...I really need help choosing the parts. How can I determine which steering gearbox I have/need?


How can I identify if I need the 3 1/4" gearbox?

The play is definitely inside the box. I can turn the steering wheel, the input shaft of the box moves simultaneously, but the steering lever doesn't move...

[Gary Lewis]

Let's see if I can answer the questions.

First, Bosch and Raybestos are good brands.  But do you need to replace the wheel bearings and seals?  On brake jobs I usually don't.

As for the steering gear box, it does sound like the box is the problem.  But there is only one box for all of these trucks - assuming power steering.  So all of these SHOULD fit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1986,bronco,5.8l+351cid+v8,1105861,steering,steering+gear,7416.

However, be aware that all of these are remanufactured.  And since the front of the shaft uses the cast iron of the box as a bearing, all boxes are worn at that spot to some extent.  Rebuilders just check to see if the box is within their tolerance before rebuilding.  But that means that all of those boxes are less precise than they were new, and they might not meet your expectations.

On the other hand, Redhead and Blue Top bore the box out and press a real bearing in, so in that way the box is better than new.  But I don't know if either of them ship to Germany.  And I believe they require your box to be sent in to be rebuilt.  However, I have a few of them and we might be able to work out a deal where I ship one in for you.

[ReneH]

Hi Gary,

thanks for the answers. I don't want to change the bearings if it isn't necessary. But as I need to order from rockauto.com and the bearings all are not really expensive, I want to add them. Cause if I need them another time, I have to pay more shipping for only order the bearings...

About the steering box: I understand. Your suggestion sounds good to me. I have a sipping address in the USA, so receiving packages won't be a problem...
Bill already have had send goods to this address. So, let's talk about this deal.
You also can send an email to me for the price and details.

[Gary Lewis]

On the bearings, it makes sense to get them while you are shipping things over.

As for the steering box, I just sent you an email.  I'm sure we can make a deal - I'm cheap.  

[ReneH]

Yes, but with the bunch of available parts and different diameters, I don't know which to choose...neither for the front nor the rear bearing...

[ReneH]

Regarding the discs, I've seen that there are different ones for the different wheel hubs...

I have manual freehubs...are these the correct discs?

[Gary Lewis]

My German is not nearly as good as your English, but in my view of the Rock Auto site I see RAYBESTOS 6048R, and I see that on your page as well.  So I'm pretty confident that if you pick from their site you'll get the right parts.

And for the most part there is only one option.  For the front there's only the Dana 44 TTB setup for all Broncos, so all of the parts should be right.  However, for the rear there's the 8.8" and 9" rear axle.  So you need to determine which one you have.  The 9" has no rear cover, but the 8.8" does.  Which do you have?

[ReneH]

OK, thanks. I've only asked, cause there was no information about it fits to manual hubs...

As you see on the image upon, I seem to have a 8.8", cause I have a rear cover...
Thanks. So I'll order these parts.

EDIT:
For the front there are some described with "inner", "outer" and also some only with "front"...others are seems to fit only starting from a frame serial and above...

It seems not to be as easy as you've said, Gary...

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, I'll see if I can figure it out later tonight or tomorrow.  Sorta hit the wall just now as I've been trying to install ethernet routers at church all day and it just won't work, so might not get it tonight.

So what is your serial number?

[AmericanSavage]

Love the way you put together that engine—nice and clean and appropriately colorful.  

[AmericanSavage]

Gary Lewis wrote

On the bearings, it makes sense to get them while you are shipping things over.

As for the steering box, I just sent you an email.  I'm sure we can make a deal - I'm cheap.  

ReneH:

I highly highly recommend you get the Red or Blue top.  I have the blue—it is worth every penny.

[Gary Lewis]

Rene - I know I'm late, but today has been a "down" day.  Not been feeling well, and Janey urged me to rest up, thinking that working in the heat as I have been doing is why I'm not feeling well.

Anyway, as I understand it you are looking for the wheel bearings and seals, front and rear.  In front you should have the D44 TTB and in back you said you have an 8.8".  Plus you have manual hubs.  And I have the serial number.

I'm going to work from Amazon's site rather than Rock Auto since it is easier to navigate.  From that I see you'll need:

Front inner seal: Timken 4350  Rock Auto  Amazon

Front inner wheel bearing: Timken Set37 Note: You can see this on Rock Auto's page here when you scroll down to Standard Kit.

Front outer wheel bearing: Timken Set45 Note: You can see this on Rock Auto's page here when you scroll down to Standard Kit.

I think this is what you need for the front.  Will work on the rear in another post.

Ok, the webpage is updated to include the Broncos - U150.  So here's that info and the indicated parts list so I can refer back to it:

[ReneH]

Thank you for the praise and also for the recommendation of Blue Top.

So, I'll order this after getting a reply to my email to them.

[ReneH]

Hi Gary. Thanks!
Do not stress yourself. Health is most important! So if you need a break, you should take one.

I'll check the partnumbers on the list. Now, as looking fist times on the rotors, I've seen why they are squiking...


The former owner said the breaks are new...but as I've seen now, he only changed the pads and left the old, shrunk rotors.
So, no wonder about the noise...

Maybe I should open a new thread, cause I have different questions about the restore by now.

As I have 250 miles driven since yesterday, I think and hope the cam and lifters won't so strange things anymore...