Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Transition to Glass temperature.

I.e. when they become molten and fuse together.

Makes sense.  Supposedly that's somewhere around 380 degrees for the majority of the powders, but some flow out a bit lower.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary,
Can you disclose the cam specs for your short block, or is that proprietary information?

[Gary Lewis]

I'm not sure.  I'll ask Scott.

[1986F150Six]

Nice work, Gary!

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, David.  Even if it is OTT?  

Mid-day update.  I awoke in the middle of the night worried that I'd not kept the rocker arm seats and the rocker arms themselves in pairs when I bagged them.  And if not I've heard you risk them galling and then failing.  But, I did keep them paired, and they are now in the parts washer.

Meanwhile the cast aluminum valve covers are cooling after their one hour baking at 400 degrees to drive off the impurities in the recesses.  Otherwise that stuff vaporizes and blows the powder off when you cure the powder, leaving holes that look like fish eyes in paint.  Then I'll rinse them with brake cleaner again, dry them with heat, and then coat them with powder.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, as things are washing and cooling, I have a question to ask of Scotty: How do I check for the right pushrod length?

Looks like I have Sealed Power RP-3288's as that's what they say on them, which are supposed to be 8.592" long.

[1986F150Six]

"How do I check for the right pushrod length?"

Using something like this?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-9001/overview/

[ArdWrknTrk]

8.55" is stock
But you not only need to account for the decking, but installed spring height.

Using a check (adjustable) rod is the best answer.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - Scott says that it is a custom cam, called Voo Doo, and you can see the specs on this FB page where he documents the EFI engine he builds.  And, other than the heads my short block is basically that engine.

That came in a conversation with him just now re how to check push rod length.  (I will have to have new push rods as the walls on the OE ones I have are too thin and "will pretzel" according to Scott.)  And here's the instructions:

1. Bring #1 up on TDC on the compression stroke
2. Install the OE push rods and rockers for the intake and exhaust valves for #1
3. Tighten the bolt down slowly on each rocker until all of the slack has been taken out of the valve train
4. Then carefully turn the rocker bolt until the rocker is down against the head and count the turns required to do so

The right length push rod, which he expects to be 8.550", will take 1/4 to 1/2 turn to pull the rocker down.  But my 8.592" rods will probably take over 1 full turn.  Anyway, I'll call and tell him how many turns and he'll know which rods to ship me.

[Gary Lewis]

David & Jim - Was busy composing my last post so didn't see yours.  Maybe mine answered yours?

As for what I did today, I transformed a couple more parts:

[85lebaront2]

Gee, I have a pair of those, look just like that, I wonder where they came from?

[85lebaront2]

Ok, interesting, my Sig Erson cam is 292 and 310, or 214 and 226 @ .050 tappet lift, 114+4 listed as lobe separation. Lift is 0.517 intake and 0.536 exhaust. We called Erson and he asked how much tuneabilty I had using the MAF system compared to the SD system. The builder set the lifter position with the Ford racing shims. My rockers are Scorpion 1.73 ratio.

[Gary Lewis]

85lebaront2 wrote

Ok, interesting, my Sig Erson cam is 292 and 310, or 214 and 226 @ .050 tappet lift, 114+4 listed as lobe separation. Lift is 0.517 intake and 0.536 exhaust. We called Erson and he asked how much tuneabilty I had using the MAF system compared to the SD system. The builder set the lifter position with the Ford racing shims. My rockers are Scorpion 1.73 ratio.

Looks like you have more cam than I have.  That FB page says the cam is "Custom ground SD EFI friendly 207 / 219 / 113.6 LSA in at 107.5 ICL for chain stretch", and I found my notes that say it has .500/.525 lift.

As for the valve covers, they should look "just like that" as the powder came out of the same bottle.  

Had thought I might do the timing cover with the same powder, but I just realized that the timing cover needs to be on in order to put the water pump on, and I want to paint the water pump blue with the block and heads.  So, I guess the timing cover will be painted blue as well.

And, speaking of the water pump, I remember you pointing out that Huck's engine didn't have the backing plate on the water pump, which is what broke the bracket.  Apparently water pumps don't come with the backing plate as the one I got from Scott doesn't have it.  Where do I get one?  Guess I'll go look in the MPC.....

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, the Cover (Water Pump) is part number C8SZ 8508-A, and it is amazing the price differences I found with this Google search.  From $20.70 to $39.98.  With shipping it comes to basically $30 from Ford Parts Giant, and it is on its way.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The FRPP part # for the backing plate is different, and available Amazon Prime (one day for me)
The price was right in there.

[Gary Lewis]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

The FRPP part # for the backing plate is different, and available Amazon Prime (one day for me)
The price was right in there.

Jim - What part # are you seeing?  Here's the Amazon listing for the PN I found - $34.93.

[ArdWrknTrk]

M8501-460BP

It was $29xx when I bought it in February of 2017

[Gary Lewis]

Interesting.  Looking at the pics of the Ford Racing one vs the Ford one they look the same.  And the prices are pretty much the same as well.

[85lebaront2]

They are stamped out in the same plant I will lay you odds.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If you recall I was in a jam, so I ordered the one I could get fastest.

Pretty obvious that the part through the rear counter would carry a C8 p/n as that's when Ford started making 429's.