Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

I guess I'm used to reading the transmission cross member TSB, and didn't bother to download this PDF because of throttling.

Ford says to wedge between frame and cross member (as there is NO frame liner back there)

Insert the slip sheet, and torque to spec.  👍

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I think that's the way to do it.  I believe it all has to do with movement between the crossmember and whatever it is touching, which is the frame itself in both cases.  I'm planning to get that done today so I won't forget it later.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, I think that's the way to do it.  I believe there has to be movement between the crossmember and whatever it is touching, which is the frame itself in both cases.

FIFY...

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks.  

[Steve83]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

By welding any joint you create a hard spot...

But that's the whole point of line-reaming the huck hole to fit the new larger bolt - to ELIMINATE any movement at that location.  And the movement there was the reason for the noise, and the TSB - movement was the problem to be fixed/stopped.  Welding is just a guarantee that it won't ever start moving again - it doesn't change the stiffness of the joint or frame, so it won't cause any of the problems you listed.

[85lebaront2]

Gary, reading it the wedge is used to temporarily great a gap to keep the crossmember to frame contact removed for a test drive. You aren't doing a test drive. Maybe Thursday (after we get our monthly dog grooming and shopping excursion over with, I will pull Darth in far enough to get on the floor and use my borescope to examine and photograph the top of the area in question.

FWIW, Darth is an import, came from Oakland Ontario Truck plant. I don't know if the frames were assembled there, or, like Norfolk assembly came in from Dearborn complete on rail cars.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Uh, ok.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, if there ever was proof that instructions make things seem easier than they actually are, this one takes the cake:

With the wedge still in place, insert the Bearing between the #1 crossmember and frame liner. Align the strip approximately centered and extending well past the hole location.

What they don't tell you is that any place you can put a wedge to open up the crossmember/frame interface the wedge will be where you need to put the bearing strip.  Finally, after over an hour of trying, I wedged it open where the strip was to go and then came in from under the crossmember with just the edge of a pry bar.  That allowed the strip to go all the way in side-to-side, and far enough to the rear of the hole to be effective.  But it is impossible, at least from what I can figure out, to get it centered front/rear because of the wedge.

Here's the bearing installed and with the wedge, a pry bar, still in the best place I could find:




At this point I had to gently drill through the bearing strip w/o getting into the metal.  I have a 39/64" bit and ran it in by hand.  That left a little bit of the bearing strip sticking out in the hole and the bolt didn't want to go through, so back in went the 5/8" reamer, again run by hand, and that cleaned it up such that the bolt would go it.

Then, having already cut the G5 bolt to length, I tried to insert it through the little opening and drop it into the hole, all while holding a washer in place with my pinkie.  After another long session of using magnets, screwdrivers, and/or forceps I went to Plan B:




That worked better than I could have dreamed.  I held the washer with my pinkie and laid the bolt right where it needed to be - on top of my finger.  Pull the finger out slowly and push down on the wire, and the bolt went into the hole.  Just a bit more pushing on the wire and the hot-melt glue let go from the bolt.  Then I reached in with a screwdriver and pushed the bolt home.  Placing the nut and washers on and the 3/8" lathe bit behind the bolt head let me tighten it to 185 ft-lbs, and I had this much bolt sticking out.  Just enough to dress slightly and then tack weld after I re-torque things when the truck is back on the ground.




Now back to the Sky RSK.....

[ArdWrknTrk]

Do you think the plastic will be ok with the heat of welding?

Did you consider just using a punch, or peening the protruding bit of bolt?

[Gary Lewis]

The plastic will be protected by the frame and frame liner from the heat of welding, so I'm pretty sure it'll be fine.

But I didn't think about punching or peening the end of the bolt.  I'm doing it 100% to the TSB.  May not be the best way, but I'm playing by the book.  

Now for another aspect of Big Blue's transformation - the engine.  Or more specifically the heads.  I have an appointment with Eric Weingartner Thursday evening to have him figure out what to do to them to ensure they'll work well with Scotty's cam.

Yep, I've decided to order a short block from Scotty.  It'll be zero decked, and he says that with the dished EFI pistons and what Eric's done to the heads the compression ratio will be "in the low nines".

[ArdWrknTrk]

Eric will need to cut the guides down with a piloted spot facing type bit.

It's a simple operation (relatively speaking)

[85lebaront2]

Sounds about right, Darth's new engine is 9.3:1

[ArdWrknTrk]

How much torque, Bill?  

Whose cam did you use?  🤓

[85lebaront2]

Sig Erson cam, 261021, torque, be hard to find out, no one I have found has a dyno that a crew cab DRW truck can use, biggest issue is the wheelbase, 168".

[ArdWrknTrk]

We don't hear much about Erson, Isky, or any of the old brand cams any more.

Doesn't make them any less good.
Just that a computer can integrate a lobe profile and grind keyed to center (of the index) faster and easier than the old school mechanical follower type grinders.

[Gary Lewis]

Took the heads in to Eric Weingartner this evening.  He checked and they were only good for .500" lift.  So he's going to top the guides, which will destroy the seals so he'll replace those as well.

So that sets me up to get with Scotty and order the short block.  Hope to do that soon.

[ArdWrknTrk]

This combo is going to be a BEAST!

I hope your son has learned some restraint.  🙏

[Gary Lewis]

He's going to have to learn to drive a stick first.  

Actually, he doesn't know any of this is happening.  I told him a bit about while we were on the Disney cruise and the other day when I pulled the engine he asked why?  So, when I get it all done I'll take him for a ride.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

You really should stroke it, as long as Scott is building the bottom end.

But that would put you off your goal of pump regular and proper quench.

521 and 10.5:1 would be pretty impressive though!  🥺

[ArdWrknTrk]

Carry some spare U-joints.....  (and yokes!).