Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

Where is circuit 33 (white/pink) if you're not using EFI at this time?

Shouldn't connector 128 just be plugged together, eliminating all of that?

What happens if 33 finds ground?
Wont it just blow a fuse?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I keep forgetting how much of this wiring is 'temporary' so you're not going to eliminate that splice, but if it were me (and I had a bunch of harnii) I'd be making a jumper and taking 33 out of the equation entirely.

190 direct to 128

[Gary Lewis]

The neutral safety switch came into being in '84, I think, and the various EVTM's show the wiring to it differently and, I think, none show it correctly.  But it appears that Ckt 32 comes from the ignition switch to the clutch switch, then out of the cab and down the frame rail to C128, which is said to be "near the dual brake warning switch on LH side of crossmember."  At C128 it either wraps back if the vehicle has a manual trans or goes to the neutral safety switch on an auto.  From there it goes back through C128 and up the frame rail to C121, which is "below the junction block" on the firewall near the steering column, where it splits with one side going to the start relay on the passenger's side and the other going to the ignition module on the driver's side.

Yesterday I couldn't find either of those connectors.  Which is strange because C128 is said to be an 18-pin connector, so should be pretty obvious.  But if I get to the shop today I'm going to go over it very closely and trace the circuit.  Somewhere there's a disconnect in it and I'm going to find it.

Then, I may do some "simplification", but not 'til I figure out what is going on.

For reference, here's where the EVTM's show the connectors"

[85lebaront2]

C128 is the one I remember on Darth, it has both halves of the starter circuit (32) and both halves of the reverse lamps, the transfer case switches (4WD and Lo), possibly a portion of the "fasten seat belts" circuit. Probably some other things too.

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - You triggered a thought and perhaps identified the connector.

I wondered how many times and where C128 is mentioned in the '85 EVTM.  Then I remembered that I have a copy of that EVTM in PDF and it has been OCR'd.  So I opened it up and searched.  It is shown in both the start circuit awa the backup light circuit, but nowhere else in circuits.

But then why is it an 18-pin connector?  The key was that while on Page 32 it is said to have 18 pins, which is what I was looking for last night, on Page 82 it is said to have 4 pins.  And I know where that connector is, I just didn't pay any attention yesterday as it couldn't be the one as it wasn't big enough.

Page 32 on the left and Page 82 on the right:

[85lebaront2]

4 pins makes sense, start and reverse lamps.

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, it is a 4-pin connector.  And I found it.

But, I may have erred.  I tried pulling the connector apart, to no avail, and then realized that I should have been testing the connection while I was working on it.  So I checked, and sure enough it was working.  However, I realized that I have to turn the key all the way, and it is possible that I wasn't yesterday.  So now it is working and I can't get it to fail.  

But, I did check everything out and the PDB is fully functional.  Oh yes, I rewired the blower relay so it is powered off the key-on relay and the relay doesn't come on until you turn the key on.

Tomorrow I'm going to check out all of the wiring running down the frame as the convolute is toast, literally.  Several pieces crumbled when I pulled on them, and I'm sure that's from all the heat off the headers.  So I'll replace that and make sure there aren't any breaks along the way.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to get a connector apart?  Even with the tabs lifted it won't budge.

[kramttocs]

On those molded ones like that one that say Pull Apart, I don't hold back. I've yet to break a tab and this includes pulling them apart in a freezing junkyard. So I say go for it but guard your elbows and knuckles.

[Gary Lewis]

I'll give it a try tomorrow, Scott.  As I said, I need to inspect every inch of that wiring, so want to get the connectors apart, cleaned, and put back together.  And all of the run protected in new convolute.

[Gary Lewis]

I didn't get to that connector today.  After adding the 1980 owner's guide to the site I added the headlight wires to the PDB, which let me put the bottom plate on it and mount it to the fender.  Then I grouped the wires, removed the vacuum reservoir and routed the wires around it, etc.

I haven't put the final tape wraps nor convolute on, but wanted to position everything before doing that.  So, this happened:




It isn't really mounted, but is in place so I can figure out where to run the wires.  And here's how I ran them today - above the battery tray using the factory tie points.  But I don't like that so will probably run the wires below the battery tray as there's a nice opening below the tray where the fender liner curves down.

[1986F150Six]

Amazing work, Gary!

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, David!

Now that I know how I want to route the wires I think I'll pull the radiator support so I can step into the engine compartment and finish routing/taping/convoluting/securing the wiring near the blower and going into the PDB.

Next would be to put the starter on and run its wiring and secure it.

Then I can truly install the radiator support and route the wiring across it, install the aux battery tray and the smart battery isolator, etc.

[1986F150Six]

And, in the not too distant future, fire up that monster!

[85lebaront2]

Gary, I looked at Darth's alternator and it is clocked to get the stud out away from the head. What I have found, if with the 3 bolts out you get a screwdriver blade under the edge of the stator core where the bolts were and pry a little at each of the three locations the stator and rear housing will come loose. Just remove the regulator/brush assembly before doing it.

[Gary Lewis]

David - I don't think starting it is going to be all that soon.  With the grandtwins coming in about 10 days I think I'm going to be having fun other ways.

Bill - I think I'm going to call this clocking "good enough".  It seems to fit the wiring that came with it nicely, and it makes it easy - I'll tell my kids it is a '95/'96 truck.  

As for what I did today, I got the PDB's wiring all buttoned/taped/zip tied up.  Here's an overall shot and you can see that I backed up on what I said yesterday - the wiring goes above the battery tray.  Turned out that the side marker light wiring isn't long enough to go down there, and I wanted to keep it in the bundle.

However, I'm a bit worried that the huge battery will need to go back against the bundle, so I need to get the radiator bolted in and that will let me set the battery in place and find out.  If that happens I'll lengthen the wires to the side marker light wires - at the same time I lengthen the turn signal lights, which I just discovered are too short.  




And, speaking of the huge battery, I've been worried that it will be too much for the tray.  But then I noticed in the MPC that there's a brace, as shown below:




So, I'm thinking I need to find one of them.  Or, make something that will go from the frame to the tray.  Thoughts?

[kramttocs]

Looking great!
Will definitely want that brace. Don't have a late model one to look at but does the 80-86 one that came with BB fit or are they too different?

For the side marker light wiring - are you planning to eventually do the DRL-1 module addition from Daniel Stern? If so you'll be cutting that wiring anyways so I'd throw in a connector of your choosing on there and you'll be ahead of the game

[85lebaront2]

The 1986 battery is different from the 1987-1996/7 those carry a group 65 battery, 1986 carries a group 56 battery.

[kramttocs]

Took another look at the photo and realized just how different the trays are so the 80-86 wouldn't work without some cutting and adding an angled piece to it. Scratch that.

[Gary Lewis]

Battery dimensions are below, from Jegs:

         L        W          H
56:  10 x 6 1/16 x 8 3/8
65: 12 1/16 x 7 1/2 x 7 9/16

According to that I should be ok with the later battery tray and my big battery.  Will have to look tomorrow to see how to brace it.  Should be able to figure something robust out.  

[salans7]

I was wondering why you hadn't installed the brace along with the batter tray.

I definitely suggest making your own as finding a rust free brace isn't necessarily the easiest thing to do and would add an extra trip to the junkyard that isn't really necessary.  Let me know if you need any measurements/pictures from the one in my truck.