Best tool? My lift!

[Gary Lewis]

I was once asked what the best tool is that I've purchased, and my answer was my lift. It has transformed the work that I do.

One instance of that is changing halfshafts on the Subaru. The first one I did was prior to getting the lift, and it took me half a day to find a way to get enough leverage to pull the upper ball joint out. But when the time came to do it again I had the lift, and the ability to pull down on the pry bar with all of my weight made the job easy.

Another is changing transmissions. The ZF5 is a tall beast, and I doubt you could get the truck high enough on jack stands to get it under. But on the lift it'll go under while on a transmission jack.

As for what kind of lift, mine is a $2000 Chinese unit, and it has worked well for several years. But the key is that it is a 2-post lift. I originally thought I wanted a 4-post lift, but then realized that they limit you significantly on suspension work, and the access to the vehicle is dramatically reduced. And, the 2-post is cheaper!

[ctubutis]

The best tool IMO depends on what I'm doing; right now I'm kinda destroying the house as I rearrange things, a SawsAll is real convenient for this. :)

[Gary Lewis]

I'll bet you are using a corded one. My son got me a Ridgid battery
operated one, but it didn't work too well as the batteries weren't up to
the task. Turns out there are Ridgid batteries and then there are
Ridgid BATTERIES.  I had 1.5 amp/hour batteries but bought a set of tools with 4
a/hr batteries. All the difference in the world!

[CountryBumkin]

I have been planning to build a new detached garage that will fit my truck, tractor, and provide workshop space, for some time now.

A lift is on the short list. How much ceiling height is needed to lift a Bullnose high enough to stand under it? I know I need 8 foot garage door openings (for my lifted truck). I'm thinking 10 foot ceilings would be good.

Also, I believe you have a four post lift. That is what I was considering for ease of access (easy to drive on).

The last shop I worked at at 4 post and 2 post lifts. Most of us headed for the 4 post for oil changes and such, whereas the 2 post was the choice if suspension or brake work was being done.

My brother has a repair shop in NJ, he says he hates the 4 post lift because the rails are always in the way and a 2-post can do everything a 4 post can but not vise-versa. So now I'm rethinking my position.
What's you opinion on this.

[Gary Lewis]

Mine is a 2-post, and I agree that a 2 can do everything a 4 can, with few exceptions. I originally thought I wanted a 4, but am so glad I got a 2 as the ramps would be in the way for almost everything. The one advantage I see for a 4-post lift is the ease of getting the vehicle on. But positioning the arms is really pretty easy when you get used to it.

As for ceiling height, I think you are in for a surprise. My ceiling is 12' high, and it is just barely enough. My lift has holes for two positions and with it in the lower position the top of the lift almost touches the ceiling. And that just raises a tall Bullnose high enough to work under, but not quite as much as I'd like.  And the biggest problem is when trying to swap transmissions as a ZF5 will only go under in certain spots on my tranny jack. In fact, Chris has recently complained about the lack of height - and he's only been here a few times. 😳  

So, what I'm about to do is to "raise the ceiling". I positioned the lift between the 2x12 ceiling joists when I installed it, so I'm going to cut the sheetrock away and dig out the insulation directly above the lift. Then, at the GTG, some of my friends are going to help raise the top bar and re-bolt it. That will raise it 11" and, by my calc's, that'll be all I want as it will allow me to walk under the arms, not just the vehicle. And a secondary benefit will be that I can put blocks between the top of the lift and the ceiling joists, which will prevent the lift from moving at all.

If I had to do it over again I'd have a 13' ceiling. Having a 12' ceiling and having the lift set at 13' will work, but I'll have to ensure the hood of a truck isn't up or it will hit the ceiling. (I'm going to use a set of garage door safety lights/receivers I have to stop the lift before a hood hits.)

[CountryBumkin]

I'm glad I asked. So 13 foot minimum - maybe 14 for a little extra margin.

I'm looking at 3-bay garage plans, and they all have standard ceiling heights (lifts not considered) so, I need to be sure to modify whatever plan I end using.

[Gary Lewis]

I would say 12' is absolute minimum, 13' is better, and 14' might be overkill.

[85lebaront2]

Since the center of my garage is 18' high, I plan on a nice 9 or 10K twin post lift without the top bar. Floor was poured with a pair of 2' square X 1' deep areas in the 3000 psi concrete floor. Lift will go high enough to walk under Darth.

[Gary Lewis]

Mine is a 9k and it is all the lift I need.

One of the things I haven't mentioned with regard to the need for height is the issue with tall trucks. If the max height is 10' and the top of a tall F250HD or F350 is already at 6', and Big Blue is there, going up 4' just doesn't make it fun to work underneath. Yes, the rocker panel may be at 2'+4'=6', but the arms of the lift will be at 4' and getting under is a pain. Even a 12' ceiling isn't quite high enough as the lift's arms are still low enough you have to stoop to get under - and believe me they do NOT move when there's a 6500 lb truck sitting on them and you forget to duck.

[FuzzFace2]

When the wife & I were looking for houses & garages (for me) I was looking if I could install a lift.
1 place did have a "me" garage with lift but we did not like the house or land it was on so garage was out.

The house we did buy has a nice "me" garage but cant install any type of lift because of the height and that is ok as I have not needed one yet and I have a nice smooth floor the jack and wheel dollies roll on.

Now I was thinking if I want a lift it would be a 4 post. I could pour a concrete pad outside one of the bay doors, see where this is going? This lift would have wheels and I could push it out side to use it, when done push it back inside.
A lot of shops down here have lifts out side only down side is I have no shade where it would be in front of the bay and it gets too damn hot even to work in the garage.

Some 4 posts have extras 1 being a try to put a jack on so if you need to remove a wheel(s) you can or drip pan so you can part another car under the car on the lift.
Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, 4-posters can roll.  Maybe you could put up a roof on stilts to put the lift under?

[FuzzFace2]

Down here they use metal top "car ports" for every thing from cars, lifts for cars, big bus type motor homes & farm equipment.

Could do that but I would not like the look it gives the main house & garage as seen from the main street. I am not be able to put it any where else and still be able to have the lift roll out onto the pad.

Good thing about that is I save the money I don't have (do we ever  have the money?) and put it to my projects.
Dave ----

[Ray Cecil]

Ya'll....mine is a four post lift. It rolls. I'd rather have a two post. However the 4 post is great for doing alignments, where you need the weight of the car on the suspension. The drawback to the 4 post is the space, elbow room between the ramps, and having to jack the car/truck up on the lift to remove a wheel or do suspension work.

Mine is a "Backyard Buddy" brand. Very stout and I've been using it for nearly 15 years.  

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, my lift is my best tool.  I'm using it right now to get Huck high enough to go on the trailer and thence to the scrap yard.  Dunno how to do that with a 4-poster though.  

[Ray Cecil]

Put the vehicle on the lift. Pull trailer up to the edge and roll the vehicle onto the trailer. I've done it many times. I also use it to remove Air Cooled VW engines. Lift the car right up off the engine. I have a heavy duty bench stool I use to sit the engines on.

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, my lift is my best tool.  I'm using it right now to get Huck high enough to go on the trailer and thence to the scrap yard.  Dunno how to do that with a 4-poster though.  

[Gary Lewis]

Did you look at my pics of Huck loaded on the trailer?  How many wheels did you count on Huck?  

As for removing things, I've used the lift to remove many gas tanks, heavy trailer hitches and bumpers, etc.

[Ray Cecil]

Gary Lewis wrote

Did you look at my pics of Huck loaded on the trailer?  How many wheels did you count on Huck?  

As for removing things, I've used the lift to remove many gas tanks, heavy trailer hitches and bumpers, etc.

HAHA. No I hadn't even heard of "Huck" yet. Yeah, may as well just push it off the lift and let it land where it lands.

[Gary Lewis]

Huck = Half Truck.  His frame was cut under the cab so the bed could be used as a trailer.  I bought him for the E4OD & associated crossmember to use as a core to go in Dad's truck.  And I got a running EFI'd 460 w/late model heads, fuel tanks & fuel lines, and the best pan w/a dip stick with an o-ring.

Portions of the roof are going to Australia with Darin/Oz Econoline, and he already has the front crossmember.  Jim/ArdWrknTrk got a seat belt, I used a seat belt buckle on Big Blue, the later style battery tray will go in Big Blue.  The transfer case and huge front bumper were given to a friend, and other bits have gone to various homes.

So, tomorrow I'll take what's left of Huck to the "recycling center".

[Steve83]

I'm in the middle of rebuilding a 4-post Rotary.  This & the NEXT dozen pics show the progress:

[Gary Lewis]

That looks so GOOD!  And after what it looked like out in the woods, that's really impressive.  

It looks like it was a lot of work.  But everything was there?  My fear of basket cases is that a critical part will be missing.

And it sure is close to the door.  How high can a vehicle be and miss the door if it is open?