Alternator replace, advice please

[85lebaront2]

Gary, I figure that between the nasty cleaner I used to use at Preston, the stuff I worked around in the shipyard, asbestos dust from Mercedes-Benz brakes etc., if I haven't died from it by now I am probably not going to. My biggest risk is colon cancer that my mother died from in 1970 at age 51. As a result I get to drink crap and get probed every two - three years.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Whatever was in that old formula Hydro Seal dip was absolutely evil  👿

Remember when Gumout used to crackle coming out of the can?

[1986F150Six]

I worked in several laboratories for a well known company's refinery and chemical plant. I remember reaching into the cabinet for Oleum with all safety personal protective equipment on. The bottle was heavy [very dense] and when the top was removed, vapor [sulfuric acid] immediately came out.

Industrial work can be dangerous as has already been pointed out.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Liquid rather than solid?

We're you making explosives?  

H2SO4 + trioxides is very dense.
Not mercury dense, but almost twice the SG of water.

[1986F150Six]

It was used in the refining process. It was handled in a fume box. It was very slippery, so if any got on the glass bottles, it made for a dangerous situation.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Petroleum refining?
Alkane catalyst?

Hence the name Oleum (oil)


**** It's ok. Most of us know (most of) what's going on at Oak Ridge.  LOL

[85lebaront2]

The stuff we used made Hydro Seal look tame. Any plastic pieces like an Autolite fast idle lever left in longer than a couple of minutes came out as mush. One of my employees left an AFB in overnight (forgot about it while we were pulling customers cars inside that were left overnight) next day the brass tubes were brittle and crumbled and the carb body and cover were copper colored (plated).

Fortunately I was able to get a new one for the customer.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The old Hydro Seal would eat all the brass out of a carb overnight.
This new stuff.... ha!
Why bother?

We used to get an ELF race gas in a turquoise can that we had to blow and then rinse out of the bikes every day.
It would eat the bowls of the carbs and completely dissolve the bottoms of aluminum tanks otherwise.
That stuff smelt like nothing else before or since (but it did pass tech back then)

[BuggTruck]

Yeah there was no room really to finnagle around between the air pump and fan shroud. It was easy to take off. Still had to reach up from the bottom to reinstall alternator. Amazon delayed my wires till today so i just finished putting everything back together. Truck runs.

Now, how the help do i get the alternator belt tight enough to make it stop screaming?

[ArdWrknTrk]

It screams all the time, or it just chirps on startup?

Don't tighten the belt too much.
It will kill the bearings in the alternator.
How big a pry bar are you using to tension it?
How much deflection do you get midspan?

Is your old belt glazed, or did you replace it?

What is the state of charge of your battery?
If you charge the battery fully does the squeal stop then?

Sorry for all the questions.
Just trying to think it through.

[BuggTruck]

Note to self: next time attach air pump outlet before tightening air pump.

Screams intermittently. But battery was below starting power. Have it on a charger tonight. While Idling, it did stop squeling after a minute.

I replaced all the belts.

I dont know how much deflection, its getting dark and i get to do this in a drive way, ill measure tomorrow.

I dont have a pry bar (ill double check in garage) but even if i did im not sure where i would stick it. Only way i can get to alternator is up through the bottom of the truck while laying on the ground. I can grab alternator and pull really hard while i tighten. On the PS there was a nice hole to pull on, that one seems tight like before. Squeal seems to be either alternator belt or air pump.

[ArdWrknTrk]

BuggTruck wrote

I dont know how much deflection, its getting dark and i get to do this in a drive way, ill measure tomorrow.

I dont have a pry bar (ill double check in garage) but even if i did im not sure where i would stick it. Only way i can get to alternator is up through the bottom of the truck while laying on the ground. I can grab alternator and pull really hard while i tighten.

Squeal seems to be either alternator belt or air pump.

Some people say their 3G chirps on startup.
Mine doesn't seem to. Note what Dave said about LRC regulators above.

Deflection can be difficult to measure.
I usually go with impossible to twist the belt more than 90* in the middle of the run.

I doubt 'hand tight is going to do it.
You don't need anything fancy. A big screwdriver is fine.
I don't have a Windsor, but I can find a spot between block and alternator from below.

If you think it might be the AIR pump just take that belt off...

Hope these suggestions help.

[85lebaront2]

You should have a lug wrench underhood, left side behind the fender liner. If you do it will suffice for a pry bar.

[BuggTruck]

Nope, i have the thing masquerading as a jack on the right but the lug wrench did not come with my truck. My dad has a crow bar and I've enlisted his hands. Smog pump belt is coming off until everything else is in line.

[Steve83]

BuggTruck wrote

Screams intermittently. But battery was below starting power. Have it on a charger tonight. While Idling, it did stop squeling after a minute.

The WHOLE starting & charging system needs to be in good condition for any alternator to work right.  The difference is that, when your 3G works, it works MUCH HARDER than the previous one could.  That's why you get some squeal.

Start with the battery terminals, and continue to ALL the terminals on the heavy cables, as explained in the captions of this photo album:

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary,
I updated the links in the other thread and added a link in this thread for the stator pigtail mentioned -to Amazon- (keeping with BuggTruck's links for Alt & regulator pigtail)

I revised the talk about the mistaken 20A fuse as Steve pointed out it was NOT in the Y/W sense wire.

Hopefully this will help someone who happens across your 3G swap tutorial.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - Thanks.  I found the stator pigtail link, so will go look for the others in the other thread.  

[BuggTruck]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Gary,
I updated the links in the other thread and added a link in this thread for the stator pigtail mentioned -to Amazon- (keeping with BuggTruck's links for Alt & regulator pigtail)

I revised the talk about the mistaken 20A fuse as Steve pointed out it was NOT in the Y/W sense wire.

Hopefully this will help someone who happens across your 3G swap tutorial.

The talk of the 20 amp fuse seems the same...

3g conversion - wiring tab wrote

(If you look closely, in the picture above the yellow/white wire connects to the alternator side of the fuse and is protected by the 20 amp fuse in the fuse holder.)  But, my harness does not have a fuse, and some form of circuit protection is absolutely necessary.  See below.

Ok, got everything tight but not to tight. I dont have a measuring device, but can twist the belts a quarter of a turn and there is no squeak. However now my smog pump is making noise inside. Ideas?

20190702_115512_1.mp4

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, I don't think Gary has edited out any suggestion that the fuse is in the Y/W wire yet.

And my links to more stable suppliers add a bit to the costs I was discussing.

Screeching is usually the vanes rubbing inside the housing.
Give it a good shot of powdered graphite in that inlet.

Grumbling or squeaking bearing noise is more troublesome and requires a rebuild (pita) or a rebuilt pump.
I found mine cheap on Amazon.
But be very careful with the model number. Close is NOT close enough. (you've been warned  )

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ticking like that may be a cracked vane, or it might just be stuck in the hub and not expanding and contracting smoothly.
(The hub is offset in the housing and it works just like any other vane pump)

Edit: ** try the graphite. Do NOT put anything oily in there, it will kill it in a day**