Alternator replace, advice please

[ArdWrknTrk]

I *didn't* catch it.
In fact I looked right past it even when Buggtruck pointed it out.

But I do see where his confusion came from.
Whatever you see fit is fine with me.

[Steve83]

I just skimmed this thread - I've been busy/offline/fighting with the local cable company for the past few days, so I'm not sure if this has already been answered, but...

The little 20A fuse in my photo of the Expedition alternator harness protects that wire for the alternator ROTOR and voltage regulator (the INput side).  If it blows, alternator output goes to 0, just like if the 175A fuse blows.  The only way the alt will go to max output is:
1) the VR detects that it's needed, based on the system voltage; or
2) the VR is bypassed by grounding the F screw (the one labelled "GROUND HERE TO TEST" on factory VRs).

[ArdWrknTrk]

Steve,
I apologize.
In BuggTruck's thread he said the 20A fuse was in the Y/W wire.
Gary didn't seem to disagree and I'm waiting for pictures to fill on my phone.

So if you're saying the fuse is in the LG/R wire (which is what I said in the first place) then no harm would be done.

[BuggTruck]

Okay, update. Got the alternator off (and learned some new words 🤬) New wires should arrive tomorrow. Until then heres a rundown of what i need to do, and what i need to buy.
Replacing all my belts while i have them off anyway, one was cracking.
Found power steering leak, its the high pressure hose gasket at the pump. But i dont think they sell just the gasket, have to replace the whole hose 😑
Doing oil change.
Washed down engine compartment while its hot outside and truck has no power.
Doing a quick cooling system flush and replacing the thermostat. Then finally going to hook up my new heater core.
Checking vacuum hoses, i think theres a leak...

New alternator is not threaded on the ear. I have to go to hardware store and find acceptable washer, bolt, and nut. This would be a nice mention on the write up. Would save a few minutes anyway.

I can not get the stupid pulleys off the alternator. I know a mechanic i am going to talk into switching them for me in the morning.

I regret trying to make the charging cable, should have just bought one. Its fine, just a pita to do and I'm tired now.

Where can i get a spacer for the pully locally? Hardware store? Oreilys?

[BuggTruck]

A 3g upgrade is very popular on the oddly similar Mustangs of comparable years. They are fords after all and suffered from the same poorly designed alternator. And mustang owners make better YouTube videos than ford truck owners. Posting some videos for reference i thought were informative ( and one pointless one where the alternator is dismantled and turned into an engine). Mustang's though have the battery on the driver side. Weird.

An f150 plow truck 3g upgrade 

86 Mustang 2g to 3g upgrade. Long but well explained

I had 2 other mustang 3g videos but one simply reused the 2 current charge cables (thats bad 😮) and the other used a new alternator with an external regulator.

A bonus video turning an f150 alternator into a go kart motor.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The pulley will come right off with an impact wrench.
(I'm surprised Gary didn't mention this. I suppose us old dogs are too familiar)
Most autoparts stores do this every day when a customer brings in their old core for a reman.

The shim Gary shows is from Home Depot. If you zoom you can see the number and SKU.
Any good hardware should have shims.
Edit: I'm wrong ..   You need a 17mm (~11/16")ID and perhaps 1.25mm (0.050") thick.
When the old V-belt pulley goes on there won't be many threads for the nut.
Mines been fine for years since its only loaded one way. If it troubles you, use blue threadlocker.

I thought I did mention which Lester #'s were threaded 8x1.25 and which were not.
Maybe that was the other thread? Sorry...
Ask your mechanic friend to tap the ear 3/8-16 **or install a 3/8-16 Helicoil** and you can use your old bolt. (he doesn't even need to drill it out, the tap will go)

Be very careful replacing the thermostat in Windsors.
Use an adhesive gasket to hold it in place.
If it falls down and you tighten the housing you'll crack it. Damhik

Yep. That's why I said in the other thread to buy a ready made 4Ga. cable at the parts store....

I loved the video of the kid zooming around his neighborhood in an electric cart when I first saw it.
It shows you how much power an alternator can take (and why a single belt V-belt will slip above 90A)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ahhh. So I did mention threaded v/s not threaded in post #3.
Better to get it tapped 3/8 because 8mm is very sloppy in the adjuster slot.

I was going to mention your power steering leak as well but didn't want to come off as picking on you.

[85lebaront2]

Some of us do not watch YouTube videos on how to do things, we are old fashioned and prefer it in print. That way if you need to go back to look at something it is easy to do. I did my 3G conversion shortly after my MAF/SEFI conversion on Darth. I had the 2G and harness from the parts truck on initially and since the whole front harness had been updated I didn't have the strange in and out of the alternator harness to deal with. The later trucks essentially have the alternator harness as a completely separate item, only the green/red power from the idiot light connects to the front harness, the output goes directly to the hot side of the starter relay. On the 2G it still had the fusible links, but the yellow/white wire is connected to the two black/orange wires before the fusible link, not after it. At least on these a blown fusible link on the alternator will not cause it to to go crazy trying to charge through an open circuit like the Bullnose system will.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, we have several upgrades for the how-to: impact for the nut; including the part # for the spacer in the write-up instead of relying on seeing it in the pic; and maybe links to some of the videos.

However, I think the videos help us understand which engines take which size alternator.

But it irks me that the guy keeps calling a female terminal a "spade" terminal.  He should try digging with a shovel shaped like that terminal.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

A spade *connector* is both sides.

Spade socket????

(I didn't watch any of the videos)

[ArdWrknTrk]

I just noticed you removed your AIR pump entirely.
I'd suggested getting that belt out of the way.

Did you find you needed more access?
Was it that you couldn't see what was going on?

At any rate I'm going to make the suggestion that you thoroughly grease the alternator pivot bolt and the pivot hole of the alternator so it cannot seize in the future.
Ounce of prevention and all that.....

[Gary Lewis]

Grease or anti-seize?  I use the latter on things like that bolt as I worry that grease might melt and run out due to heat.  And having that bolt seize is a huge pain.  Been there, done that.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I have no love for that dirty, nasty, sticky crap.
(and you say undercarriage oil is bothersome and dirty?
Pfffffft!)

I use it precisely **three** places: spark plugs and exhaust manifolds.(and lug nuts)

There are plenty of high temp greases to use to keep the Zamak of the alternator casting from packing its corrosion around the pivot bolt.

[Gary Lewis]

It certainly IS dirty, nasty, and sticky.  And the black synthetic brake grease would probably hold up to the temps just fine.  But, it is just about as dirty, nasty, and sticky as anti-seize.  And it doesn't say Anti-Seize on the tube.  So I use the stuff that says it does what I want it to do.  And it does it as I've not had a problem with that bolt sticking since I started using it.  

(However, I have had to scrub my hands many, many times 'cause dirty/nasty/sticky stuff keeps getting on them.  )

[ArdWrknTrk]

And when you've got it on your shoe (or butt) and go back in the house???

It's over and done with.  

I now use Loctite on any normal bolt I don't want to seize.
It completely displaces air and moisture in the thread gap.
Threads are always perfect when undone.
If I don't want the extra holding power I use purple, or the white PST.

For those timing cases and alternators I usually use Red 'n Tacky or some crazy green lithium grease I got years ago.

Moly lubes are great for extreme pressure low to no speed applications. (splines, steering gear)
But I dislike them as much as Neversieze for everything else.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary Lewis wrote

(However, I have had to scrub my hands many, many times 'cause dirty/nasty/sticky stuff keeps getting on them.  )

I keep seeing these blue, black or orange things people put on their hands before doing grimey mechanic work....

While I used to wash my hands with leaded gasoline when they got greasy maybe these guys are onto something?

Wish I had invested in latex and nitrile gloves manufacturers a decade or more ago!

[Gary Lewis]

Over the last few days I've been worried that having used any number of chemicals to clean parts, like gasoline and brake cleaner, had caused a nasty bump on my left thumb.  But my doctor took one look at it and said it is a digital mucus cyst, which Janey said is caused by too much computer time.  

Anyway, it wasn't the chemicals, nor the computer, but just "it happens".  So he froze it and it is supposed to drop off in a few days/weeks.  However, the chemicals probably are not good for us and it would be wise to wear gloves.  But typically I only wear them to protect parts, like to keep oil off something I'm going to powder coat, and don't tend to wear them to protect my hands.

Having said that, there is one job where I do wear gloves - packing wheel bearings.  The synthetic grease I'm using is tenacious and very hard to get off.  So I do tend to don the little clear gloves I get at Sam's for that task.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm only 55 and I can't imagine I even have a liver left after all the industrial chemicals, heavy metals, rocket propellant and pyro stuff, smelting, sanding and stripping I've done.

But here I am.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Get yourself an (edit).Lisle 34550 Handy Packer*

It's a real timesaver and keeps you cleaner.

[Gary Lewis]

I have one, and I use it.  It does save time and keeps you cleaner, but I still get messy.  So the gloves get used a lot when I do that.