Alternator Upgrade Related Questions (was One-Wire Alternator Questions)

[dirtymac]

Ok just about done with the wiring harness.  I have plenty of pictures for reference but I need help with one wire.

The large yellow wire from the C610 plug.  If I am understanding the schematic from several months ago, it is going to connect into the 6ga wire coming from the alternator to the start relay somewhere.  I'm pretty sure its getting connecting at the 150amp fuse.  Is that right and if so, does it matter which side of the fuse?

[ArdWrknTrk]

The large yellow wire connects to the cab harness at C610 and on the cab side splits through two fusible links, providing constant power and the ignition switch with power.

I forget how Gary has it drawn, but it can go to either the megafuse lug or the always hot stud if the fender mounted starter relay. (essentially, the battery+)

[dirtymac]

Got it.  I think I may have asked that before and Gary gave an answer but I couldn't find it.

So it works.  Got almost everything hooked up and tested.  My dash is still not put back together so I couldn't test the ammeter.  I checked voltage at the battery before startup and while idling and it went from 12.5v to 14.6v.  No fluctuation.  Headlights looked good.  Choke seemed to work but I didn't have a chance to check out how well.

I've got a bunch of pictures to post later.  

[Gary Lewis]

Excellent!  

Sorry I was late to the party, but here's how I have it drawn:

[dirtymac]

The 6ga wire I had did not work out so I ended up with 4ga starter cables.  I may end up correcting this later.  Also, and partly because of the larger wires, it was easier to connect the Yellow wire from C610 to the megafuse holder.  Things at the starter relay were tight.

The yellow/light green wire of C610 ended up grounded with the starter relay mount.  I may move this to the battery eventually.

By the way, your diagram doesn't include the white/black loop between the two 3G connectors.  Obviously, that is optional and in my case, I needed it.

Oh and there was one thing I wanted to run by everyone.  The new alternator had a lock washer with the nut holding the pulley.  There was no room for the lock washer with my old pulley, so I used some anti-seize and put the nut on as tight as I felt comfortable putting it.  I'm a little paranoid it might pop off.

We did run into some slight and very short squealing.  It was only when the engine was revved really high really quickly.  I'm not sure how that will go in the long run.  I need to check the belt tightness.  I can't put a longer belt on because I only have about a half inch of room left on the alternator bracket.

I'm going to post the pictures in a new subthread.

[dirtymac]

Here are all of the pictures from removal to completion (minus cover the wires in loom.)

[ArdWrknTrk]

My alternator has been on for over a decade with no lock washer and no threads sticking out.
Though I went the opposite way you did, and put blue loctite on the threads.

I think Gary put his pulley in the lathe and ate the hole a little deeper for the nut.

Higher revs may just be pulling too much current, trying to replenish the battery to 14.35V.
The squeal isn't going to damage the belt, and as soon as it heats up from slipping the mu of the rubber will give the belt better traction (friction) on the pulley.
Some people sandblast the sheave thinking texture has better grip, but I think it will just wear the belt faster too.

I'm glad you finally came back to this, Will!
It's an excellent job you've got it done, and are now ready to dig into the next project!  

[Gary Lewis]

Good job!  

I agree with Jim, the pulley & nut doesn't seem to want to come off.  I don't have a lock washer and I'm not sure I used Loctite - on this one.  (Jim - I think it was the alternator for Dad's truck where I worked the pulley over in the lathe.  That's the dual-belt one that I widened one sheave so it'll take the same belt.)

But I'm not sure what you mean by "white/black loop between the two 3G connectors".  I do show the w/bk wire, but not two connectors.  Can you help me understand?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Sorry if I misremembered.
I do remember sending you the 2 sheave pulley I got from L&L with my alternator bracket....

He's saying that he doesn't see the stator looping from regulator to the stator connection next door on the 3G.

[Gary Lewis]

Sorry, but I'm dense.  Maybe it 'cause I've not even finished my first cuppa, but isn't this it?

[dirtymac]

Maybe I have the wrong phrasing.  The 3-wire connector for the 3G has a white/black wire.  There is also the single white-black wire for the stator.  Those two are supposed to be connected to each other and then the two connect to the choke heater?

[Gary Lewis]

The wire on the 3-pin 3G connector is the stator wire.  And it should go to the choke or the choke relay, whichever you have.

[ArdWrknTrk]

And it NEEDS to go to the grey single plug between the regulator plug and the charge stud!

[dirtymac]

The loop I'm referring to is pictured here.  I had two separate plugs, so I joined the two and then brought that to the choke heater.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - Are you saying it needs to have this wire as well?

[Gary Lewis]

Ahhh, I think the penny dropped.  That's such a good picture, I think I understand.  

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, let me offer this wiring diagram with two changes:

1. The stator wire shows going from the 3-wire connector to the stator spade as well as to the choke.

2. The yellow wire shows going either to the starter relay or the megafuse - but not both.

How does that look?  Is there a better way to depict it?

[dirtymac]

That works for me!

[dirtymac]

Alright so let's talk about the ammeter/volt meter conversion.  I hooked the dash back up tonight and the meter is not working as expected.  Instead of the needle rising up somewhere above the D as expected, it drops down well below the D.

I thought the way I grounded the yellow/light green wire from C610 might be the issue.  I grounded it to the body with one of the bolts that holds the starter relay onto the body.  So, I moved it straight to the battery and no difference.

I've verified I put the correct meter in (lol).  When I received the modified meter back, it was screwed into a little box with new nuts/washers.  I didn't use those nuts/washers to mount it into the cluster.  Instead, I used to factory nuts.  I can't image that would be an issue.

With the key on it's reading below the D as well.  D should be 12v.  I checked the battery and I do have 12v there.  Running, I am still getting 14.6v at the battery.

I'm going to try and get a reading at the volt meter but its pretty tight in there.  I haven't emailed Rocketman yet but that's possible if I can't figure this out.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Did you test it before install?  

Sounds to me like you have it wired backwards.
Try connecting your 'ground' to power, and your 'power' to ground.