Alternator Upgrade Related Questions (was One-Wire Alternator Questions)

[dirtymac]

I'm going to start a new sub-thread at the top now that I'm back to this.  I find the threaded view to be much more useful, personally.  As a brief recap, this is where I am:

- DB Electrical 400-14011 alternator, 130amp, 8.25" case
- F795 voltage regular (per Jim)
- A junkyard alternator harness from a Taurus
- New pigtails for the alternator (just in case)
- New electric choke for the carb
- Converted Ammeter to Volt meter (Rocketman)

I think that is everything so far.

[dirtymac]

We did a dry fit of the new alternator to start with.  Everything seems to fit well.  I do have two things with it that I'd like to discuss:

1) As it is currently clocked, all of the wiring harness face upward.  To me, this is ideal because they are easy to access.  My heat core hoses do run above the alternator and I intend to zip tie hem up to the old SMOG pump bracket.  I can't think of any reason why this setup would be bad.
2) The bottom bracket for the alternator does have to be pulled out ever so slightly to bolt it up.  I am attaching a picture of it.  My main concern here is that the alternator may end up cocked enough to eat up belts.  I still have to swap the pulleys and figure out shims.

[ArdWrknTrk]

This is why I say that you have to bend the kink in the adjuster arm.

You're fine, as long as the harness isn't pointing at the block.

The adjuster arm can go either front or back of the tapped 'ear' of the alternator.

Be mindful that you can simply run a 3/8-16 tap into the Zamak case and tap the hole directly from 8x1.25 to 3/8 NC.

[dirtymac]

How difficult is it going to be to bend the bracket?  I have a small vice but am I going to need to need it up?
I know there is a thread with pictures of exactly where to bend the bracket but I've lost it.  I think I can figure out where to bend it though.

Do I have to tap the alternator case or can I just get another bolt?  The only taps I have are for cleaning threads and I feel like a tap would cost more than a new bolt.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Just use a heavy hammer (3-4#)

Yeah you really need to use the existing 3/8-16 bolt.
8x1.25 is not even a sloppy fit in the adjuster arm.
You can get a tap for ~$5ish at any big box.
You don't need the set with the drill bit, it taps right out.

[dirtymac]

So my factory bracket had a slight bend in the opposite direction from what we wanted, so we basically removed that and it lined up with the rear of the ear pretty well.  Ear has been tapped.  Pulleys have been pulled.

Working on shims now. I'm definitely going to need a shim or two to get the back of the pulley off the alternator case.  I've found some old threads where the 5/8" shims have not worked so I'm looking around for something that will.

[ArdWrknTrk]

A 5/8 washer (16ish mm). Is speced sloppy from SAE.
It will usually fit a 17mm shaft.

If you go looking for a "shim", look for 17mm, because a tighter tolerance means I must fit exactly.💡

I just went through hell finding a 50-70x 0.50mm pinion shim.
It cost me $75!

Don't get stupid...

[dirtymac]

I did find some 5/8" zinc coated washers but they're wider than the recess around the alternator shaft.  They will fit over the shaft though.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Metric washers tend to have a small OD.
Look for any 17mm washer in your local hardware/auto parts...

[dirtymac]

I found some 16mm washers that had a 17mm ID and fit perfectly.  Installed the new ammeter and a new speedo cable while in the dash.  Now I'm onto the wiring harness

[Gary Lewis]

Progress!  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Progress is Gooooood!  

Are you all set with cables, fuse and pigtails Will?

[dirtymac]

I have the pig tails and a junkyard harness.  I sitll need to get the fuse and holder.  I thought I had ordered that already or picked it up but my notes say I found it at the local auto parts so that must have been my way of saying I'd just go grab it when the time came.

I posted a picture of my junkyard harness in the other thread for Gary to have a look at.  I'll post it here too.  I'm concerned because there are two orange/black wires and they don't seem all that large.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yeah, the or/bk wires are 2G.... and that's a problem.

Go to your local auto parts and get an HMEG holder and a 6Ga cable (intended for a garden tractor, or something) abt 28" long to go from the output stud of the alternator to the 150A fuse holder.

If your alternator is pointed straight up, you might figure out the fuse holder and then use a coat hanger wire to get a length for the output cable.... 💡

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, just answered.  Ford seemed to like to use two smaller wires than one big wire, perhaps for flexibility.  Anyway, just terminate them to the same place.

[Gary Lewis]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Yeah, the or/bk wires are 2G.... and that's a problem.

Good catch!  I didn't look at the connector.  

[dirtymac]

I actually have the 6Ga cable already. I have the 2 pig tails that I bought separately from Ebay so I will just wire them up in place of the junkyard harness.

I do need to verify the stator wire setup for the carb choke.  The white/black wire from the 3-wire 3G connector will connect to the status plug as well as the choke?

[ArdWrknTrk]

dirtymac wrote

I actually have the 6Ga cable already. I have the 2 pig tails that I bought separately from Ebay so I will just wire them up in place of the junkyard harness.

I do need to verify the stator wire setup for the carb choke.  The white/black wire from the 3-wire 3G connector will connect to the statOR plug as well as the choke?

Yes, that is correct, if you have a 7V Motorcraft choke cap (usually a single bullet connector)

[ArdWrknTrk]

They join at a fusible link that is nowhere near big enough for the output of a 130A 3G, which can easily reach 160A...

[ArdWrknTrk]

The problem is the blue fusible link they're spliced to....  😉