3G alternator swap - v belt question

[doni10]

Hi,

have spent the day in a pick n' pull searching for, amongst other things, a new alternator.

Thank you for the amazing write up about the 3G conversion, it like so much on this forum has been incredibly useful.

My question is, that all the 160amp alternators I found today seemed to require a serpentine belt set-up,
Is it possible to find any with a v belt pulley?

Thanks 👍

[Gary Lewis]

You can easily put a v-belt pulley on a 3G w/a serpentine pulley.  I've done it.  Jim did it.  You will need a small shim behind the v-belt pulley, as discussed on the Choosing An Alternator tab on the 3G conversion page.

[doni10]

Hi Gary,

Thanks!
Sorry if I missed that in the write up.
Will get busy searching again :)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Doni, the 3G alternators were not released until the 1990's.
I don't believe any vehicle came with one that was driven by a V-belt.

A very few were 95A alternators, most were rated at 130A. This can be determined at a glance by the number of holes visible within the three pair of front ribs on the case.

The 95A units were 130mm in diameter where the 130A version is 148mm.

Not certain if Ford ever released a 160A version, although the 130 can *peak* that high the rectifier won't last long at that output.

*autocorrect*

[85lebaront2]

There are uprated ones available, I can't recall right off who made them, as for lasting, mine has been on Darth for 9 or 10 years, I have changed one regulator and one set of brushes in that time. I bought it and the cable from a fellow in CA on FTE who needed the money, it had never been installed.

Running a V-belt you may want a slightly larger pulley and possibly the "soft start" regulator to prevent belt squeal on startup.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, the soft start, aka LRC, regulator is a very good call, Bill.  My 130a 3G squealed the serpentine/polygroove belt on the first start each day until I installed the LRC.  A 2.5 second LRC did the trick.

[Rusty_S85]

You can buy new ones with V belt pulleys already installed or you can swap your old pulley.  If you swap you will have to either move your washer on the back side or source a alternator pulley shim to move the V belt pulley off the case.

Im going to be doing the same thing myself when I get around to finishing my motor build but the only thing that is holding me up on buying my parts is the belts, Im trying to find a quality Goodyear V belt for my alternator as they used to make the gatorback belts which would grab tighter and tighter the hotter the belt got helping to reduce belt slip.  Goodyear doesnt offer this any more but they do offer generic belts that have a higher friction rate than the gatorbacks did the only problem is trying to find the proper belt so it will sit properly in the pulley.  I tried getting help from goodyear but they just want to toss me around from person to person that cant help and answer my question for a belt size recommendation.  So once I figure it out and find one that fits and can verify its fitment I will update my fuel injection post on here with the information of what belt I decided on for the alternator with the hopes of reducing the chance of slippage with the large case 3G alternator.

[Rusty_S85]

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, the soft start, aka LRC, regulator is a very good call, Bill.  My 130a 3G squealed the serpentine/polygroove belt on the first start each day until I installed the LRC.  A 2.5 second LRC did the trick.

I ordered the F5RU-10316-BA LRC myself, from all the reading Ive done this is supposed to be a 6-7 second LRC the slowest that I could find Ford offered on the 3G alternator.  I believe this was the one that was found on many Lincolns of the time.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm pretty sure this is the one I sent to Gary, but he's claiming 2.5 seconds.

I actually think it's 2.5 seconds to respond and a six second ramp-up, but I'd like to get a better understanding.

Do you have any facts you could share Rusty?

***This is the seller I bought from:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-FORD-REGULATOR-REPLACES-F5RU-10316-BA-F5RU-10316-AA-GR818-F786-/291992720149?redirect=mobile

You can see what specs they call out in the description.

[ratdude747]

In my experience (at least for my '95 ranger) I've found the opposite to be true. 95A was the norm, and 130A the "rare option". In the aftermarket they make a 200A 3G as well.

The best way to tell which you have is by the rib holes (as mentioned). 4 small holes is 95A, two large holes is 130A. Dunno about the 200A aftermarket... I didn't need that much, so I went with a JY 130 (which ended up being a dud, and served as a core for a reman unit).

[ArdWrknTrk]

In trucks 95A was the norm, but we mostly get these alternators from '92-'94 Taurus, Sables and Lincoln's.

The 3.8L V-6 has 8.25" C-C
And 3.0L has 7" C-C mounts.

130A because those cars have incredible electric fans.

... Another junkyard score for some, and some of us want the PDC box and Megafuse 👍

[Rusty_S85]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I'm pretty sure this is the one I sent to Gary, but he's claiming 2.5 seconds.

I actually think it's 2.5 seconds to respond and a six second ramp-up, but I'd like to get a better understanding.

Do you have any facts you could share Rusty?

***This is the seller I bought from:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-FORD-REGULATOR-REPLACES-F5RU-10316-BA-F5RU-10316-AA-GR818-F786-/291992720149?redirect=mobile

You can see what specs they call out in the description.

I havent used mine yet nor done my conversion yet, but from everything I could find its listed as a being a 6 second unit.  I heard rumors of there being a 12 second but I dont think it exist I think thats people misspeaking when I read that.

[Rusty_S85]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

In trucks 95A was the norm, but we mostly get these alternators from '92-'94 Taurus, Sables and Lincoln's.

The 3.8L V-6 has 8.25" C-C
And 3.0L has 7" C-C mounts.

130A because those cars have incredible electric fans.

... Another junkyard score for some, and some of us want the PDC box and Megafuse 👍

Yep, I found evidence that there was a small case with the wide ear spacing at one time but they just dont exist anymore, so you used to be able at one time get a 95A with the wide ear spacing but now all you can get in the wide ear spacing is the 130A units which is what I am going to have to run myself.

[ratdude747]

I know... I'm actually doing such a fan swap on said ranger (fan came from a thrift store for $2.50, somebody else JY'd the fan and couldn't figure it out apparently ). Getting the better alternator was partially to allow for this (plus I had warranty money to blow from the 95A one bombing on me, so why not?).

Forgot about the mounting differences... duh. Some Rangers (and Explorers) came with the 130A stock if premium options were installed. My 1995 had most of such (Security, power doors, and premium audio), but the 130A wasn't an OEM option on the Ranger until 1996. The only feature missing is power seats, which were only an option on extended cabs (mine is a regular cab, long bed, hard to find with a fully optioned interior!).

I think the 200A aftermarket 3G's come in both mounting styles. Don't quote me on that though.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, the fan and things like heated power seats in the Lincolns and upscale Mercury's really needed the extra amps.

What kind of fan controller and thermistor are you going to use?

If you're going aftermarket you can get someone to build you an alternator with a beefy diode board but ultimately there's only so much airflow through that case and if the windings get hot enough to melt the lacquer... poooof!

Stick a fork in it. It's DONE.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Aftermarket diode board is cheap enough and easy to swap if you have a big enough soldering iron.
(And I mean an iron like a roofer would use)

[Rusty_S85]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Yes, the fan and things like heated power seats in the Lincolns and upscale Mercury's really needed the extra amps.

What kind of fan controller and thermistor are you going to use?

If you're going aftermarket you can get someone to build you an alternator with a beefy diode board but ultimately there's only so much airflow through that case and if the windings get hot enough to melt the lacquer... poooof!

Stick a fork in it. It's DONE.

Or Fuel Injection or Auxiliary lights.

Thats why I am doing my 3G is cause I have auxiliary lights and want to add more but limited with OE alternator when I already have a pair of 100w driving lights and would like to add four more lights on a roll bar.  Been thinking of switching to LED but have to see the KC ones in person to see how bright they are.  Im also adding fuel injection so things such as electric fuel pump and the fuel injection itself will tax a 1G alternator quite a bit.

Im also seriously contemplating putting some seat heaters in a OE bench seat since I want to go leather but not fully sure on that.

People really should consider upgrading to the 3G if they are going to add anything aftermarket to their trucks that is electrical.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm not really up on how much current an aftermarket fuel injection system requires but I'm sure it needs stable power.

Gary has pointed out how marginal these electrical systems were even when new.
After decades of heat and oxidation it is hardly up to the task.
Then you want or expect more modern features?

I certainly see this in my work renovating houses.
Putting in a 400A service and a new breaker panel will solve for some things.
Like central air or a hot tub, but it's just the beginning if you expect modern lighting or more than one outlet in a room.

At least I've gotten to where I have a 3G and a relay/power distribution center under the hood, and taken a bunch of load off the dash harness and switches.

[85lebaront2]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I'm not really up on how much current an aftermarket fuel injection system requires but I'm sure it needs stable power.

Gary has pointed out how marginal these electrical systems were even when new.
After decades of heat and oxidation it is hardly up to the task.
Then you want or expect more modern features?

I certainly see this in my work renovating houses.
Putting in a 400A service and a new breaker panel will solve for some things.
Like central air or a hot tub, but it's just the beginning if you expect modern lighting or more than one outlet in a room.

At least I've gotten to where I have a 3G and a relay/power distribution center under the hood, and taken a bunch of load off the dash harness and switches.

Jim, that is why my konvertible has the biggest alternator Chrysler used on the 2.2/2.5L engines and a nice 1996 Stratus PDC (gets rid of the fusible links except the alternator one and the relay cluster on the left side behind the engine computer) I have a pair of fans from a Ford Contour, modified to be pushers, they take probably 40 amps themselves and have a low and high speed. FWIW, the 1994 Taurus 3.8L I had used a 50 amp fuse for the fan, and yes it moved some air.

House wiring, house has 200 amp service, which handles everything including the heat pump. Garage has a completely separate 200 amp service.

[doni10]

thanks for all the info guys!
will be be sure to grab myself one of those soft start regulators before i head home.
can i check something, the alternator i found is 7" ear to ear, is that the size thats compatible with the mounting holes in my current v-belt set-up?