3G alternator new or used?

[Gary Lewis]

At least you have a good plan.  Good luck!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Adam,

Do you have a 1G alternator (wires and cable bolted to the back, external regulator mounted on inner fender)

Or a 2G alternator (two 3 pin plastic plugs connecting it to the truck)?

If the latter, CLOSELY inspect the lower plug with two black/orange and one white/black wire.

This is the source of many charging problems and more than a few fires.

In fact, if you do have a 2G you should probably change it as a matter of course.
I got fed up with dead batteries and blown alternators and finally 'upgraded'. But like I said $10 & 10 minutes is quick and cheap compared to the alternatives.

[86-350-460-dually]

There has been quite a few modifications done to the truck previously, that I don't know what I have is stock or not. I believe my truck should have had the 2G stock, but I couldn't tell you if that's what I have or not. There is no external fan on the passenger fender.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hmmmm

I don't see plugs OR multiple wires on the back.    

Or even a proper spacer on the pivot bolt!

The 1G external regulator would look like a tin box about 5" square usually with four wires.

It may be some aftermarket one wire alternator and a bunch of barnyard engineering went into that.


Wish I had a better answer for you.

[86-350-460-dually]

Uh ohh.... That's kind of concerning haha. So just to clarify, it's definitely not a 2G?

[85lebaront2]

It looks like it might be a Government Motors alternator, they were popular for a 1 wire setup. Ford 1G used a remote regulator, 2G AKA flaming Ford used an integral regulator and two molded plugs, 3G uses a 6mm stud and a 1 and 3 wire pair of plugs. GM built a close to the same size that could be used as a 1 wire alternator.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm trying to look at these pics on my phone, but it doesn't look like it has a brush pac and regulator attached to the rear like a 2G.

The kinda rounded corners remind me of a 1G, but then you would have a separate regulator on the inside fender.

This leaves me thinking 'aftermarket one wire Chevy style alternator'
Unfortunately, these perform poorly because they have to be self exciting. ie, there is no key on source of power to wake it up.

Maybe Gary or one of the guys with a decent monitor can better identify it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks Bill!  

Now we need to find the dead diode that's killing the battery, and a solution to get his truck charging.

[85lebaront2]

Taurus 3.8L 3G and snag as much of the wiring harness as you can, it runs from the alternator across the top of the radiator then back to the underhood fuse box near the windshield on the driver's side. The plugs for the stator and "tickler" wire run in with the output wire.

He also needs to find a correct length and size bolt for the alternator, mine for the original setup is long gone.

[Gary Lewis]

You'se guys are doing great!   

If he's running a GM 1-wire wouldn't the easiest fix be a 3G?  We shouldn't assume that the shunt/ammeter has been bypassed, but hopefully it has.

Adam - Have you noticed the ammeter move, either positive or negative?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yep
3G.
Get the wiring *and* the fuse/holder assembly off the relay box on the driver's side.

Tap the adjuster ear 3/8"-16 NC.
Hammer the existing adjuster arm a little flatter so it lines up with the 3G.
Splice the lt. green/yellow exciter wire to key on power.
Loop the yellow to the output stud with a ring terminal.
Make the charge cable fit somehow, with copper lugs torched on.


Tell me if I missed something...

[Gary Lewis]

I think you have it all, Jim.  But, just in case here's the 3G page: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/3g-conversion.html

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, I looked at your instructions and even mentioned them earlier.

So... Swap the pulley, with shim.

Bill says get the right pivot bolt (and spacer) instead of the janky stud that's there.

I'm thinking may be better/cheaper for Adam to get a 3G retrofit regulator pigtail (eBay, 119851 under/around $10) than buy crimpers, terminal set and that pricey little stator plug.... which also fits a compressor clutch.
-you know the one-

Then he only needs to connect green to key on power.

[ArdWrknTrk]

BTW, not to be pedantic, I noticed your tutorial says 8.125" mounting, but it is 8.25" as shown in Ryan's pic.

[86-350-460-dually]

Holy smokes! Haha. Sounds like I have some work to do? I understand Gary's tutorial fairly well, the two things that I'm not understanding is the janky stud (what do you mean by that?) And can you explain what you mean by the fuse box connector thingy?  I'm not quite understanding that.

Also, Gary, you asked about my ammeter? I assume that's the D&G meter in the dash? No, mine does not work one bit.  Here's a pic of what I have, it's out of focus and I can get another if you need a clearer picture.

[ArdWrknTrk]

In your first picture the alternator is pivoting from a *stud*, with a nut and washer at the front.
That needs to be a long bolt. So you can pull it out and swap the alternator.

Also notice the free space behind the alternator pivot boss.
You can clearly see in the rust of the mounting bracket where there used to be a spacer sleeve that kept the alternator from shifting back on the bolt.

When you find a 3.8 liter Taurus you will take all the wiring -back to the power distribution center (box) on the driver's side.
The thick charge cable should connect to a fuse similar to what Gary shows.
This fuse *should be* in a small box (holder) attached to the front of the PDC. I'm not sure if all model years were set up this way, but I have taken the holder with the fuse and the cable leading into the box.
This saves having to buy an aftermarket holder like Gary's picture.

Yes, you have an ammeter.
Follow Steve's advice and eliminate the big coil of wire up inside the dashboard before you start a fire in the cab.

[86-350-460-dually]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Yes, you have an ammeter.
Follow Steve's advice and eliminate the big coil of wire up inside the dashboard before you start a fire in the cab.

I'm sorry, which one is Steve and I think I missed his suggestion about a coil of wire in the dash...?

[ArdWrknTrk]

This....

Steve83 wrote

The shunt doesn't really go to the ammeter - it goes to the battery & all the electrical loads.  The ammeter is ACROSS the shunt (it reads the voltage developed by current passing through the shunt's resistance, but displays that as an inferred amperage).  So regardless of the alternator type (1G, 2G, 3G, 4G, Leece-Neville...), it's a poor circuit design and should be converted ASAP to a low-resistance wire (shorter & without all the connectors) & a true voltmeter.  Most especially if you've swapped to a HO alt.

[86-350-460-dually]

Ah! Sorry, I did read that. Thanks.  I'll have to look into that.

[ArdWrknTrk]

And this.....

Steve83 wrote

I'm saying the alternator doesn't matter, period.  I advise everyone to re-wire the charge circuit like a stock 3G's for better performance, more safety, and more functionality - even with a stock 40A alt.

It's not a joke when you have a resistance wire glowing red hot up inside the dash where you can't get at it