1985 F150 with 300 inline 6 that needs a new carb. Problem is there are 2 stamped numbers on it. The bottom looks like 7598S which is a large bore and the top stamping looks like it says 7652S which is a small bore. How else can I determine what size carb I have with out a tag on it? It's a Carter YFA 1 barrel.
Larry Peyer
|
Administrator
|
The email you got said, and I quote, "You will then be taken to the New Members Start Here folder where we ask you to start a new thread/topic in that folder about yourself and your truck." You have come to the right folder, and I guess posting about your carb might be construed to be about your truck. But you said nothing about yourself.
So let's give you another chance. I'll respond about your carb and if you respond about yourself we are ok. Do you know if the carb is original to the truck? I've checked the master parts catalog and didn't find 7598 nor 7652, as a carb or anything else. Do you have emissions testing where you live? If not, do you really want to go back with the same carb? Some here have had very good success going with an earlier carb that was not jetted for emissions.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
I'm sorry but this is my only truck for two jobs as a single dad. Guess I did miss something but please feel free to delete my account because I missed a step. Have a blessed day.
Larry Peyer
|
Administrator
|
We are not going to delete your account. And I'm sure the guys here are quite willing to help you. But we need to know that you are going to be willing to play by the guidelines. And disregarding the directions you were given, twice, does not make us feel like you will.
But go back to my questions. Do you need to replace the carb with the same one to meet emissions? If not, there are better YF carbs that will bolt right on. On the other hand, why does it need to be replaced. Can it be rebuilt? We can probably help you with that as well.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
I applies here at 2:30 this afternoon and just now got an update for my phone with the e-mail about the guidelines--3 hours later. as stated earlier in the e-mail it's my only truck/vehicle for two jobs and I'm a single dad with 2 kids. Need something to pop off and right back on and then send out the other carb for a full rebuild. I work 6 days a week and it's my only transportation. Thank you anyways. Stay safe and watch out for each other.
Larry Peyer
|
Administrator
|
You haven't said if you have emissions testing in your area. If not I'd recommend a Carter YF carburetor for a 1970 F350. David/1986F150Six is running one of those on his truck and it runs very well. We can get you the specifics for that.
If you have emission testing then we need to find the right carb. I can do that by trying to determine the calibration code. But you'll have to tell me if your truck is an F150, 250, or 350. If it has an auto or manual trans. 2wd or 4wd. And if it was sold originally in California.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by lpeyer
Mr Peyer,
I'm sincerely apologetic that you've raised Gary's ire. It was I that added your membership, and I that sent you this email at 2:16 EST. Since I've just recently got back online, and us admins have had a little backstage discussion, I've decided that I've got to start sending the confirmation email before I actually make anyone a member (with the privilege to post) It has never been my intention to have members that have not seen the "rules" before they inadvertently post in the main forum. I hope you can accept this, and I hope you can find all the help you need here in Gary's Garagemahal. As a whole, I find this forum to be the most civil, friendly and knowledgeable place on the web to discuss '80-'86 Ford trucks.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by lpeyer
Quite a few of our members have used reproduction Carter carburetors on their 300's.
There are scores of them available on eBay $60-70. While you'll find them listed as fitting 1975-1982 (D5TZ-9510-AG) they fit most all applications. Just that these carbs don't require computer control and feedback. I would suggest getting one that includes new gaskets. These carbs come with an electric choke and have 43mm (1 11/16") bore. One thing I've noted is that they come with the internal passages flooded with oil to prevent corrosion in shipping and storage, so it's wise to thoroughly purge them before mounting. Forum member David is probably the best versed in retrofitting these carbs, and I will be asking him to check in on this thread.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Administrator
|
Larry - Please accept my apology as well. I've realized that the process for registering is different than I'd thought, and I can see how you could have easily missed our email with directions.
So, back to your original question of the size of your carb. I don't think it really matters if you are just wanting a replacement carb to get you back and forth to work while your carb is rebuilt. Basically any YF or YFA will work for an interim carb.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Larry, welcome to the forum. Im sorry there was some confusion, but hey that happens.
Im a dad of two also, but I aint single. Dont know how you do it man. I hope you have some help from other family members. This forum is THE best place to be for 80-86 trucks. The family here is growing, and the technical aspects are evolving. We all hope you stay. Take care.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker
1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed |
Welcome!
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
Administrator
|
Welcome!
Larry, what is wrong with the current carburetor? |
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by lpeyer
Larry, when you get some time, see if there is a Ford PN tag or possibly a rebuilder's tag on the carburetor. After that, if you would kindly describe any problems you are having with it.
One item to examine carefully would be the float bowl to throttle body joint as it is prone to getting loose and causing all sort of interesting problems.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
Administrator
|
Larry - Bill/85lebaront2 ran a carb and ignition shop for decades. He knows his way around carbs, for sure.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Edit this page |