1984 F-150 302 Windsor 2WD - "Old Red"

[Gary Lewis]

Well explained, Dave.

Yes, it easily could be the power valve since the accelerator pump appears to be working.  And, as Dave explained, that's the problem with earlier Holleys - a backfire usually blows the power valve.  There's a fix for their poor engineering in the form of a check valve that can be installed.

But a blown power valve will cause the engine to be terribly rich, and I'm not sure that fits your symptoms.  However, it is certainly worth a try.

[JMUBullnose]

Gary -

At this point I think I'm just hunting for answers on why the truck is stumbling at certain speeds, especially when accelerating up a hill or trying to accel to highway speed. Sometimes I have to come off the gas and then gently roll back on and it'll get thru the bucking. All the while I'm gritting my teeth worrying I'm going to break something even more expensive!

Now that I have the choke back to where it was previously- the truck is definitely running rich.

I'm going to also use this walk thru to set the choke, idle, etc:
FMC400 Writeup

Dave - Not sure on the one stage v. two stage PV. I'll have to figure out how to rig up a vacuum gauge to do what you've described. That's a good methodology - I should really just get myself a gauge!

[FuzzFace2]

You know I have never played with a 2 stage PV I just know they open a little at 1 setting and then the rest at the other setting.

To tell the truth I would just go with the 1 stage PV and tune for it.
Cant help on how to run the hose / gauge that's up to you LOL

But you said something about "stumbling at certain speeds, especially when accelerating up a hill or trying to accel to highway speed".
Do you have the vacuum advance hooked up to your dist.?
As a test remove and plug the hose and take for a test drive to see if it happens.
Also try with the gas cap removed.
Dave ----

[JMUBullnose]

I think I may have a 2 stage PV - that sucker sticks out a fair bit on the underside.

I'll go back out and plug the hose going to the vacuum advance after I get some more work done here at the house.

I just got done attempting to reset the choke pull off and fast idle. How the heck do you guys actually see where the cam is hitting the set screw with the freaking Carb installed on the block? Woof!  I think it's pretty close to where it's supposed to be.

Overall the carb is starting to leak a bit I think (noticed some bubbles at the blue circle while truck was running). I see a rebuild coming in August (when I'll ostensibly have some time). I also found that the bottom retaining screw for the choke cap does not tighten at all. Someone must have stripped the hole (red circle).



I also found that the hose going to the PV was not fully snugged up on the nipple so I pushed that on better.  

After starting the truck up (which it did and ran well), I drove it around a bit. I'm back to feeling like there's a misfire on the driver side as I feel it when accelerating.

Talk about peeling back an onion! Everytime I think I'm a step closer...oy!

[1986F150Six]

JMUBullnose wrote

Talk about peeling back an onion! Everytime I think I'm a step closer...oy!

Yes, but don't the onion rings taste good!

[JMUBullnose]

Lemme guess...you're here all week and don't forget to tip your waitress?

And yes - they do. I just don't like how frequently I'm eating them!

[Gary Lewis]

You are lucky if you just get onion rings.  Some trucks give you Blooming Onions, and that's way too much cholesterol.  

[JMUBullnose]

Hahahaha - thanks Gary. I appreciate it - just frustrated at moment.

[JMUBullnose]

Well, got the plugs and wires swapped out today. Yay! One plugs were decently fouled (Bosch Platinums). Discovered that the second plug in on driver side was was partially backed out/loose (cylinder 6?). Might've been part of issues, but I'm still going to rebuild care next month.

The #4 & #8 cylinders are a bit of a pain to get out aren't they? I ended up going under the truck for #8. #4 was a pain to get out and a pain to get new one in. Finally get it threaded nicely annnnddd over tightened and cracked the ceramic! Luckily auto store 10 min away and they had the plug in stock. Sheesh! Fired up nicely and held idle quite well. Ran out of time for a test drive, tomorrow!

[JMUBullnose]

Forgot to ask, I've been finding water on the top of the air handler, is there a gasket along good I can replace?
0804181447-1.jpg

[Gary Lewis]

Oh, air cleaner.  Got it.  Yes, the cowl seal, seen at the very top of the pic on the right, is bad.  I use a garage door weather strip there, and have the instructions somewhere if you want.

And, by the way, your pic is too big.  I chose "Big" from the menu and then added width="100%" to the code that it inserted.

[JMUBullnose]

Yeah I keep getting the same wrong, I know! Excellent on the seal, thanks Gary, I'll dig around for the how to!

On Sat, Aug 4, 2018, 8:32 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Oh, air cleaner.  Got it.  Yes, the cowl seal, seen at the very top of the pic on the right, is bad.  I use a garage door weather strip there, and have the instructions somewhere if you want.

---

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[Gary Lewis]

I'm looking for it.  May be over on FTE, but I'll find it......  

[Gary Lewis]

Cowl Seal: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/cowl-seal.html

[JMUBullnose]

Awesome write up Gary! Thanks. I'll swing by Lowe's on my way home tonight and get the seal and adhesive! Hopefully install this evening once it's cooled off a bit outside.

[Gary Lewis]

Glad it helps.  Make sure you tell us how it goes.  And if there are upgrades needed in the how-to then I can easily do that.

[JMUBullnose]

Gary - hoping to tackle the cowl this afternoon after work.

I was looking through the lubrication specifications section for motor oil types. What I can't seem to get a quick sense on is the volume and best type of motor oil for the 302. I plan on changing the oil soon (next week or so) - anyone have some insight on best viscosity/weight and typical volume?

And yeah - I figure this is in the manual...BUT i'm at work and the little'uns and other projects keep me away from perusing! ;)

[Rembrant]

JMUBullnose wrote

I was looking through the lubrication specifications section for motor oil types. What I can't seem to get a quick sense on is the volume and best type of motor oil for the 302. I plan on changing the oil soon (next week or so) - anyone have some insight on best viscosity/weight and typical volume?

My 1984 302 took 6 quarts with oil and filter change. I am currently running Valvoline VR1 10w30, and Motorcraft filter...whatever p/n it is, F1-A or something like that.. I'm one of those guys that can get really carried away reading about (and thinking about) what oils to use, but I've been trying not to...lol. The guy that built my engine recommends the VR1 oil for flat tappet applications, and the local speed shop also recommended it. That was enough for me.

https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/vr1-racing-oil

I'm planning to try Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 oil next time, but for a stock engine I'd think 10w30 would be fine.

The other more experienced guys on here may have better suggestions than I.

[JMUBullnose]

Thanks for the input!

I'm also considering dropping the pan, redoing gasket, oil pickup tube etc - anyone ever done that from under the truck? Or am I just asking for a lot of creative cursing?  Reason for looking into doing that? The AOD transmission is just covered in a sheen of oil (I need to take a before/after photo when I go to degrease)

[Rembrant]

JMUBullnose wrote

I'm also considering dropping the pan, redoing gasket, oil pickup tube etc - anyone ever done that from under the truck? Or am I just asking for a lot of creative cursing?  Reason for looking into doing that? The AOD transmission is just covered in a sheen of oil (I need to take a before/after photo when I go to degrease)

Man, I feel your pain. My 84 302 was leaking everywhere when I first dragged it home. Oil pan, valve covers, etc. I haven't removed a 302 oil pan in the truck, but it's certainly possible, because I've read a lot of threads where guys have had to change the old 2pc rear main seals in the truck, and for those the pan has to be removed. The other guys on here can advise you better on this topic. (Edit: I assume the engine has to be lifted, at least a little bit, but that isn't a big on these trucks).

The only input I have on the topic is gasket selection. I did away with the old 4pc cork/rubber oil pan gaskets, and installed a 1pc Fel-Pro Perma-Dry Plus p/n OS13260T. The down side is that it costs 4x as much as the traditional 4pc gasket set-up, but it's one of those things that was worth the extra cost to me. There are likely cheaper 1pc options available...just look up the oil pan gasket for a newer model truck...maybe 1992 or there abouts...not sure when they actually switched over to the 1pc rubber gasket.