1984 F-150 302 Windsor 2WD - "Old Red"

[Rembrant]

JMUBullnose wrote

I would love to add a tachometer to this truck - how hard is it to get the different printed circuit and a tach?

No problem. I added one to mine last fall. If you buy a whole cluster, then you get the tach and the printed circuit with it. I bought a whole cluster, I think it was $75 USD. Rather than swapping the tach into mine, I simply swapped my speedo into the new cluster. Bam, done. Then follow Gary's awesome write-ups on painting the gauge needles, and you're showroom shiny.

Ron/Reamer has a cluster for sale on the main page just listed this morning.

[Ford F834]

JMUBullnose wrote

I would love to add a tachometer to this truck - how hard is it to get the different printed circuit and a tach?

Well it helps if you know of some knuckle head that pulls all of them that he finds at the junkyard and hoards them for no particular reason

[Rembrant]

Ford F834 wrote

Well it helps if you know of some knuckle head that pulls all of them that he finds at the junkyard and hoards them for no particular reason

LOL.

[JMUBullnose]

Hmmm...wonder if that guy may or may not be able to help me...

[ctubutis]

Ford F834 wrote

Well it helps if you know of some knuckle head that pulls all of them that he finds at the junkyard and hoards them for no particular reason

Oh, man..... I used to do that kind of stuff, you wouldn't believe the amount of junk/stuff (mostly wiring) I threw away last summer before finishing my garage.... sheesh.
But I kept a lot, too, because I still have a bed + cab waiting to be installed on my own truck.
And 3 Taurii in various states of disrepair.

I went to my local JY just on a whim last weekend, I don't think I saw *even one* gen7 truck out there, these things are getting harder to find parts for.

[Ford F834]

I have indeed accumulated a lot of junk. More than I need. But it is good junk, and I do find new homes for a lot of it. I dread the day when the parts supply dries up at the junkyard. I now for many that is already a reality. That is partly why I hoard, at least until my trucks are where I want them. I just know at some point I will thank myself when I have some critical spares to fall back on when bullnose parts become unobtanium.

[JMUBullnose]

I found this while doing some research on rebuilding the trans myself. So many little parts, from that aspect a bit daunting! But I think I'm adding it to my list of winter projects: Carb rebuild, transmission rebuild....

Anyhow, here's what I found:

FORD AOD Automatic Overdrive wrote

ROD TYPE-TV ADJUSTMENT

1. Remove the air cleaner. Have someone floor the gas pedal from inside the car while you bend the THROTTLE cable bracket until the butterfly arm bottoms solidly on it's stop.
2. Turn the adjustment screw IN until 13 threads are sticking out the front of the adjuster arm. (Approx. 7/16")
3. Start the engine with the AIR OFF and leave it OFF.
4. While the engine is idling, loosen the adjustment bolt on the arm on the side of the transmission with a 13mm socket one full turn. Push the arm up (towards the top of the vehicle) and gently tighten the bolt.
5. Now go back to the top adjustment and back off 13 turns.
6. Now ROAD TEST. Place the selector in the '3' position and cruise at 45 mph. Floor the throttle, you will have no 3-2 kickdown. Turn the adjuster screw in exactly one turn at a time until you have kickdown at 45 mph. Then, turn the screw in 3 more turns. You will be in the middle of the TV adjustment.
7. Now ROAD TEST for shift feel and timing. You can adjust in or out up to 2 turns to improve shift quality.
8. Replace the air cleaner.

I got it from here: Ford AOD Transmission

Also whats the difference between the AOD and the E4OD? Same thing, just different nomenclature?

[Gary Lewis]

That's a good find.

As for the differences, the E4OD is based on the C6 and is a MUCH bigger transmission than the AOD.  It stands for Electronic 4 (speed) Over Drive.  Completely different transmission than the AOD.  Where the biggest engine the AOD was put behind was the 302/5.0L, the E4OD was used behind the 460's, the diesels, and the V10's.  Have a friend with one in a motorhome behind a V10.

[JMUBullnose]

Gary -

I edited the post to include the link to the Ford AOD Transmission page I found.

Here it is again: http://www.txchange.com/aodadj.htm

Interesting on the E4OD - I was poking around to see how much a rebuilt transmission would cost and was intrigued by these guys: Street Smart Transmissions. Got a quote from them for a drop shipped transmission and they were quoting me an E4OD not the AOD.  (Also quoted for $1800)

[Gary Lewis]

LOL!  That explains why I missed the link.  I posted and asked where you found that, and as soon as the post showed up I saw the link.  So I edited the question out of my post.  Dueling edits!

$1800 isn't bad for an E4OD.  However, I didn't read enough of their advert to see what all they do to it in the rebuild.  I spent $2400 on the one for Dad's truck, but then it has a lot of significant upgrades that easily would have added up to the $600 difference - if not more.

[JMUBullnose]

They say that they do the following in the email quote I received:

-Remanufactured pump, with new line bore bushings to eliminate leaks and provide superior flow and durability.
-Remanufactured valve body, with complete system correction and recalibration kit, improves pressure control and shift quality.
-Remanufactured and improved torque converter tested for leaks, concentricity, and balance. Upgrades exceed OE requirements and eliminate the possibilities of front seal leaks, premature bushing wear, and vibration.
-All new, bushings installed in key locations to improve internal fluid flow control and fluid pressures.
-Complete system correction and recalibration kit installed to address several OE flaws. Modifications include updates to servos, the PR system, and valve body accumulators.
-Heavy-duty recalibration kit installed to reduce slippage and increase durability.
-Complete road simulation using a dynamometer testing program called C.A.R.S. (Computer Aided Road Simulation). Every transmission is cold and hot tested before shipment.

Gary - what do you think about the tuning I posted above? I'm still having some weird performance issues on the lower band...maybe it's fuel/ignition, maybe its the transmission. One I did notice - shifting out of OD did nothing to alleviate the studdering/shuddering/slamming that was sometimes occurring as I tried to accelerate away from a stop light at a medium rate (eg - not gentle cruise/roll out and not flooring it).  

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know enough about the AOD to comment about those procedures.  But it seems like a reputable place, so they are probably good.

However, if you are having the problem both in OD and out of OD then it may not be the transmission.  Perhaps it is engine related?  Ignition can be on and off, causing serious bucking.  Is it worse when the engine is hot or cold?  Does it happen under heavy throttle as well as medium throttle?  In other words, is it throttle-related?

[JMUBullnose]

Gary - Great questions. I definitely notice the issues once the engine is hot. Leading me to start thinking it's fuel or ignition related. I've got plugs and wires sitting here in the shop and a new fuel filter on the way. I think that's my first stop on this fun time. But I'm also intrigued by the adjustment I found on the transmission site.

On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 8:23 AM, Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

I don't know enough about the AOD to comment about those procedures.  But it seems like a reputable place, so they are probably good.

However, if you are having the problem both in OD and out of OD then it may not be the transmission.  Perhaps it is engine related?  Ignition can be on and off, causing serious bucking.  Is it worse when the engine is hot or cold?  Does it happen under heavy throttle as well as medium throttle?  In other words, is it throttle-related?

---

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NAML

[85lebaront2]

Ok, first item, the AOD acts like a manual transmission in 3rd and somewhat like one in 4th. In 3rd there is a shaft in the input that goes into a damper spring cushion in the front of the torque converter, this directly connected to the engine. This shaft goes through the hollow turbine shaft and into the direct clutch. This directly connects the crankshaft to the output shaft, just like 3rd in an SROD manual transmission. As a result there is no "cushioning" of engine irregularities just like with a manual transmission.

In 4th, the direct clutch stays on, but the forward clutch (the one that drives a C4 or C6 and even an E4OD in the forward gears) is released and the OD band (which looks like it should be 2nd gear) holds the drum making the gear set overdrive the output shaft at I think 0.7:1. It is a fairly compact transmission as it was designed to roughly fit where a C4 or FMX went. It was offered in cars behind the 351W.

I will see if I can find some power flow diagrams and post them.

[JMUBullnose]

Alright - I think I understand what you're saying. That's a pretty good description!

Any thoughts on the adjustment parameters that website suggested?

[85lebaront2]

I never did them that way, but the 45 mph kickdown test sounds about right. Biggest thing is too many turns in and it will "hunt" between 3 and 4, too far out and it will shift early, but slip and burn up. FWIW, properly adjusted the 2-3 shift will be a little firm at part throttle since you go into a direct mechanical connection from engine to driveshaft.

Those of us old enough to have worked on and maybe even owned a GM Roto-Hydramatic AKA Slim Jim know the feeling, only on those it was the 1-2 shift where it went straight mechanical connection albeit through the gearset.

[JMUBullnose]

Gary Lewis wrote

I don't know enough about the AOD to comment about those procedures.  But it seems like a reputable place, so they are probably good.

However, if you are having the problem both in OD and out of OD then it may not be the transmission.  Perhaps it is engine related?  Ignition can be on and off, causing serious bucking.  Is it worse when the engine is hot or cold?  Does it happen under heavy throttle as well as medium throttle?  In other words, is it throttle-related?

Gary - Got my shiny new fuel filter, hoping to replace it and the plugs/wires this weekend. (Last weekend was consumed by habitat for humanity type work)

Random question on the fuel filter (to the larger hivemind as well!) - would you put any blue threadlocker or teflon tape equivalent on the threads? Don't want it working it's way off while the vehicle is in operation!

Greg

[Gary Lewis]

If this is the filter that screws into the carb then you could use some PTFE paste on the threads.  But keep it at least one turn back of the leading edge of the threads so it can't get into the fuel system.  However, it isn't necessary as you are dealing with tapered pipe threads that do a good job of both sealing and locking.

[JMUBullnose]

Ahh - good to know - I didn't know if they had tapered fittings or not!  Hopefully I can tackle some of this today.

On Mon, Apr 30, 2018 at 4:18 PM, Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

If this is the filter that screws into the carb then you could use some PTFE paste on the threads.  But keep it at least one turn back of the leading edge of the threads so it can't get into the fuel system.  However, it isn't necessary as you are dealing with tapered pipe threads that do a good job of both sealing and locking.

---

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NAML

[JMUBullnose]

Well - back to report that I got the fuel filter swapped out. Plugs and wires not done yet but while I was in the engine bay I took a moment to check all my spark plug wires and found 2 that were loose (pulled off extremely easily). I reseated those and felt them 'click' on - so now all is secure there.

I did have a bit of time getting the fitting from the fuel line not to leak once snugged into the fuel filter. Turned out to be an alignment issue so the flared end of the fuel line was not seating properly where it meets the fuel filter. After I fixed that alignment and tightened back down - no more leak! I haven't driven it around the neighborhood yet to see if it shakes loose or backs off and starts leaking but I will in the next day or two.  

Once I had the fuel leak solved, I left the engine idling while observing/listening. I accidentally pushed down on the linkage between the choke housing/pulldown housing/pull down lever. Engine died immediately. Nothing seemed to have come off - everything was still connected. Restarting the engine proved to be a pain - it's like the choke didn't set the last time and it would not hold idle. I had to feather the throttle each time to get the truck to start and it would only hold idle for a couple minutes before just stopping, no die down in the engine like it was getting starved, just all of a sudden - stop.  

I was running out of time for the day so I had to button it back together and haven't been able to go back out to see if it just needed some time rest or what.  Thoughts on where to trouble shoot next?

I also shot some video of the truck idling if anyone wants to take a gander - I'll figure out where to host it and share it out if interested.