1982 F250 4x4 351W auto

[Wagoneermaster]

Finally, I bought the project truck. My plan is to work on the truck in this order: 1. engine running + drive forward/reverse + some electric 2. body work (welding floor pans) 3. brakes + all other electric issues 4. get Dutch license on the truck. I started out with the engine. It is a 351W with a Edelbrock performance intake and a Holley 1850-4 4 barrel carburator. The ignition was changed to a GM style HEI. I couldn't start the engine by turning the ignition key. Also the ignition key felt really sticky and wouldn't jump back to run from the start position. So first, I took apart half of the dash and got the ignition switch out (located down on the steering column). Turned out that there is a ton of dust inside the car, behind the dash panels and also inside the ignition switch. It turned out that the dust made the lever stick on the bottom side of the ignition switch, where it is supposed to slide freely. I checked the engine for free movement and then I tried the starter. Besides the very loud squeaking noise, the engine cranked but didn't run. I through in some gas through the top of the carb and tried again. Immediately the engine ran for a few seconds after starting. That was promising. Last week I took the carb off and ordered a rebuild kit for it. When taking the carb apart, it was immediately clear that it has been sitting in the truck for a very long time, without running. The secondary valves were stuck close. I really had difficulty getting it open. I have rebuild the carb and next week, I will place it on the engine again and hopefully it will run after. To be continued....

[Gary Lewis]

That will be a great project to work on.  I hope the carb rebuild does the trick.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

An extended cab american pickup will be an unusual sight on the road in the Netherlands.

I see it has the typical rusted out cab corner where foam was sprayed in from the factory.

Seems solid enough from the photos. You have yourself a good project.

Welcome to the forum.  . Hope we can be helpful if questions arise with it.

[Wagoneermaster]

Full size pickups aren't common in the Netherlands. Like most towns/ cities, they are a bit oversized and won't fit easily in parking spots at the shopping areas . Newer trucks like F150s and RAMs can be found outside the larger city areas, but nut that much. And older trucks are pretty rare. Therefor parts might be an issue. But working on this truck is a nice way of spending time. Takes me away of the stressful and very busy living. For sure I will ask you guys for advise. The rear left hand brake drum has a problem. It wouldn't come off.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The drum, or the wheel?
Dana axles of this era use left threaded lugs and studs on the left side rear.

And Dana floating axles need to be removed before the brake drum will come off.

[Gsmblue]

It is always fun to see these trucks in Europe, I am from London originally - now in the USA.

I work on these old trucks for fun and relaxation, it sounds like you do the same.

Looking forward to see you breathe new life into this truck, what a fun project.

[Wagoneermaster]

I wanted to get the drum off. On the right hand side it was very easy: Get the wheel off (I snapped a stud off though) and encouraged the drum was a couple of blows with a hammer. Nothing leaking, all good except the shoe facing aft is a bit thin. But the left hand side turned out to be a tough cookie. I wasn't able to get the drum off. And yes, I get relaxed working on the truck

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hmmmm 🤔

Can you identify which axle your truck has?

It could be that the shoes in the left drum have worn a deep groove.
Try reaching the adjuster through the plug in the backing plate and loosening it all the way.
It might be that the drum is corroded right to the hub, but if that's the case you have nothing to lose beating on it with a hammer.

[Wagoneermaster]

Hi Jim, I haven't checked the rusty label on the rear diff casing yet, but on the certification label it shows axle type 37. That should be a non-locking Dana 60/61 with a 3.54 gear ratio. I tried to pry off the drum, but no movement whatsoever. If it would be a groove on the drum, I would expect the drum to move a little bit (as far as the retainer springs/clips would allow, that hold the shoes in place). But nothing . I will also try loosening the adjuster and give it another go. But probably you are right and is the drum corroded to the hub. I will keep you posted! The picture is from the right hand side of the truck. That one came off easily.

[mat in tn]

is that a "jack stand" made out of rebar?

[Wagoneermaster]

Not sure. But as long as I can remember, I have these jack stands. They don't seem to be self made.

[Wagoneermaster]

Last week, I was able to rebuild the carb and started the engine with a fuel bypass (12V electric fuel pump and a bottle of fuel). I have also removed the rubber fuel hoses from the fuel tank to the mechanical fuel pump on the engine. Replaced them with new rubber fuel hoses and added a filter. Then I put about 30 litres of fuel in the tank (just under 10 gallons) and used a vacuum sucker to do an initial flush of the fuel system. Some dirt and old fuel came out. Reconnected the mechanical fuel pump and attached a hose to a jar. Started the engine and also the pump seemed to be working. Afterwards, a conected the fuel pump to the carb and installed another filter in between. Started the engine and that is working now . Then I tried switching the transmission into gear. No reaction. I waited a while untill the engine warmed up completly and checked for the tranny fluid level. Dry dipstick. I have topped up the transmission with almost 1 gallon of fluid untill the correct level. Now comes the next challange: Reverse is working okay, but none of the forward gears. The kick down linkage is not connected yet, but I don't think that would be the problem. I also replaced the rubber vacuum hose to the modulator, but no luck. Searching the net learned me that it seems to be one of the common faults of the C6: dried out valve seals. I don't know the history of the truck, so I also don't know if this has been a problem or not in the past. I only know that I found a lot of incorrect installed cabling and a few issues with this Holley 1850 carb in combination with the trottle cable and kick down linkage. I still have a lot to do on the truck so I am looking for a quick fix in the forward gear area. I read the C6 issue in low temperatures and the foam additive to soften the seals to fix it. What other things should I be looking at and checking? BTW also the power steering was almost empty, fluid wise. I guess that is also an indication that the truck has been standing unused for a while...

[Gary Lewis]

Well, you are making progress!  Yes, you'll always find a number of unexpected problems as you go, but that's what I call "peeling the onion".  Peel and cry, peel and cry, but soon you'll have enough to have an onion ring fry-up.  

On the transmission, I'd add a can of something like Seafoam for transmissions.  And after shifting into reverse and then forward several times I'd then see if the level is down again as the torque converter might have been dry and took some of what you added.

Also, see if the vacuum modulator is bad.  They can develop a leak and that will suck transmission fluid into the engine.  You can check that by trying to pull a vacuum on the modulator.  Or pull the engine end of the hose to the modulator to see if it is dry.

And if you still can't get it to go into forward gears drive it as much as you can and as fast as you dare in reverse.  I'm told that doing so will move fluid through passages rapidly and that may clean out some gunk.  And you have to get the additive, like Seafoam, to move around in the system to do its job.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed.  

[Wagoneermaster]

Hi Gary, I will remember the onion story .
I have ordered some tranny additive today. To be continued...

[Wagoneermaster]

Again a few steps back. The engine refused to start again. Some backfire events. I decided to inspect the carb. After removing the carb, I discovered that I made a huge mistake. I had used the incorrect gasket between the carb base and the carburator spacer on the intake manifold. I picked the correct gasket from the rebuild kit that would fit the carb base perfectly, but I didn't think about it anymore when I droped the carb with gasket onto the spaver
 
 

Part of the centre of the gasket was missing. I removed the spark plugs and did a compression test on all cylinders. Two of them didn't have any compression. Hopefully I can get the pieces of gasket out if I remove the intake manifold

[Gary Lewis]

Yes,

I suspect the debris is holding the valves open and that you can get it out by pulling the intake.  But that is a huge pain.  So sorry!

[mat in tn]

I understand the explanation, but I don't know why you are showing two types of Holley gaskets. are you using a single plane intake or an open center spacer?

[Wagoneermaster]

It's an open center spacer. But the problem got worse: I have taken the intake manifold away and I discovered this:

Two pushrods were bent. So more work to do, but very little time at the moment

[Gsmblue]

Oh wow… i hope nothing else is damaged.

[mat in tn]

I cannot really see well but the lifter looks worth scrutiny. if the lifter is galled or stuck that would explain the bent pushrod and very likely the valve too. I fear the head is coming off next. it certainly would in my shop.