1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Jonathan]

Thank you Mat for the detailed steps to remove the steering column. I will print it out and follow it. I will also use your guide in conjunction with the other guide that Gary mentioned to make sure I don't miss anything. Thank you both for your help!

mat in tn wrote

I can help on the removal. first of all, you took some good pics so keep them handy and maybe take a few more. the "boot" that you are referring to is actually an egg-shaped plate which has a rubber layer molded onto it. the assembly is what you are looking at. it is held in place to the column by a clamp on the inside part. it takes a 1/2(13mm) . but to get to it you certainly need to remove the whole column.
step one. remove battery connections
disconnect steering sector under hood
disconnect shift down rod from column
remove access panel under column at the dash
remove plastic column cover between dash and shifter arm being very careful to open it up enough to clear all internals.
remove the transmission selector indicator cable. 5/16 screw and then lift the cable off the stud and un clip it from the small white plastic anchor. secure it out of the way .IT IS FRAGILE!!!!!!
remove two bolts holding column to dash brace
disconnect steering column electric connections both from the crescent shape connector and the main from the ignition switch
then remove the five 3/8 hex screws holding the boot/plate to the fire wall and walk the column out and carry it to a bench (many of us consider the tailgate sufficient)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jonathan - Welcome, happy to help.  As for instructions, Matt's should be what you need.  But if you want more go to the Instructions tab at Documentation/Interior, Steering Columns & Wheels.  There you will find both the section from the factory service manual as well as a document that Scott wrote up on the column itself.

Matt - Thanks!

[Jonathan]

I painted the vacuum brake booster. I over did the sealant a little bit which made more work for me. The paint job did not come out as nice as I was hoping for but it is good enough. It should help prevent it from rusting. The paint went on too dry I think so it is a little bumpy or textured. I also purchased a bike repair stand from the grocery store to assist with painting. I used dual hangers so I can flip and paint both sides during the same session.

[Gary Lewis]

Looks great, Jonathan.  

[grumpin]

^ x2!

[Jonathan]

Thanks Gary and Dane. Sadly the gasket pattern for the vacuum booster has to be designed again. Somehow the file got deleted.  It's too bad too because it took a while to get it right. All I have is pictures I took of the gasket left. I can't find the green test cut either. But now I think about it I wonder if I can just use the body of the vacuum booster to seal the large opening if it covers the hole enough. Maybe I can just put sealant around it to prevent air from making it inside the cab.

Gary Lewis wrote

Looks great, Jonathan.  

[Gary Lewis]

I'll bet you can make it work.

Maybe we need to set up a place to store gasket files on here.  That way if someone gets a gasket designed we could all use it.

[Jonathan]

That would be a great idea to have gasket file section. Just they would need access to a cutting machine or print it out and use it as a template to hand cut.

Gary Lewis wrote

I'll bet you can make it work.

Maybe we need to set up a place to store gasket files on here.  That way if someone gets a gasket designed we could all use it.

[Jonathan]

I made a little progress this weekend on the steering column removal. Due to limited time I couldn't complete this part of the project yet but I will outline the steps I completed thus far.

Step 1: Remove transmission shift linkage.

Now this part was a pain. The rod is inserted in very tight. I tried to remove the rod without damaging it or anything else but I still nicked it up. The following day I did find some other tools that was in my trunk that I took to the salvage yard that could of worked better then the lock ring pliers and a claw hammer. There is a special tool I found for this online which I will include the picture of below. I kept tension on the rod with a bungee cord and just kept prying until it popped. Now I think I should find a new bushing. Any recommendations for the bushing replacement? Does Dorman make one?

Step 2: Remove the steering shaft linkage fastener.

This part was easy. Just one 16mm bolt removed and the clip comes off. I scribed the shaft for future reference.

Step 3: Remove the steering wheel.

Now this step is probably not needed to remove the column but I need to take the wheel off anyway so now is a good time while it is secure and not moving. My old Craftsman puller did not have the right threads it turned out and the beveled angle on the tool did not help because it was too wide which caused the bolts to bend. After I removed the steering wheel I figured out the right threads and repaired the damage I caused by using a M8 1.25 bolt in a 5/16 24 fine thread. I purchased a new kit from Harbor Freight that has the correct bolt 5/16 24 fine thread and not spaced as far apart and with no bevel that seems to work better. I will take this to the salvage yard with me so I won't damage the replacement steering wheel. I also purchased bolts from Home Depot to replace the bolts I damaged in the old kit. In the picture below I circled where the correct bolts are in the Harbor Freight kit that is $16.99 at the time of this post. Now the Harbor Freight kit is not centered perfectly over the center of the steering wheel but I feel it will make enough contact with the bolt to pull the wheel off.

[mat in tn]

I generally use a pr of Channellock's that are marketed as "bigazz pliers". methods learned at the junkyard!

[Gary Lewis]

Good pics, Jonathan.  And a good tip on the removal of the steering wheel.  I recently had to repair the threads on Big Blue's wheel because someone used the wrong bolt.

On the bushing, heat is what lets you remove it easily.  I fought with one for hours until someone suggested heat and then I had it off so easily.  But heat isn't easily had in the salvage, and some won't let you for fear of fire.  So in that case you'll have to lube them and pry them off as you did.

[Jonathan]

I broke down and ordered the special tool on eBay to remove the shift links easier. I figure it will be worth it when I am laying in mud at the salvage yard. The last steering column shift link I removed at the salvage yard was a lot easier then my own truck but I think I need to pull another steering column which I will discuss in the next post. So I ordered the tool to save time and energy.

Gary Lewis wrote

Good pics, Jonathan.  And a good tip on the removal of the steering wheel.  I recently had to repair the threads on Big Blue's wheel because someone used the wrong bolt.

On the bushing, heat is what lets you remove it easily.  I fought with one for hours until someone suggested heat and then I had it off so easily.  But heat isn't easily had in the salvage, and some won't let you for fear of fire.  So in that case you'll have to lube them and pry them off as you did.

[Jonathan]

So I picked up an upgrade steering column with tilt at the salvage yard. I am going to rebuild it and replace worn parts. I never drove my truck yet so I don't know how much a difference it will make but I figure it can't hurt. The shift bowl is cracked on the one I picked up. Is this a common issue? Will I be better off getting a new old stock shift bowl or keep trying to find a good one at the salvage yard? Also looking for part number confirmation. Is it E0TZ-7228-C? Also the upper part of the column has a strange depression in it that you can see in the picture where I am pointing at the crack (bad casting maybe?). Not sure if it was like that when it was new too or not. If solid I was thinking about using some body putty and paint it. Also the piece on the bottom is cracked too but it looks the same as the one on my original steering column so I can swap it out. Stinks that I already purchased a turn signal switch for my non tilt column that I won't be able to use now.

[Jonathan]

I should mention that the steering column I am trying to find a bowl for came out of a 1986 F-150.

[Gary Lewis]

From our page at Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns & Wheels, the illustration below you can see base part number 7228.  That's the one you mean, correct?



If so, then you would normally turn to the tab on that page called Part Numbers, but I didn't have that information on that tab.  I'll put it there.  However, here 'tis for now.

And I don't see E0TZ 7228-C as one of the part numbers.  However, in the "tilt" description there's an E0TA, so there was an E0TZ, but I don't know that it is 7228-C.  So I'd say you want E2TZ 7228-C.

[Jonathan]

Thank you for your help Gary. That is the part I need. Do you think this one on eBay will work? The part number is the E0TZ. Is this a common failure point where it cracked? Is it worth to spend extra for a new one while I can? If I find one at the salvage yard not cracked is it likely to crack in the same spot?

[Gary Lewis]

There's no way for me to tell if E0TZ 7228-C is the right one from the master parts catalog because it just doesn't show in the one I have on this computer.  And it probably doesn't show in the 1982 version I have on microfiche since the new number was E2TZ, and that obviously replaced whatever the E0TZ # was.

But, I do have a cross reference from ID # to part number so should be able to cross that E0TA-CWA or CWB in the Description field to a part number.  Let me see...

Yep!  The 1980 cross-ref says that E0TA-CWA and CWB both cross to E0TZ 7228-C!  

[Jonathan]

You are really bringing back some memories when you mention microfiche. I haven't used that for years. When I was a kid I thought it was the coolest thing to look up information in the library on microfiche.

Thanks for cross referencing the part for me Gary. I feel more confident to order it now. Hopefully the salvage yard may have one in good condition also.

Gary Lewis wrote

There's no way for me to tell if E0TZ 7228-C is the right one from the master parts catalog because it just doesn't show in the one I have on this computer.  And it probably doesn't show in the 1982 version I have on microfiche since the new number was E2TZ, and that obviously replaced whatever the E0TZ # was.

But, I do have a cross reference from ID # to part number so should be able to cross that E0TA-CWA or CWB in the Description field to a part number.  Let me see...

Yep!  The 1980 cross-ref says that E0TA-CWA and CWB both cross to E0TZ 7228-C!  

[Gary Lewis]

Ford apparently issued the MPC in both microfiche and paper format.  A couple of people have gotten a license to digitize the 1994 version of the 1980 - 89 MPC, and they apparently used the exact same copy as it has the same creases - and same page omissions.

Bill/Numberdummy gave me a couple of copies of the MPC on microfiche, an '82 and an '86.  And he and Chris/Ctubutis gave me two microfiche viewers, which sit on top of my powder coating booth at about the 8' level.  So when I need to view one of the microfiche catalogs I have to drag out the ladder and "climb the microfiche tower".

Also, Bill gave me three cross-references - an '80, an '85, and a '90.  It was the '80 version that nailed the part number for you tonight.

So while I have one of the best libraries in the world on Bullnose trucks, I owe a lot of that to Bill and Chris.

[mat in tn]

I have yet to see that piece crack on any that I have worked on so let's hope it is a rarity. but you found one on ebay and I would guess it's far more than the column you bought. I would keep scouring for another column. I just rebuilt the exact same column for my current build, and I will advise as best as I can. the plastic bearing on the lower end is cracked i see but that is a part that is now available as an upgraded metal version. I don't remember exactly where right now but maybe another will have a fresher memory.

[Gary Lewis]

I agree that I've not seen that item crack on any of the columns I've seen.  But I don't know about an upgraded one.  Maybe that's the E2TZ vs E0TZ?