wobbly window crank

[scbill]

Is there a fix for this, or do I need to replace the regulator?
Been thinking power regulator with an on/off/on spring loaded switch(s) mounted on the gauge panel under the dash.

Thanks..Bill

[Gary Lewis]

There's supposed to be a spring behind the door panel, as shown below with the red circle.  Perhaps yours doesn't have that and the big washer, 23370?  If I remember correctly the door panel goes between 23370 and the spring, and the spring keeps the window crank pushed into the cab and tries to center it so it doesn't wobble as much.

[scbill]

 All of that is missing, I know I would have put it back when I replaced the panel,
I may look in the fixit section next time I'm at Auto-Zone, or pull-a-part yard.

Lectric windows are appealing to me  if the regulator needs replacing, not but a couple $$ more than crankup.

Thanks.

[Steve83]

scbill wrote

Is there a fix for this, or do I need to replace the regulator?

Yes, the regulator is worn out.

scbill wrote

Been thinking power regulator...

That's a good upgrade, for many reasons.  The biggest problem is the door panels - replacements are not made AFAIK, and usable used ones are like the hen's teeth of hen's teeth.  If you keep what you've got, you end up with holes where the cranks are now.  But I think that's also where the (larger) holes for the factory switches go.  The switch holes' position & shape is molded into the back of the panel.

scbill wrote

...switch(s) mounted on the gauge panel under the dash.

That simplifies the wiring & greatly reduces the resistance & problems in the circuits.  It also means you only need 2 switches instead of 3.

Gary Lewis wrote

...the spring keeps the window crank pushed into the cab and tries to center it so it doesn't wobble as much.

I always figured the washer reduced friction/noise/wear between the handle & panel; and the spring (or later, foam ring) kept the panel pushed out against the handle so the shaft didn't show, and there was less airflow/dustflow there.