new gas tank

[Jcris]

I want to replace the existing (stock 17 or 19 gallon side mount)) gas tank on a 1986 F150. We bought a 36 gallon that will need to be installed in the area of the spare tire underneath the bed. The bed has been removed. The exhaust pipe can be rerouted to exit the side. That will leave plenty of space between
the frame rails to mount it. Whats the best way to mount the tank and at what level? The new tank came with some standoffs but I'm unsure how to attach them to the tank. Can the fuel pump connector be extended by just splicing in some wire? Where best to relocate the fill tubing? What issues am I missing?
What about flushing the existing fuel lines? I took a quick look and they appear to be some sort of flexible tubing. Not metallic which surprised me. Are they worth reusing? Our goal is to get the new tank mounted and functional so we can begin to use the truck and also figure out what else needs to be done.
This truck is a project for sure but the motor and trans seem solid, so were going to give it a go.
Thanks,
Jcris

[Gary Lewis]

What tank did you get.  Spectra makes one that is sold by several of the vendors, like LMC.

And, Spectra has a kit called LO-26D that is meant to adapt that tank to the truck.  For instance, it includes: sending unit lock ring; copper tubing to extend the sending unit's pickup; spacers and bolts to retain the tank using the original straps; and wire.

As for the existing lines, I'd use them as is.  They connect very solidly to the tank and don't rust, so shouldn't be a problem.  However, if the truck has been sitting a long time you may want to flush them.  The gas should have drained back into the tank and not turned to varnish in the lines, but you never know.

[Jcris]

Thanks Gary,
I'll have to check on the tank. It did come with an install kit that has spacers and bolts. I did not see any straps. Thanks for the tip on the fuel lines. I'll flush them and re-use. What about the injectors and fuel rail? I've no idea whether they have ever been cleaned. Probably best to have them cleaned professionally? The rail appears rusty in spots on the outside so I'm thinking maybe replace?
I'll send along some pictures when I can.
Thanks so very much,
Jcris

[Gary Lewis]

I really don't know about cleaning injectors, but would like to as I'll be EFI'ing Big Blue and Dad's truck and want to know if I can re-use the injectors I already have.  So maybe someone else can tell us how to clean injectors?

Ditto on the rails.  Those I have do have some spots on the outside, but I don't think the insides are bad.  Anyone know how to tell?

As for the tank straps, the spacers and bolts are so you can use the original straps.

[Jcris]

FWIW,
After a brief search online it seems a diy approach gets limited results. For $20-$25 each, the whole injector can be "rebuilt" by a business that specializes  . I've also seen places on ebay that will do it for $9 each. I've had this type of work done before by a place, http://rcfuelinjection.com and the injectors looked new on return. But they want $24 each ($192). I'm going to see if I can do better on the pricing.
Regards,
Jcris

[Dyn Blin]

Whenever I've purchased a car or bike with EFI and any appreciable miles (that would be all of them) the  2nd  item I've prioritized to take it to "stage zero" (after fluids and filters) has been to pull the injectors and send them out for test, service and rebuild.    It's likely overkill, but it's eliminated a single point of failure in a cylinder.  

When you think about the mileage, unknown levels of past fuel quality, aging petrol tanks and simply the historic volume passing though those injectors, it seems worthwhile to set a new baseline.  The service includes a cleaning test and rebuild if necessary.  A professional service is the best way to to not only clean the passages, descale the tips but clear the filter er, too (an exercise that's generally beyond  amateur techniques). A professional service also has sources to rebuild that an average DIY'er may not.

I've patronized a business about an hour north of  my hometown in Idaho.  Gary- if you're interested I'll email you details to investigate.  He used to have a specific list of injector types he would service, but I see his site has been broadened since I used him last a year or so ago.

[Gary Lewis]

I think you guys have good advice.  I believe I'll send the injectors out and have them rebuilt so I know they are good.  Thanks for the recommendations on where to send them.  

[Jcris]

Hello Gary,
If you haven't sent your injectors out yet, here's another place to look at:http://cruzinperformance.com
When I was into BMW's RC and Cruzin were well known and very reputable. Cruzin is $20 per injector where as RC is $24. Not a lot but it all adds up.
Regards,
Jcris

[Gary Lewis]

I haven't sent them, and now I'm glad that I haven't as I found this in Cruzin's FAQ's:

What is the "shelf life" of injectors that have been cleaned?
Whether they have been cleaned or not, injectors do not like to sit for extended periods of time without being run. After servicing the injectors, they are flushed with a paraffin-based oil to protect them during short term storage. If you will not be installing and running the injectors for several months, it's recommended that the injectors not be serviced until you are close to being ready to install and run them.

Since I'm probably a year from using them I'm thinking I'd better wait.  But, I also found this, and since I have two sets of 8 injectors, maybe I can get them "matched":

Can you "flow match" or "balance" my injectors?
The flow rate of the injectors cannot be changed or adjusted. In order to make a balanced or matched set of injectors, you need to start with more injectors than are needed for your application. All of the injectors would be cleaned and tested. Then, the injectors that flow closest to each other are grouped in sets according to their flow. This, in essence, makes a "matched" set.

[Jcris]

Yeah I'd wait as well. Regarding flow matching, ideally they would all flow the exact same amount as I'm sure you are aware. Rebuilding them will get you closer but as stated by Cruzin , matching all 8 exactly would more than likely involve more injectors. I wonder how well matched injectors are brand new? I guess if you're dealing with a high end product the performance of each injector would be identical. But, I think for our purposes getting them "closer" is all we really need.
BTW, this is an excellent community of enthusiasts.
Jcris

[85lebaront2]

Gary, do you need some more 24#/hr injectors? I think I have 8 spares.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Bill, but I have the 8 from Huck and 8 from the F450 that Jim parted out.  So, assuming all of those are good then I have enough.

However, I wonder if 24# injectors will be enough for Dad's engine?

[85lebaront2]

If you need larger ones, when I was working on the 1995 to 1996 454 Chevy conversion, the GM EFI guru told him to order the Ford Racing 30#/hr injectors. He said they were positively the best you could buy. Unfortunately Ford seems to have discontinued them. Summit is the distributor for Ford Racing parts. I ended up going with 47#/hr ones. Pay attention to the connectors also, the originals are Bosch connectors, the ones we got for the 454 and mine are USCAR connectors and I had to change both harnesses to them.

[Gary Lewis]

I can't imagine Big Blue needing anything more than the stock 24# injectors.  Other than the Eddy cam, which is very mild, and a slight compression boost, it'll be stock.

But I'll have to think about Dad's when the time comes.  Thanks for the tip.

However, will I be able to use your setup, or tune, with smaller injectors?  Is there a parameter where you tell it what size injectors it has?

[85lebaront2]

Yes, there are several parameters, engine size (for one cylinder) injector size and then there are various parameters for timing based on voltage etc. Adam will walk you through most of it like he did me.