ball joints replacement Dana 44 HD- PS Axle SHaft?

[Bulletproof250]

OK I've read the documentation and I've already removed the knuckle on the DS. What do I have to do to remove the axle shaft from the PS? From what I have read, It seems like the the pivot bolt for the PS arm has to come out but I also see a slip-yoke with a boot over it, but before I did into the boot, Does the slip yoke release the axle shaft through the knuckle? i have already removed the spindle.



Any clarification would be great

Thanks to all of you that contribute here.

Harrison is staying happy

[ArdWrknTrk]

Does your year have the bolt on shaft retainer or does it have the C-clip inside the pumpkin?

There's a Blue Oval tech article that shows the difference.    

Bolt in is (somewhat) accessable.  If you have a C-clip retained axle you have to separate the pinion carrier from the beam in order to R&R the clip.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Here's a thread with some discussion.  https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td80945|a80968
Bob seems to think the three bolt retainer was only until 1983.

There are parts breakdowns in the documentation.
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/axles--differentials.html

[Bulletproof250]

Looks like mine has the C-Clip inside the pumpkin. Buuuuut, Can I just take apart the shaft at the slip joint on the DS? I was about the cut the Boot off to find out but figured there were some other experts here.

Nothing SpecialReply | Threaded | More Dec 03, 2020; 9:46pmRe: Dana 44 Axle Shaft Removal?

Wrote:
"If all you're doing is the ball joints you don't need to take the inner axle out of the diff.  Just do the same things you'd do on the driver's side.  But before you slide the axle out you need to removed the "hose clamp" on the rubber boot that's on the axle between the center U-joint and the knuckle.  After that the axle might not slide out freely because the rubber boot might be stuck to it.  But you ought to be able to get the rubber loose from the axle shaft without too much trouble, and then it'll slide out just like the driver's side."

[ArdWrknTrk]

To be clear... we're talking about the PS (right) shaft.

Have the boot and clamps in hand before you release it at the splines.

And be sure the seal at the differential is good. You don't want to have to go through all this again.

[Bulletproof250]

Thanks Jim,

Yes, this is regarding the PS (Right), and I've since gotten the axle shaft out.  I've marked the shaft and the mating slip joint to be sure it goes back together with the same indexing.

Now, can anyone tell me about the spindle bearings, and which PNs (aftermarket) I should order? Am I seeing this correctly the needle/rollers bearings are different for each side?

Hmmmmm.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The inner and outer spindle bearings are different.
They are the same side to side.

Timken set 37 on the inside and set 45 for the outside.
You also need to change the hub seals when you pull the races.  (Spicer 40709) National 4250

[Bulletproof250]

I think that I meant the axle shaft bearing inside the spindle,

[ArdWrknTrk]

   

So 3123 in this exploded view?

[Bulletproof250]

Jim, it's part 3123, but I think I have the Dana 44HD  it looks similar the D50 Beams

[ArdWrknTrk]

With Ford EVERY inner spindle bearing they ever used on every car and truck ever produced has the same basic part number.

(Just had this with Gary last night)

Illustrations are entirely generic.

You need to go to the MPC to get an actual part# for your application.

But at least we are confirmed that this is the right bearing, in the right location?

[Bulletproof250]

Thanks Jim,

I'll start my search through the Documentation on this site.

[Bulletproof250]

Thanks ahead for all of the good info I've received already.

I am nearing the last of the procurement stage in this project and may in-fact have all of the needed parts, although...

The seal between the axle shaft and the knuckle. The one that is on there has a metal body, encapsulated by the rubber making the seal the 2 that I received from my local parts store, looks to be rubber only. has something changed or have I gotten the wrong parts?

I think that I have the 1175 for the image above, however I cant grasp the replacement part for the 3C132,  and since I have a Dana 44HD, I'm not sure if I'm looking for the right part.

Any insight to solving this is greatly appreciated,