Zinc oil

[Lima Delta]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Why would your engine sit months between break in and installation?
Just pull the distributor and prime the oiling system before startup.

Sorry for the confusion - I won't be able to do a break-in run until after I pull the other engine and swap over the intake, carb and accessories. In the meantime I'm planning to store the rebuilt short block in a bag in my basement. That's why I was thinking the oil stabilizer might be a good idea cause I could coat the cylinder walls and rings during assembly and maybe help keep it from running back as much while it sits in storage.

I had been hoping to do the swap this spring, but realistically it doesn't look like I'll be able to make that happen before I have to start hauling feed for summer animals.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I don't think any of that would be concerning to me.
Keeping it in a trash bag is a good idea though.
That will help keep moisture laden air away from it, and that moisture from condensing on cold iron

[Rusty_S85]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I respectfully disagree with "overly clean an engine"
This is a new build.
There is no sludge in there now, and a good detergent package will keep it from getting that way.

I've used nothing but diesel oil since I installed this engine and it is clean as a whistle inside.
The oil pan gasket is leaking because it has cracked. I should have used a better one than the rebuilder supplied.

Even in a new engine the reduced detergent level in VR1 wouldnt allow the engine to get dirty if you change the oil at proper intervals.  Its just also save to use in older engines with some miles on them.  As far as being a new build I dont know I re read his post multiple times it sounds like this engine has some miles on it as he stated he has done a few oil changes already.

[Rusty_S85]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Rusty, he said "break in"...

I'm assuming that means 20 minutes at 2k for the cam and then a few dyno pulls until the rings seat and the bearings loosen up?

That's certainly enough to wash the assembly lube.

I get priming, just to see oil flowing out the pushrods.
But I don't think that is the situation here.

It would be I didnt see his mentioning that in the original post I thought we were talking about a motor that has already been broken in and was being used.

[Rusty_S85]

Lima Delta wrote

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Why would your engine sit months between break in and installation?
Just pull the distributor and prime the oiling system before startup.

Sorry for the confusion - I won't be able to do a break-in run until after I pull the other engine and swap over the intake, carb and accessories. In the meantime I'm planning to store the rebuilt short block in a bag in my basement. That's why I was thinking the oil stabilizer might be a good idea cause I could coat the cylinder walls and rings during assembly and maybe help keep it from running back as much while it sits in storage.

I had been hoping to do the swap this spring, but realistically it doesn't look like I'll be able to make that happen before I have to start hauling feed for summer animals.

I dont know if I would go putting anything in the cylinders that are thick.  I think most people just spray some WD40 on the cylinders before assembly if they will run the engine soon or rub a little motor oil into the cylinder walls if not starting for a bit.  You dont want something that can build up to excessive level and hydro the motor.  I think for mine I will just be using some straight 10w30 motor oil and just give a couple pumps from my oiler in each cylinder before I put the heads on and rotate the engine through multiple revolutions to spread the oil along the cylinders and the rings.  This will help in my book lubricate the rings for that initial start and will quickly burn off by time the crank starts slinging oil on the cylinder walls.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I am at 7,500 OIC and my internals are spotless.
It is working for me, right now.
But I realized over the weekend that I'm overdue, so I am stopping at Wallyworld for a Motorcraft filter and whatever jug of CI oil is on sale this week.

There is always 2-stroke fogging oil.
You spray this through the intake until the engine dies.
So you can put your outboard away until the boat goes back in the water.
(Yes, I understand that 2-stroke outboards are thing of the past. But long term storage is long term storage)

Still, I wouldn't worry about a fresh engine in a bag.

[Rusty_S85]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I am at 7,500 OIC and my internals are spotless.
It is working for me, right now.
But I realized over the weekend that I'm overdue, so I am stopping at Wallyworld for a Motorcraft filter and whatever jug of CI oil is on sale this week.

There is always 2-stroke fogging oil.
You spray this through the intake until the engine dies.
So you can put your outboard away until the boat goes back in the water.
(Yes, I understand that 2-stroke outboards are thing of the past. But long term storage is long term storage)

Still, I wouldn't worry about a fresh engine in a bag.

I wouldnt either.  For my 306 build I will be using regular old Valvoline 10w30 for the initial break in of 500 miles then I will switch to full synthetic 10w30 Valvoline at the next oil change.  Only vehicle I ever ran VR1 in is my '56 being a solid lift flat tappet.  For my truck I ran cheap standard grade Valvoline in my flat tappet engine.

I personally just like a little oil on the cylinder walls for first start up just to prevent any kind of scuffing/scratching of the cylinders from dry rings.  Why I wouldnt use some thick oil just regular motor oil something to just coat the cylinders lightly which would be no different than the crank throwing oil on the cylinders while running.

[Lima Delta]

Rusty_S85 wrote

I dont know if I would go putting anything in the cylinders that are thick.  I think most people just spray some WD40 on the cylinders before assembly if they will run the engine soon or rub a little motor oil into the cylinder walls if not starting for a bit.

WD40 works great while work is in progress, but it's pretty thin and part solvent. I wouldn't trust it for too long. As far as I know it's standard practice to soak the rings and rub the bores down with a light coat of whatever oil you'll be using in the engine if it will be started shortly after being built. I have talked to one or two guys who said they have sometimes used some assembly lube on the rings if they know the engine will sit.
That Lucas brand oil stabilizer though, it's interesting because while it is quite thick on its own, when it gets mixed into engine oil it doesn't really make the oil noticeably any thicker but it does make it stickier. I've been adding it 1:4 with conventional penzoil 10w30 with every oil change into my old HO motor for several years now. Never noticed any changes like slower cranking as though I was running a heavier oil. I have noticed slightly better oil pressure, less oil consumption and slower leaking at the rear main though (engine has just over 300K original kms on it). As far as lubricating this engine build goes however, I'm not planning to mix it nearly so rich - more like 1:16.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, you share a name with the product, but I wouldn't want anything "sticky" above the rings.

Think of how many engines that have been parked for years and restart without engine damage...

And they don't have any cylinder lube except what got scraped off when they were parked.

[Lima Delta]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Think of how many engines that have been parked for years and restart without engine damage...

Well, that's true enough. Thanks.

[Rusty_S85]

Lima Delta wrote

Rusty_S85 wrote

I dont know if I would go putting anything in the cylinders that are thick.  I think most people just spray some WD40 on the cylinders before assembly if they will run the engine soon or rub a little motor oil into the cylinder walls if not starting for a bit.

WD40 works great while work is in progress, but it's pretty thin and part solvent. I wouldn't trust it for too long. As far as I know it's standard practice to soak the rings and rub the bores down with a light coat of whatever oil you'll be using in the engine if it will be started shortly after being built. I have talked to one or two guys who said they have sometimes used some assembly lube on the rings if they know the engine will sit.
That Lucas brand oil stabilizer though, it's interesting because while it is quite thick on its own, when it gets mixed into engine oil it doesn't really make the oil noticeably any thicker but it does make it stickier. I've been adding it 1:4 with conventional penzoil 10w30 with every oil change into my old HO motor for several years now. Never noticed any changes like slower cranking as though I was running a heavier oil. I have noticed slightly better oil pressure, less oil consumption and slower leaking at the rear main though (engine has just over 300K original kms on it). As far as lubricating this engine build goes however, I'm not planning to mix it nearly so rich - more like 1:16.

Correct, the WD40 is if you are sure you will be running the engine with in the month of assembly.  If it will sit its better to wipe some 10w30 motor oil onto the cylinders or put a couple squirts from a oiler into each cylinder and rotate the engine over multiple revolutions by hand to spread the oil around.

You just dont want anything thick or sticky above as it will prevent the rings from properly seating in which is why WD40 for something that will be started up fairly quick or regular 10w30 motor oil if it will sit for a bit.

For me I am on the fence on if I want to run break in oil or just regular motor oil.  My engine is a roller cam build so I dont really need the high zinc but from the reading ive done over the years it seems a break in oil is best for a fresh engine regardless of cam type as it will help promote seating the rings in.

[rcarlisle]

OK, I wanna join in on an OIL thread.   My 81 has an auto zone crate 302.   Unknown miles but been in truck less than 2 years - I doubnt there are that many miles - this may the original oil ---ugh....  

I used to use Valvoline high mileage in my old junk.   Worked in my Olds Aurora with 210K miles on it.   But what to use in this newer engine?  The 0w 15s seem kinda thin and new school.

Would you guys still recommend the Rotella T4 for this engine?  Seems cheap enough  15w-30 going into summer in NC?  highs in 90s but I probably won;t drive it that much in that hot weather.  

What say you?