They used the same printed circuit, but the tachometer themselves between gas and diesel are different.
Truck: 1981 F-150 Explorer / Engine: 300-6 California MCU Feedback System / Trans: T-18 - 4 speed / 2.75 Ford Rear Axle Open Diff.
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Thanks, Ralph. And I should have pointed out that the printed circuit has a PN, as do each of the gauges, as does the plastic of the cluster itself. So Ford did a lot of mixing and matching.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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This post was updated on .
Very interesting!
Every time I saw a "square design" cluster, I was concluding it was a 1980-86 F-Series, E-series or Bronco one. With your help, I now realize that I was wrong. This "square design" cluster continued at least until 1997, for the heavy truck, such as F-700. Like this eBay one (w-trip and w/o-tach, as Ralph pointed out earlier), supposedly for 1994-97 F-700. I notice that this version has its Oil and Charge gauges swapped for idiot lights. Should we call this a progress? Ok now, about the cluster with "trip and tach" I have in stock, how to determine if this is a Diesel or Gasoline one? Any advice? Thanks!
Jeff / 1984 F350 Crew Cab 4x4/5.8L w351 4V/ T18/ D50 4.10 front/ 8' bed.
Restored 2019-2022. Nicknamed «Big Brother 1984», due to its soooo-looong shape & nod to George Orwell's 1984 famous novel. |
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I think the charge light is better than the ammeter, but what is even better is a voltmeter. However, going to an idiot light for oil pressure gauge is a huge step backwards.
As for the tach, our page at Documentation/Electrical/Tachometers says: A 6000 RPM tach with E0TF-17B316-A is a gas tach, but may be either open or enclosed
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In reply to this post by BigBrother-84
The Medium duty had a transitioning period between body styles like the Light Duty and Super Duty did in 1997.
The last year for our 1980-1986 interiors in a medium duty truck was the 1999 F-/FT-900. The 1998/1999 F-750/F-850 were the new "Super Duty" style for example. As for the diesel tach, here is what one looks like.
Truck: 1981 F-150 Explorer / Engine: 300-6 California MCU Feedback System / Trans: T-18 - 4 speed / 2.75 Ford Rear Axle Open Diff.
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I believe that is correct. The 4500 and 4000 gasoline tach was for the Medium Duty trucks only. However ... I have heard of people using the Medium Duty gasoline tachs in our Pickups for use with the 300-6 with success. Never tried it myself though.
Truck: 1981 F-150 Explorer / Engine: 300-6 California MCU Feedback System / Trans: T-18 - 4 speed / 2.75 Ford Rear Axle Open Diff.
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Pretty sure that several of the guys on here have used the medium-duty tachs on their 300's, including David/1986F150Six and Jonathan/Ford F834.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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OK guys, I'm OK to conclude that my spare cluster should be compatible with Big Brother?
If so, I will probably put this cluster in Big Bro, since it has the million km odometer w/tripometer. Needs good cleaning, but was not expansive (paid it around 30$ USD at my local yard, 5 years ago). • But I will keep Big Bro's gauges, I got them separately, all NOS, while restoring. • I will put HiPo cool white LED bulbs without filter as of Gary's tests conclusion. I like how they look. Questions: • Can I transfer Big Bro's NOS gauges without issue in this "tripometer" cluster? • Big Bro's speedometer looks almost new, very clean. Do you think I can easily transfer its needle to the "tripometer" one? • The cluster transparent cover has some minor scratches. Any advice about a good product to polish and restore it?
Jeff / 1984 F350 Crew Cab 4x4/5.8L w351 4V/ T18/ D50 4.10 front/ 8' bed.
Restored 2019-2022. Nicknamed «Big Brother 1984», due to its soooo-looong shape & nod to George Orwell's 1984 famous novel. |
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Yes, you should be able to put the NOS gauges directly in. The only problem you might have is destroying one of the old gauges as the studs sometimes spin when you try to back the nut off, and that breaks a wire inside. So be careful. And clean the printed circuit with an eraser before running the nut down on it.
As for the speedo needle, I've transferred them on a tach but not a speedo. However the process should be the same. Just be careful - again. And plastic polish is your friend for that cover. However, you might be able to use the old one and drill a hole in it - carefully.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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