Window Regulator Motor

[Bruno2]

My son's 91 was having a passenger window issue. I assumed it was the gear pins. I have a donor door on hand so I pulled the motor out of it. The dimples had already been drilled out with the bolts exposed. Obviously it had been tampered with.  Pulled the motor and it was smoked on the pins so no free parts there. The snap ring was missing. Somebody has put the bubba rig on it.

We pulled the one with the issue from his truck. Opened it up and the snap ring was missing. The dimples were drilled over so yes tampered with by a different bubba.  Bubba doesnt seem to own a set of snap ring pliers.

There was anything wrong with it. The pins were new. I inspected it, but found no issues.  We plugged it in and it operated fine. We out it back together and tge window functions fine . My boy said tge bolts holding it on were not tight.  Maybe the bolts were loose and causing the problem. We shall see.

[Gary Lewis]

Bubba sure gets around.  

But the bolts being loose can cause problems with the alignment of the mechanism.  Those motors are just barely adequate when new, so it doesn't take much to stop them.

By the way, is James still working out of his garage?  May have a BW1345 for him to go through.

[Bruno2]

I think he is. If there isnt a rush on it Scotty can do it on the side. He is the guy that did your ZF.

[Gary Lewis]

There won't be a rush.  Its the one in Big Blue, and when I pull him down for EFI and that ZF I want the 1345 refreshed and the mod added to the oil pump arm.  Do you know if he does the mod?

[Bruno2]

I thought that was just on the 1356? Let me check.  Even if he doesn't we can. It's just tacking a piece of rod or a cut off bolt the end of the pump arm where it fits in the slot.

[Gary Lewis]

Jonathan says it is for both 1345's and 1356's.  Yes, I can easily add the rod to the end.  But, I'd need to go down and pick it up, bring it back and tack it, then take it back.  Easy to do, just have to coord w/Scotty.  And, measure how large the rod should be.

[Bruno2]

Did a little reading and yes the 1345 pump assembly is identical to the 1356. So yes it does need it. There is a welding rig down there. It may be possible to get them to do it there. It will just take a little splaining.

[Gary Lewis]

I can take a pic with the t-case and show him what's needed.

Hard to believe BW didn't do that.  So simple.

[Ford F834]

Gary, it is amazing to me that the window regulator motors are so weak. Jan and I pulled one at the junkyard for his ‘86 and we were commenting that it was similar in size to the starter on most European cars... yet it has difficulty lifting a piece of window glass! 😓

I also fond it odd and disappointing that Borg Warner designed that pump anchor the way they did on the 1345... and even repeated the mistake with the 1356. I guess they lasted plenty long enough in most instances,  but it seems like such an obvious problem point and so easy to remedy...

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, the window motors are just wimps. Just barely able to lift that glass when new, and when the window runs get hard, the grease runs out, etc they just don't do the job. But, I still think I'm going back electric on Dad's truck. However, it might be novel to have cranks as most kids have never used them. So, ......

As for the transfer case, it is such a simple fix that it really should have been standard. Sharp edges of hard metal against soft metal is not a good idea.

[Steve83]

None of the early window motors I've pulled (probably dozens) had a snap-ring; even those that were obviously original.  And I usually leave it off of the later motors that I swap into older trucks - the later motors are smaller & stronger, but use the same connector.  Their middle mounting bolt is shifted outward ~3/16", so I either leave that bolt out or slot the regulator hole.