So I'm a bit bored at work and trying to stir up conversation. I oredered weatherstripping kit for Walter. All but the vents and windshield/backglass.
Which parts to begin? I would really like to secure the windows. They rattle and get caught going up and down. Thinking of starting there. My door panels are loose so getting them off and on isn't a big deal either. If I do window runs first, then the dew sweepers? Or sweepers then the channels? I'll have to chip all of it out as I go - it's all dry except vent frames. I wonder if they have been replaced already. Figure the big seals last. I've watched vids and searched here. Anything I need to know to make it easier or things that are terribly hard?
Randy
Mt. Airy, NC 81 F-150 STYLESIDE regular cab 2wd. 302 Auto Zone crate. 5 spd M5od-R2 |
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It isn't all that hard. As you said, the window seals will have to be broken out if they are hard, like mine were. but once out the new ones go in pretty easily.
On the sweeps, or dew seals as you called them, put the new ones in place by using the stud sticking out to position each one. Then drill holes through the door panels and secure them with pop rivets backed with washers to spread the load. Don't try to staple them 'cause the panels are now much harder than when they were new and they may crack - mine did. I'd do the window seals and sweeps, then do the door gaskets. You'll be pleasantly surprised how much quieter the truck is.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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And while you have the door panels off, lubricate the locking mechanisms and apply some sound deadener to the door panels.
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Good idea on inside door work! I will lube the locks.
Holding off on sound deadener til I can get the speakers and do that as part of the radio project. The fasteners that hold door panel are pretty work and door panels pop out easily. Leaving that also til I am done with inside door. Then a good set to hold it all in. And Gary - I will be happy to NOT have the wind at my elbow. And to not worry that the windows are going to bust from rattling in the channels. It's pretty awful now. Everyone takes a different route in a resto job. The PO did the major mechanical and that makes this truck a pleasure and a blessing to have. I am trying to keep the truck ready to run as I do my little things. Having it running makes it more inspiring to keep going and get it fixed and keep it going. I will be done with "Gen 1" in a couple weeks. Then I can start refining on other things. So far, the projects have turned out small. The weatherstripping is going to be the biggest? project so far. The brake booster turned out to be a non-event.
Randy
Mt. Airy, NC 81 F-150 STYLESIDE regular cab 2wd. 302 Auto Zone crate. 5 spd M5od-R2 |
In reply to this post by rcarlisle
Just did this job on mine (with new door panels, but otherwise all the same parts):
http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/New-Weatherstripping-preventing-door-closure-td91392i20.html#a92754 I had trouble with the window guides... Still don't have them right (or rather, the alumninum tracks on the back inside of the door) but I at least got them, but with some cheating I made it work. Don't do what I did (removing the aluminum tracks) if you can avoid it. My vent seals were also in good shape... for whatever reason they don't seem to harden... at least mine didn't.
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Thanks for the link. I believe I have read that thread as well.
The window guides worry me. I think I read to remove a bunch of stuff in the shop manuals. Including the windows. Videos I've seen all show the window in place. ONe dude tried to get the window to help by rolling it up and down. Not sure how much help he got. I hope to be starting on it this evening.
Randy
Mt. Airy, NC 81 F-150 STYLESIDE regular cab 2wd. 302 Auto Zone crate. 5 spd M5od-R2 |
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In reply to this post by ratdude747
In addition to lubing the lock, at the much appreciated recommendation of those on this forum I sprayed some silicon grease in the new track seals and it made a big difference. Have done it a couple times since installing them.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
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In reply to this post by rcarlisle
I'd definitely take the window out. Once you get a feel for where to rotate it and when, it won't take you long at all.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
2 hours to do driver's side with glass in place. I figured out a way to get the window channels in. Get them down the front and rear far enough to raise the window and pull them down. Chipping out the old took a while as well.
The door seals were not to tough to get out but around the top corners was tough. And I managed to crack my a pillar. The passenger side is already broken. Can you find those parts in new fresh plastic? Kinda like working with glass. But driver's side is quiet and I didn't do the extra piece around top yet. Not sure I'll need it? I'm happier. Another layer of the onion, as Gary says.
Randy
Mt. Airy, NC 81 F-150 STYLESIDE regular cab 2wd. 302 Auto Zone crate. 5 spd M5od-R2 |
Good work, doing the seals is a major improvement!
1985.5 F-150 XL Explorer standard cab 5.0 EFI AOD 4x4
Daily Driver. We call her Eunice the Ute. 1982 Bronco XLT Lariat 351W AOD 4x4 Code name Esperanza, or Espy to her friends. Please see my Project thread for the blow by blow. 1984 F-350 XL Centurion crew cab 460 T19 4x4 "Eylza Dual-little" |
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Yes, good work!
No, I don't think you can find the interior trim pieces new. Maybe NOS, but not new plastic. So all of it is brittle. But you can repair it and paint it and probably not see the problem.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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The passenger side has a big chunk missing, but probably going to put a grab handle there for the wife anyway. Not going to worry over those pieces I think. Is there a section in the docs on how to remove those easily? I found a couple screws but the seem to bed locked together somehow.
Randy
Mt. Airy, NC 81 F-150 STYLESIDE regular cab 2wd. 302 Auto Zone crate. 5 spd M5od-R2 |
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No, there's no section on removing the trim. Or, none I'm aware of. But I can't get to the lower screw w/o pulling the dash cover. And the A-pillar trim tucks under the trim above the door, if you have that, so it needs to be pulled first.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Ditto... Had to pull all of that when doing the weather stripping. The metal tracks between plastic sections can be a pain... not looking forward to when I finally fix my nightmare of a headliner .
Yep the dash pad must come out. But it's thankfully only 11 screws if I counted right. Just don't drop any down the defrost vents!
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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In reply to this post by rcarlisle
Good job on the weather stripping.
My doors were all apart, for years, and the kit I got had everything so I started with the vents window seals first so I could install them. Once the vent frame was installed I did the main window seals and the outer sweep, have not done the inners yet as I want to replace the door panels. The door seal was easy but had to trim is shorter NBD. I have not added the little rubber wind noise strip at the top corner and should as I do get some noise from there but its a truck not a Cady! I reused the rear glass rubber seal as it was in good shape and if I ever get a slider I will use the new seal with it. I did install the rear glass by myself but was not to hard but I have done rubber seal glass installs before on VW bugs. Front glass dose not use a rubber seal on our trucks it is Butyl tape from the factory and what I used. Others like to use glue that is used on the newer cars & trucks. Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1 81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100 |
I thought my vents are in pretty good shape. Funny though, when I took it around the block ( I do this EVERYTIME I do something LOL). The pass side is still windy, but NOW I have a whistle at the vent window. My AC isn't working, so that will be open when I drive it so really doesn't matter. And I could put a matchbook shim in there or something. I've seen that so many times before. It's like a normal add on.
I don't know when I'll get new door panels so I may or may not do those now. I do need new liners btw the panels and metal. May just cut some poly sheet. I still need speakers in there, too so I still have inner door work to do. I'm going to do both sides and see if it really needs the extra strip - may just hold off - as you said, it's a truck. Although I did mention to my wife last night we should get a power Lincoln Town Car seat...
Randy
Mt. Airy, NC 81 F-150 STYLESIDE regular cab 2wd. 302 Auto Zone crate. 5 spd M5od-R2 |
This post was updated on .
Being I am the only one that drives my truck, well maybe my son, the seat dose not move so no need to replace the seat with a power one LOL.
I cant remember if I added the plastic sheet to the door before the panel went on? Don't think I did because it was giving me fits trimming it and gave up. I did add "peel & stick" (roof sealer from hard ware store) it the outside door panel when I had the door open up. This makes the door a little more solid sounding when closing and helps the radio sound from the door speakers not so tinny. You don't need to do the full panel with the strips. I only did 2 passes and happy with the out came. Only other thing I might do when panel is off is to get cups or buckets that the speakers fit in and then into the door. They keep water off the back side of the speaker and help the sound go into the cab and not the inner door. Dave ---- Forgot, on the AC, mine just stopped working and need to fix before it gets hot here. If you can find a non-AC truck and pull the kick panels off for your truck you just need to pull yours off, undo the 4 screws holding the metal blank off plate in place and add the non-AC kick panels. My truck did not have AC so it had the vents in place and not knowing when I was going to get my AC working I kept them. The AC parts came from my parts truck with a firewall swap. Well yesterday on the way home from work I opened them and with the door glass down was a nice drive home.
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1 81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100 |
I just want a new seat - I was looking at a Town Car on FB Mktplace when I said that. The old velour pillow seats. LOL. I'd also settle for a nice plain bench. My wife can drive a stick, but not sure she'll ever want to drive the truck. She has fun in her son's Roush Mustang though everything is close and tight. I wish I had his exhaust note on my truck.
That's all in "someday" pile. I want to get everything I've ordered done and see where the truck is then. That will be "Gen 1" or V1.0, whatever. About 2 more weeks and that will be it for a spell. I'll need to sell some things on ebay to gather more cash I guess.
Randy
Mt. Airy, NC 81 F-150 STYLESIDE regular cab 2wd. 302 Auto Zone crate. 5 spd M5od-R2 |
My wife can drive stick either.
I may if she wants to teach her on the truck, not my car as I got to much into the rebuilt trans & the clutch for her to hurt it. Truck clutch is easy to change if I have to and if she can hurt the NP435 then it was bad to start LOL. Now that I have the carb issues fixed, for now, I need to find & fix the oil leak and get the AC working again, then I think I am set for the summer. On my AC I don't know if I will send it out for evac and fix or just put more in it? Think 1 of the O-rings at the compressor fitting is bad as I see oil at that spot. Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1 81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100 |
I think I need to get into the dash and see what's going on with the cables - they operate like 40 y/o cables would, stiff and imprecise. PO says it just needs a charge - may have it checked when it gets warmer. And I don't drive the truck everyday, so we might make it a while.
My wife has short legs, not sure the clutch will ever be her friend in this truck. Her son's Mustang is pretty short throw on everything so she can drive it when he needs her to help move it around occasionally. And he used to borrow her Tucson and she'd drive the Mustang for a few days. But the truck is a whole other animal. I'm happy that so far, the driveline on this truck is trouble free (knock wood).
Randy
Mt. Airy, NC 81 F-150 STYLESIDE regular cab 2wd. 302 Auto Zone crate. 5 spd M5od-R2 |
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