Water pump

[Redneckedness]

Need some help! Was filling the radiator in sons truck when coolant started pouring out of the water pump weep hole. Took the water pump off and noticed coolant coming out of this bolt hole. Did i do something wrong?



Does that bolt hole go into the water jacket? And if so do i need to do anything to stop the coolant from coming out of it?

[85lebaront2]

Yes it does, when you install the new water pump (a) be sure the gaskets are in the correct order and orientation (b) be sure you have the backing plate installed and correctly oriented (c) use some RTV sealer on that one bolt, I personally like to put a light coating on all the long bolts so you won't get galvanic corrosion between the steel bolt and aluminum cover.

[ArdWrknTrk]

While I agree with Bill that I put sealant on all bolts, I use Loctite PST
It's an anerobic sealant specifically intended for things like this and doesn't end up as a bunch of rubber goop gluing the bolts in and filling the convolute weep passage on the back side of the timing case.

Having a clean and solid backing plate is critical as well.
When Gary got Huck (the half truck) it didn't take much to figure out why the casting was cracked and it had been overheating.

But the water pump weep hole in the bottom of the pulley snout can only be a bad seal, a bad bushing, or both.
I -personally- like TRW pumps. But if you're going reman then I guess it luck of the draw.
Don't get the later one intended for trucks with an oil cooler (Bill calls these a grenade) because the inlet is sized differently.

[85lebaront2]

I have had excellent luck with Autozone Duralast new pumps (lifetime warranty). They seem to do quite well and they will honor the warranty with no problems.

The latest pump version which came out in 1995 has larger bearings and a larger bolt circle, but still has the smaller inlet.

[ArdWrknTrk]

So, the larger bolt circle will fit a fan clutch with both sets of holes present, but as Gary noted only the '95 pulley will fit over the locating boss?

[Redneckedness]

Put a new pump in and put gasket sealer on the bolts. Unfortunately i did before hearing about the other sealer. Gonna try filling the radiator tonight or tomorrow. Have one more question. I pulled my shifter out of the top of the trans (t-19 4 speed)  and now i can get it back in but it wont shift. Not even sure the shifter is in the right place. It looks like the one On the left (bottom) needs to come back but not sure. I’ve tried to move them but they wont budge.

[Gary Lewis]

I've not pulled the shifter on one of these, but the factory shop manual section is here: Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/T-19.  It should help.

[Frank Wyatt]

The trans is in gear. You either need to get it in neutral or line up the shifter for the gear it is in. If it were me, and pushing the clutch pedal in doesn't allow for moving the shift rail to neutral, then I would line up the end of the shifter in the shift rail. If it isn't lined up correctly, it will not shift.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's not a big deal as long as you got the water pump sealed.
I just like PST because it cures without being a sticky mass of goo, and it comes off clean.

^^^ Follow Frank's good advice on reinserting the shifter.
You have a lot of leverage with it installed correctly.

[Redneckedness]

Thank you

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 3, 2020, at 9:59 AM, Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

 I've not pulled the shifter on one of these, but the factory shop manual section is here: Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/T-19.  It should help.

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NAML

[Redneckedness]

Okay, so if i understand you correctly, the left one does need to come back? If that is the case what is that in the slot and do i push it down with the shifter? 

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 3, 2020, at 10:20 AM, Frank Wyatt [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

 The trans is in gear. You either need to get it in neutral or line up the shifter for the gear it is in. If it were me, and pushing the clutch pedal in doesn't allow for moving the shift rail to neutral, then I would line up the end of the shifter in the shift rail. If it isn't lined up correctly, it will not shift.

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NAML

[Frank Wyatt]

Just line up the shifter in that shift rail and set the collar to hold the shifter in place and you should be OK. If the foam seal that surrounds the shifter and seals to the underside of the trans tunnel is in poor shape or missing then you should consider replacing it as it keeps fumes from coming in the cab through the shifter boot. It will also provide some sound deadening from the tans area as well.